Old cast iron column radiators flow return-urgent help

[rpm]

Have they been pressure tested?

I would do this first before going through everything else then finding leaks.

 

[stevetheplumber]

top botton opposite ends will give more output

 

[WHPES]

Would definitely say top flow bottom out for cast iron. Don't pipe both at the bottom. Any plumber worth his salt can make it neat by putting bends in the pipe to discretely drop it down behind the edge of the radiator.

Don't do bottom in, bottom out on cast iron.

 

[chris watkins]

These rads are not designed to work at 3 bar pressure which is the safety valve setting on your combi.
They have spent there lives so far in open vented systems with a head pressure of a floor or two i.e. 0.6 - 1bar.

If I were you I would be testing them first as SimonG suggested, then I would fit a safety valve with a lower setting to the system!

BTW - TBOE for the con's

 

[ShaunCorbs]

These rads are not designed to work at 3 bar pressure which is the safety valve setting on your combi.
They have spent there lives so far in open vented systems with a head pressure of a floor or two i.e. 0.6 - 1bar.

If I were you I would be testing them first as SimonG suggested, then I would fit a safety valve with a lower setting to the system!

BTW - TBOE for the con's

or run it on its own plate heat exchanger

 

[Elli]

Hi everyone,

need a bit of help again please with a couple of problems

So we had x20 radiators and we managed to get the cap-end/ valves off x18 of them to swop and do the bottom-bottom flow/ return.

Then problem 1 developed 🙁 Unfortunately- we managed to shear the valves clear of the remaining 2 using our big trusty steel pipe :S and the thread is now stuck inside. We have tried gently sawing to try and loosen/ hitting with a chisel and drilling but they won't budge. Does anyone know how to get these out other than praying for a miracle! We were going to try a steel merchant/ welder and see if they can drill them out?

Problem 2 is some of the fittings are in pretty rubbish condition so I don't know whether to get new. For some radiators its 1.5" opening and others its 1" so I was going to get these reducing bushes to fit our 15mm valves and put new stop ends on-are these the right type?



Also been advised to use LSX sealant when fitting the stop ends-is this the best one do you think?

Thanks-any advice much appreciated 🙂
Elli

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Hi everyone,

need a bit of help again please with a couple of problems

So we had x20 radiators and we managed to get the cap-end/ valves off x18 of them to swop and do the bottom-bottom flow/ return.

Then problem 1 developed 🙁 Unfortunately- we managed to shear the valves clear of the remaining 2 using our big trusty steel pipe :S and the thread is now stuck inside. We have tried gently sawing to try and loosen/ hitting with a chisel and drilling but they won't budge. Does anyone know how to get these out other than praying for a miracle! We were going to try a steel merchant/ welder and see if they can drill them out?

Problem 2 is some of the fittings are in pretty rubbish condition so I don't know whether to get new. For some radiators its 1.5" opening and others its 1" so I was going to get these reducing bushes to fit our 15mm valves and put new stop ends on-are these the right type?



Also been advised to use LSX sealant when fitting the stop ends-is this the best one do you think?

Thanks-any advice much appreciated 🙂
Elli

you will need to hack saw very carefully a slot out about 1/2 inch so you can then fold the snapped part inwards and boss white and hemp to put the new stop ends in

 

[Elli]

Fittings

JTM Brass flanged plug-threaded brass
1"
1.5"

JTM Brass hexagonal bush
1.5" to 0.5"
1" to 0.5"

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Fittings

JTM Brass flanged plug-threaded brass
1"
1.5"

JTM Brass hexagonal bush
1.5" to 0.5"
1" to 0.5"

i would try and get the blanks and bushes in steel if you can

 

[Elli]

so kind of like use the hacksaw to notch the thread that's stuck in then try and sprise it out?

 

[Elli]

on the JTM website if its described as galvanised is this steel? Are these more hard wearing?

thanks

 

[ShaunCorbs]

so kind of like use the hacksaw to notch the thread that's stuck in then try and sprise it out?

yes but dont cut too far (into rad threads) and cut it top and bottom and then either side and you should be able to work one out then the rest will be easy only prob it takes ages

 

[ShaunCorbs]

on the JTM website if its described as galvanised is this steel? Are these more hard wearing?

thanks

well in your post you said brass the only prob with brass is its soft so might cross thread

 

[Elli]

In galvanized they only have a 'galvanized hollow plug' that has like a square bit on the end-would this be ok?

 

[rpm]

so kind of like use the hacksaw to notch the thread that's stuck in then try and sprise it out?

My method is to two cuts one at 12 o clock and the second at 10 o clock, once that segment is out then hammer & chisel at 12 o clock towards 10 o clock and downwards, this should take the pressure off the fitting and it will come out by hand.

This is for a right is tight thread.

 

[joni os]

When the 10 to 12 piece is removed. I would hammer 1 towards 7 or 9 towards 3 which ever gave the most bite.

 

[rpm]

When the 10 to 12 piece is removed. I would hammer 1 towards 7 or 9 towards 3 which ever gave the most bite.

I wasn`t trying to undo it, more like folding it in towards the centre thus releasing the "grip".

 

[rpm]

Hi everyone, been advised to use LSX sealant when fitting the stop ends-is this the best one do you think?

Wouldn`t use LSX in this application.

 

[stevetheplumber]

These rads are not designed to work at 3 bar pressure which is the safety valve setting on your combi.
They have spent there lives so far in open vented systems with a head pressure of a floor or two i.e. 0.6 - 1bar.

If I were you I would be testing them first as SimonG suggested, then I would fit a safety valve with a lower setting to the system!

BTW - TBOE for the con's

pressure wont be a problem ive had cast rads with 8 floors on them all the big buildings in london originally had cast iron rads

 

[ShaunCorbs]

pressure wont be a problem ive had cast rads with 8 floors on them all the big buildings in london originally had cast iron rads

+1 what do you think the old boilers were made off/ construction