Ravenheat 85 (T) csi - fires up then goes off

[beesley121]

Hi guys,

got it a ravenheat 85(T) csi that fire up in HW mode, goes to full burn then shuts down immediately. I've linked out the air pressure switch and it does exactly the same. I'm thinking this could be the pcb? Anyone had a similar issue

 

[Ermintrude]

Overheat ? Hex is scaled up? Remove stat from pipe and TEST

 

[southcoastboile]

Does it lock out or just cut in and out?

 

[IDCHAPPY]

Does it run fine in CH mode?

 

[kris]

I was gona say stat / heat exc . Its coming up to temp quick if partially blo ked. Measure resistance accross stat and temp if hot pipe at boiler ., disconnect . Are u having to wait for it to cool or reset it b4 it comes on again.

 

[beesley121]

Thanks for the replies guys,

i removed the overheat stat and it was still the same. It started getting worse, I now have to blow down the APS to get it to fire. CH wouldn't fire either, I did however get it to fire for a couple of mins on CH but then it went of. Room stat and programmer proved ok

Seems to be all over the place that's why I'm thinking pcb, at first it was cycling but now it locks out

 

[quality]

sounds like a fan to me

 

[bewsh]

Try giving the fan and venturi a good clean out. As the temperature inside the case increases, the pressure decreases, so if the fan is running slow or the venturi is a bit blocked, the aps could drop out.

 

[beesley121]

Try giving the fan and venturi a good clean out. As the temperature inside the case increases, the pressure decreases, so if the fan is running slow or the venturi is a bit blocked, the aps could drop out.

I've linked the aps out, it fires but does the same

 

[arran197]

Is it the CSI with the red Honeywell control board on the gas valve? If so there should be connections on the condense trap. Strip the wires back and connect them together. Try that.

If it hasn't got the red Honeywell control board or if that doesn't work, then it could well be the NTC sensor on the primary flow pipe. Or the connector plug to it.

 

[beesley121]

It's the csi wit the red pcb. It doesn't have a sepetate fan control board and gas valve doesn't have pcb either

 

[arran197]

Ok, so it should have the flame rectification lead going directly from the electrode to the pcb. These boilers are very temperamental, but generally the boards are fairly reliable for a cheap bit of tat. I'm reluctant to say it's the pcb as I haven't changed many compared to the amount of CSIs I've been to. But the NTC sensors are very common to fail. Having said that it does sound like this could be a pcb issue, but I know they are expensive. I would suggest trying an NTC first because they're inexpensive, then if that doesn't solve the issue, get a PCB.

 

[dazsl]

Had one the same the other week changed the pcb and kicks straight away phone raven heat there lads are not bad

 

[arran197]

Generally Ravenheat technical are a bit cocky, but they usually get it right.

 

[goz666]

I had similar a few months ago, rang ravenheat and he asked me to measure the resistance across the fan, I did and he said replace the fan. I didn't but instead changed the whole pilot assembly and injector. Worked great after, I have an old mate who as a matter of course removes the injector on all ravenheats and cleans off for five mins when he gets there in boiling water.

 

[arran197]

That's a good shout, but if it's the non Honeywell ignition pcb then it lights directly on to the burner.

 

[beesley121]

Changed pcb, fired first time