Rad valve replacement checklist

[Desi80]

what size valve is you get? as looks like 10mm but not much difference between

No, you're right, I got a 15mm, it wasn't something I thought to check and assumed there was only one size. Live and learn 🙂

 

[ShaunCorbs]

No, you're right, I got a 15mm, it wasn't something I thought to check and assumed there was only one size. Live and learn 🙂

should be 10mm

if you could and havent got on already on your system you could put one of these on

Angled Radiator Valve & Drain Off 10mm x ½" | Manual Valves | NoLinkingToThis

if you already have

this one is fine

Angled Radiator Valve Chrome 10mm x ½" | Manual Valves | NoLinkingToThis

 

[Desi80]

Cheers Shaun, looks like I've got drain offs on pretty much all the rads so I'll go with the second one.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Cheers Shaun, looks like I've got drain offs on pretty much all the rads so I'll go with the second one.

That's good you would be surprised how many don't have drain offs 🙂

 

[plumben]

That's good you would be surprised how many don't have drain offs 🙂

The boiler job I'm on now the only drain off is screwed into the top of the rad

 

[Desi80]

Well it wasn't 10mm either.

Tried to do another quick swap but didn't realise the system had re pressurised. If the fill loop is closed how can water be entering the system?

I turned the stopcock off last night after draining some water as an experiment and it stayed at 0 till I opened the stopcock again. After a few hours we're at 1 bar without the fill loop being touched.

This implies the fill loop valve is either not completely closed or broken right?

Trying to do a quick swap with 2 bar of pressure is not fun 🙂

 

[ShaunCorbs]

you sure ? did you measure the pipe when you took the valve off

and yes filling valve might be passing so best replace (you can tell by taking the braided hose off any much water come out/doesnt stop )

 

[Desi80]

you sure ? did you measure the pipe when you took the valve off

and yes filling valve might be passing so best replace (you can tell by taking the braided hose off any much water come out/doesnt stop )

Hehe, no I'm not sure. It was all a bit of a panic when I realized water was spurting 4ft up the wall 😉
All I know is the old nut didn't fit the new valve.

Unfortunately it's looking more likely I'm gonna have to do a drain down then to get the fill loop sorted. I assume they're compression fittings? I'll look into it.

I didn't take the 10mm valves back so when it's all emptied out I'll investigate properly.

If I'm installing a whole new valve what's the name of the plumber's mate stuff? Do I need that around the olive?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Hehe, no I'm not sure. It was all a bit of a panic when I realized water was spurting 4ft up the wall 😉
All I know is the old nut didn't fit the new valve.

Unfortunately it's looking more likely I'm gonna have to do a drain down then to get the fill loop sorted. I assume they're compression fittings? I'll look into it.

I didn't take the 10mm valves back so when it's all emptied out I'll investigate properly.

If I'm installing a whole new valve what's the name of the plumber's mate stuff? Do I need that around the olive?

😀 the old nut might have different threads to the new one (that could be one reason)

yes they are

http://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/combi-straight-filling-loop/46605

and boss white is one but theres a few

http://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/no-nonsense-gas-water-jointing-compound-300g/52109
Fernox LS-X Leak Sealer 50ml | Sealers & Compounds | NoLinkingToThis

and always worth it saves draining down later if it leaks a bit

 

[Desi80]

Yep that's the one, I thought it was blue instead of white.

So turn the stopcock off, connect hose to rad, open fill loop, open bleed valves, drain system.

Fit new fill loop, fit new valve, close drain off, close bleed valves, stopcock on, check fill loop and fill, bleed, fill, bleed etc.

Once I'm sure everything is ok, close both valves to a rad and drain some water out and buy or make something to add inhibitor. I haven't found a good way to add inhibitor yet.

Thanks for your time on this Shaun (and everyone!) it really helps.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Yep that's the one, I thought it was blue instead of white.

So turn the stopcock off, connect hose to rad, open fill loop, open bleed valves, drain system.

Fit new fill loop, fit new valve, close drain off, close bleed valves, stopcock on, check fill loop and fill, bleed, fill, bleed etc.

Once I'm sure everything is ok, close both valves to a rad and drain some water out and buy or make something to add inhibitor. I haven't found a good way to add inhibitor yet.

Thanks for your time on this Shaun (and everyone!) it really helps.

yes thats it

and you have two options

http://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/no-nonsense-central-heating-inhibitor-310ml-concentrate/33959

http://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/fernox-f1-express-central-heating-inhibitor-protector-265ml/13159

 

[tamz]

Stuff like this always makes me smile. 20 quid on petrol, plus the cost of the wrong stuff, hours of time, house needing redecorated and the wife probably not speaking........all to save paying a pro who would have had it done before you boiled the kettle.
How hard can it be lol.

 

[Desi80]

Right, the new valve is on and fill loop is replaced. System is up to 1 bar with nothing but water coming out of any rad. Don't want to jinx it but so far so good.

If everything is still fine tomorrow and there's no leaks or drop in pressure I'll add the inhibitor.

The thing that really screwed me over was the m******f****** b**** of an olive on that microbore. Took a while to work out a strategy to get it off without damaging the delicate pipe. (It was 10mm btw). I'd like to replace quite a few of the valves around the house but I'll have to find some with the same thread because I can't be going through getting all the olives off! 🙂

 

[Desi80]

Stuff like this always makes me smile. 20 quid on petrol, plus the cost of the wrong stuff, hours of time, house needing redecorated and the wife probably not speaking........all to save paying a pro who would have had it done before you boiled the kettle.
How hard can it be lol.

You say that but I've learnt a lot these past few days and would be comfortable having a go at doing a bathroom for example which I wouldn't have before. I also understand how my heating system works now when previously it was a bit of a vague blur.

Screwfix is not even half a mile from my house and I'd pop in there on the way back from somewhere. The stuff that wasn't suitable was returned and I now own some grips and 3 adjustable spanners I didn't have before.

What would you quote for going out to someone's place, draining down, replacing a rad valve and fill loop?

 

[tamz]

Lol. Take the old valve into a plumbers merchants and see what they have. Try the nut on the old valve. There are about 3 different sizes of 10mm fitting threads depending on the manu.

BTw start in PTS cos that old valve looks like a pts tradesave one.

 

[Desi80]

Good advice, thanks!

 

[tamz]

£80 quid cash inc materials (if i liked you) and you were local and it would have taken longer to find the valve in the van than it would have to do the job.

Plumbing like most things isn't really hard to do especially these days but knowing what to do and having the right gear kinda gives you the edge 😉

 

[Desi80]

Looks like an old tradesave valve. Might have an 8 x 10mm bullet in it.

I now understand what this comment means 😉

 

[tamz]

Yer learning lol

 

[Knappers]

£80 inc parts
(As long as they're on the van and I've been keeping it tidy enough to get to them)

I like that your positive about learning something, I would let you watch tho 🙂