Radiator removal - making good pipework in wall

[MartinWF]

Hello everyone.

Could someone offer me some advice as to how to deal with the following, please?

I'm removing a radiator from an en-suite. It will not be replaced. There is speedfit micro bore behind it into the plasterwork and it may or may not be push fitted on to copper, I'm unable to see without removing quite a chunk of plasterboard. In these newish build houses I've learned that literally anything is possible when it comes to their construction and none of it is good.

I want to conceal the pipes behind the wall and plaster over, however, I'm nervous about using any connections at all that aren't soldered copper when it comes to in-wall situations.

Are my concerns unfounded in the face of modern plumbing tech?

I think I know what you might all say, but just wanted to be sure there isnt an easier option.

Many thanks

 

[Riley]

Soldered. Or better yet remove the pipe

 

[Rob Foster]

Do not leave dead legs if possible they are just stored up trouble. zTrace pipes back to main circuit and severe there
Rob Foster aka centralheatking

 

[Best]

Remove pipes back to where they connect to, if possible.
One of those jobs you will just have to evaluate when you are opening up the wall, unless you have pipes coming down stud wall from above and easy to sort now

 

[Burger]

As others have said, better to remove, as I doubt you’ll get soldered. If it’s an en-suite, my guess is they’ll come up from the floor somewhere unless it’s a bungalow?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Speedfit elbow and a piece of copper and a soldered cap end

 

[Burger]

Speedfit elbow and a piece of copper and a soldered cap end

I don’t think he wants any fittings behind wall unless soldered, which a speed fit elbow would be.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I don’t think he wants any fittings behind wall unless soldered, which a speed fit elbow would be.

Tough there’s already fittings in there / under floors

It’s sither that or rip a ceiling down to find the main runs

 

[Burger]

Tough there’s already fittings in there / under floors

Good point. Thought under the floor might be in copper, but could just as easily be plastic.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Good point. Thought under the floor might be in copper, but could just as easily be plastic.

New build will be plastic esp if it’s a big site / developer

Floors will be glued down so that’s a no go

 

[Rob Foster]

New build will be plastic esp if it’s a big site / developer

Floors will be glued down so that’s a no go

ugh laminate flooring or tongue and grooved chip board the things nightmares are made of
centralheatking

 

[MartinWF]

Thanks guys.

The flooring is some kind of waterproof chipboard and pulling that up is going to be quite a big job to say the least.

There are 3 other radiators on the same floor of the house. How could I completely remove the pipe for the single rad without affecting the others, don't they all work on the same circuit, for want of a better term? As in, they are connected in serial, rather than a loop off the main for each rad. Thats how it looks from what I can see due to the direction of the inflow and outflow from the rad.

I've never removed anything from the system before, so I'm not familiar with the issues around doing so.

It's a 2005 new build by a big developer, so probably a lot of plastic. If only I knew then what I know now..

 

[Rob Foster]

Look to break into t & g chip board is dead easy...work out where the joists are...then use a claw hammer and just bash away ...in a tight area where you think the pipes are..dont use silly stuff like jigsaw, drills or circular saws because you will get a wire or a pipe. Once you have biffed out a decent hole and found out whats below then trim it all off with a circukar saw , square it off and when you are done make up a trap with similar thickness stuff, stick it down with ..silly cone ..easy
Centralheatking

 

[MartinWF]

Aye, all good Rob thanks. I might just have to youtube this project so everyone can have a chuckle at my blithering incompetence 😀

I've just realised also, that I can't avoid soldering as I'll have to do it for the new shower, so I might as well cut my teeth straight away and have a practice before I start the strip out..

I've got laco flux, some frys solder and a wrap around mat (and a fire extinguisher....). Just need to find a good torch.

On that note, can anyone recommend one that will last?

A baseline pro grade would be ideal, dont need bells and whistles, just solid quality. I can't stand tat, especially in terms of tools.

Thanks to everyone for the above. It's great learning all this stuff, I really enjoy the process of tackling these projects. Thanks for contributing.

 

[Rob Foster]

I think mine is Primus and I use Propane or occasionally
Map but that can be too hot.
The only downside is when the bottle is new and full when you use it upside down it can blow out as it gets used up then it stays in...centralheatking

 

[Burger]

Is your solder lead free? If not I'd recommend swapping for one that is.

Blow torches - I've only had rothenberger super fire 2 (think I'm on my second one - been doing this over 14 years) after I had a seivert one that lasted about a year. Bullfinch are supposed to be good as are turbotorches.

 

[MartinWF]

Is your solder lead free? If not I'd recommend swapping for one that is..

Yes it is. It has to be doesnt it, for potable water?

Will look into recommendations for torches, cheers.

 

[Burger]

Yes it is. It has to be doesnt it, for potable water?

Will look into recommendations for torches, cheers.

Yes it does, however just realised unsure on heating pipes.

 

[gmartine]

The SF 2 is the torch to get and what most of the pros use and can be had for around fifty quid or so. I bought a torch called a Dickie Dyer as a spare, not as good but certainly good enough for a DIY'er at around half the price. Use propane if you're not very experienced or used to MAP.

 

[Rob Foster]

Is your solder lead free? If not I'd recommend swapping for one that is.

Blow torches - I've only had rothenberger super fire 2 (think I'm on my second one - been doing this over 14 years) after I had a seivert one that lasted about a year. Bullfinch are supposed to be good as are turbotorches.

Because I am a 'mature' contributor...see another post..
is it just my age and experience that makes me think lead free solder goes not flow as nicely as the naughty stuff when used with
laco .? Rob Foster aka centralheatking
other stuff over the years...Bakers Blue, Everflux, and some crap liquid stuff from a diy shop when we were really desperate...and
never use a live match to get active flux out of the pot, which we did once...ugh ...the phosphours in the red end de activated the whole
lot ...like 100 + joints ...NOT but fat Frank I did not notice

 

[Burger]

Because I am a 'mature' contributor...see another post..
is it just my age and experience that makes me think lead free solder goes not flow as nicely as the naughty stuff when used with laco .?

Possibly, I have seen some joints I’ve done (coz that’s what we are provided with) where it runs quicker than Usain Bolt. 😛

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Because I am a 'mature' contributor...see another post..
is it just my age and experience that makes me think lead free solder goes not flow as nicely as the naughty stuff when used with
laco .? Rob Foster aka centralheatking
other stuff over the years...Bakers Blue, Everflux, and some crap liquid stuff from a diy shop when we were really desperate...and
never use a live match to get active flux out of the pot, which we did once...ugh ...the phosphours in the red end de activated the whole
lot ...like 100 + joints ...NOT but fat Frank I did not notice

Takes more heat I find

 

[Best]

Leaded solder melts at lower temperature and remains melted longer. Much easier to wipe the lead solder joints.
Definitely flows better in my opinion.