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DIYBlues

Hi Guys

Within the next week I'll be replacing my old copper cylinder. I have all the new parts and fittings required but there doesn't seem to be any fiber washers with the connectors. To make a good seal do I just use PTFE tape on the thread and tighten securely.

I have one blanking plate - Shower Flange - cold in - hot water draw off - and indirect heating in and out
(just incase it makes a difference)!!

Regards
DIYBlues
 
Can not think of any fiber washers you will need,you will either have male to compression fittings,just ptfe tape thread on fitting or you will have cylinder unions ,were you just use a smudging of jointing paste on metal face
Your blanking plate presume is immersion cap again,although you can get a fiber washer for this,just ptfs the thread,,take your time,you should be ok

imho
 
Some cylinder unions are designed for fiber washers, you get the type with a taper face which will seal with a wipe of paste and the other type have a flat face and should come with fiber washers
 
Some cylinder unions are designed for fiber washers, you get the type with a taper face which will seal with a wipe of paste and the other type have a flat face and should come with fiber washers

Never seen the ones with fiber washers

You do not get cylinder unions much in the South,the odd occasional one coming off the top of the cylinder,it's all female or male fittings to compression,I prefer the unions,used to have to bring them down form the North,as thats all I used there and give a better ,easier joint imho
 
I fact I can bring them, we are coming to London for a couple of days next week, tower bridge area 😉
 
Female Coupler.JPG

This will be the type of connectors I will be using. 1" x 22mm compression.
 
Union adaptor. copper x BSP union nut. Cone joint to BS 1010.these would be better yp68 yorkshire .yes i know about these and still live in south
 
PTS sell cylinder unions off the shelf down here (south west) Also BES have them in the catalogue, much better than trying to wrap PTFE around the cylinder thread with all that spray lagging getting in the way, only to ruin all the said lagging with your spanner tightening them up
 
in what way

I suppose I may be in a minority here, but i don't see handing out free advice to have-a-go Henry's very beneficial to our business as a whole. Especially in these trying times.

I'm probably gonna end up getting blasted here, but I see loads of moaning on here about cheap plumbers/gas installers pushing down prices, and then we're giving out advice concerning jobs that IMO frankly, shouldn't be attempted by DIYers.


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Which plumbing jobs should be attempted by DIY'ers?
Depends on the ability of the diyer, I guess, but IMO, not many! Especially not replacing a copper cylinder with no basic knowledge! But we all, have attempted other trades sometime in our life because we enjoy it, or just can't afford to pay someone.
 
TBServices... So you've never asked for advise from another to tackle a job you needed or wanted to carryout yourself?
A forum is place for either profesionals or those that do DIY to ask questions. If you don't have any intention of replying to peoples request for info you have that privalige.

Ps If you are in the Reading area plz give me your contact number as I might need a plumber in an emergency!!
 
DIYBlues, - agree, it is a free country for anyone to do those jobs that aren't regulated, & all of us have worked at tasks that are a bit beyond us. Plumbing is a fairly skilled job IMO, so I think a good plumber doing the work will be worth his few hours pay. It is madness for someone who can afford a plumber, to try & save a few quid, & probably cost themselves more trying to get the job done & also risking doing it badly wrong. Very few diyers know much about making joints or other basic plumbing stuff, but a lot think they do, hence the DIY mess in a lot of homes.
 
Please note some posts have been removed from this thread ,as off topic,if members wish to debate other topic's and issues,please start new thread or post in relevant existing thread

Please only post in a thread if you can contribute to issue concerned otherwise please just move on

Thank you
 
I PERSONALLY see a cylinder swap as too demanding a job to take on for a DIY enthusiast.

As a professional I can honestly say that we can spot a DIY job a mile off, and usually, when we're inevitably called in to rectify a problem, it's made a lot more difficult by the nature of the dodgy install and will generally end up costing the householder more in the long run.

People seem to have this attitude that somehow, because it's not heavily regulated to the extent of say, gas/electricity, plumbing is easy, but it's not. To do things the right way takes time and experience. Plumbing and tiling a new bath in wrong may not kill you, but it will probably wont last, and it might cost you a new ceiling at some point.


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Screwfix also do cylinder unions IIRC.

I'd be inclined to put full bore lever valves on the primary flow and return (WRAS approved, not cheap rubbish). As well as making future repairs quick and easy, this allows you to turn the heating back on while you work - keeps the family happy and lets you take your time and work in comfort with the rest of the cylinder install.

If you want to do the job properly, don't forget to balance the new cylinder with the central heating - i.e. throttle back its primary flow until its primary return temperature matches the design (radiator) return temperature. Check this when the system is up to temperature and the water in the cylinder is cold - hot taps running. I see plenty of systems where some rads take ages to get warm because the DHW takes most if the flow until it gets up to temperature. (This doesn't apply if you have an old three-port water priority system.)
 

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