Radiator on studs on top of bricks

[phloaw]

I need to hang a radiator (160cm wide, 50cm high, total weight around 35kg) via two brackets to a plasterboard wall.
The wall is external, so that it has studs (about 12mm deep and 50mm wide) behind the plasterboard and then bricks behind the studs.
I am lucky enough to have studs in correspondence of my brackets.

However, I was wondering whether the 12mm depth of the studs would be enough for the screws to bite, or if I should reach to the bricks behind the studs and fix the brackets to them.

If I can use the studs, how do I make sure that the screws go through the whole 12mm, given that this will be prevented by them hitting the bricks?

Thanks.

 

[SJB060685]

Use some plasterboard fixing screws and some feet for the rad?

 

[phloaw]

Use some plasterboard fixing screws and some feet for the rad?

I only know of feet for column rads, and this is not a column rad. Would you have any link for the feet? Thanks

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Have a look at corefix

 

[SJB060685]

I wouldn't know. Perhaps check with the manufacturer of your radiator. I have a similar size radiator on my bathroom plasterboard wall with feet. The brackets go through the plasterboard and hold it in place and the feet take the weight, although I didn't install it but closely watched the firm that installed my ASHP.

 

[phloaw]

Have a look at corefix

Thanks, I'm having a look. I understand these are for dot&dab, which I don't think is my case. Do you think those could help, anyway?

 

[Ben-gee]

In your case, I would screw through the battens and into the brick - just using normal brown plugs.

 

[phloaw]

In your case, I would screw through the battens and into the brick - just using normal brown plugs.

If I do that, should I avoid the battens and screw directly into bricks? I can do that by slightly shifting the radiator horizontally, which would be ok.

 

[steadyon]

Personally I'd go into the brick. 12 mm is less than 1/2" which I don't think is enough to support a large water filled radiator.

 

[Ben-gee]

Drill 7mm hole, through plasterboard and batten then into brick. This way the plasterboard won’t bend in and crack, as there is something solid between board and wall.
If you avoid the battens the plasterboard will get distorted and pulled towards the brick and you’ll get cracks.

 

[phloaw]

Thanks, I'm having a look. I understand these are for dot&dab, which I don't think is my case. Do you think those could help, anyway?

Sorry, I think I understand better now, and corefix looks quite relevant (although expensive) if I want to avoid battens. Thanks @ShaunCorbs

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Sorry, I think I understand better now, and corefix looks quite relevant (although expensive) if I want to avoid battens. Thanks @ShaunCorbs

There not that expensive around £21 for 24 for the 100mm version

 

[phloaw]

There not that expensive around £21 for 24 for the 100mm version

I need way less than 24, and probably my local shop won't sell them. I just found somebody on this forum (funny thing, in a thread involving you @ShaunCorbs 🙂) simulating a poorman's version of the corefix by using standard wall plugs inside the brick, and then a suitable length of copper pipe to make up the difference as to not crush the plasterboard. I think a nut recessed into the plasterboard could work to a similar effect. Any feedback on this option?

 

[WC1]

I would suggest rigifix over corefix. Corefix aren't bad but I think rigifix far superior. Toolstation carry them.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I need way less than 24, and probably my local shop won't sell them. I just found somebody on this forum (funny thing, in a thread involving you @ShaunCorbs 🙂) simulating a poorman's version of the corefix by using standard wall plugs inside the brick, and then a suitable length of copper pipe to make up the difference as to not crush the plasterboard. I think a nut recessed into the plasterboard could work to a similar effect. Any feedback on this option?

Works out cheaper than buying a 12 pack etc

Yep only alteration is I would use steel conduit and two washers bracket side as it won’t compress but as your distance isn’t that much and the extra labour upto you either is acceptable

 

[Ben-gee]

Am I missing something?

You have the battens where you need them, lucky!, so you don’t need corefix or any of the equivalents.
Please reread post 10.

 

[phloaw]

Am I missing something?

You have the battens where you need them, lucky!, so you don’t need corefix or any of the equivalents.
Please reread post 10.

To hit the battens I would need to place the radiator in an aesthetically sub-optimal position with respect to the window above it (i.e., not centered).

 

[Ben-gee]

I am lucky enough to have studs in correspondence of my brackets.

Ok fine, just working with what you told us in the first post

 

[phloaw]

I am lucky enough to have studs in correspondence of my brackets.

Ok fine, just working with what you told us in the first post

You're right, sorry. At that time I was still thinking of using the battens only to bear the load.

 

[JCplumb]

This is being really over-thought. Mark up an aesthetically optimal position and use 7mm holes and short lengths of copper tube as mentioned above, nothing's going to crack, the copper tube against the brick and rad brackets will do the job of holding it in place. I've got a rad about that size in my bedroom held up by 4 pigs tails, been there 15 years.

 

[Neil T]

I thought by the OPs question that the rad was standing on stud and bricks! ... seen worse in some houses 😄
Go with above and I'll go back to my breakfast

 

[phloaw]

This is being really over-thought. Mark up an aesthetically optimal position and use 7mm holes and short lengths of copper tube as mentioned above, nothing's going to crack, the copper tube against the brick and rad brackets will do the job of holding it in place. I've got a rad about that size in my bedroom held up by 4 pigs tails, been there 15 years.

Thanks. Yes, I overthink, especially when doing something new. Better safe than sorry 🙂