Side Entry Ball Valves (2 of 2)

[solutions]

Thanks first of all,

Basically I will need to install wherever I go the extended arm version to prevent back flow and also too installing a double check valve ?

The type you will need to install is known as a part 2 valve. Looks like this

Or also like this

You dont need to also fit a dcv if using this valve.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Yes also correct as they can and do back syphon.
Why the extended arm? Are the cisterns a special shape or size?

yes plastic duo shells wider than normal so a normal part 2 the ball would be where the hole for the flush is

 

[Old Account]

Alright, talked enough ...

For me is clear now I will use part 2 including a double check valve instead isolation valve and I am on the safe side. That's all I wanted to know cheers all for the massive help

 

[Old Account]

But it's better to use a ISO valve before double check in case the double check is gone

 

[solutions]

yes plastic duo shells wider than normal so a normal part 2 the ball would be where the hole for the flush is

Might have to resort to a plastic part 2.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Might have to resort to a plastic part 2.

was thinking that can you get a decent one because the ones ive seen are crud but then my thinking is that can still back up water level will have to be a bit higher but could still happen

 

[jaydebruyne]

the position of where the water exits the valve...

 

[solutions]

was thinking that can you get a decent one because the ones ive seen are crud but then my thinking is that can still back up water level will have to be a bit higher but could still happen

Even if they have a piped overflow set too high the water level would normally spill over the syphon in to the pan before it reached the outlet on a part 2.

 

[Old Account]

I am so happy we do not have such issues in Germany we hardly have tanks in the loft ... Gravity dies out there ... Most of the time we have geberit frames for toilets ...

 

[jaydebruyne]

Alright, talked enough ...

For me is clear now I will use part 2 including a double check valve instead isolation valve and I am on the safe side. That's all I wanted to know cheers all for the massive help

You don't need a dcv if using a part 2

 

[Old Account]

Alright so if I use pt2 then it's already build in ?

 

[jaydebruyne]

whats the difference other than the looks if they both conform to bs1212

The position of where the water exits the valve

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Even if they have a piped overflow set too high the water level would normally spill over the syphon in to the pan before it reached the outlet on a part 2.

it does now with a part 1 thats what i couldn't understand

 

[Old Account]

What will happen in the to me if I use a wrong float valve ?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

The position of where the water exits the valve

so they could both back if the water goes high enough

 

[solutions]

I am so happy we do not have such issues in Germany we hardly have tanks in the loft ... Gravity dies out there ... Most of the time we have geberit frames for toilets ...

Yes and surface mounted issolators for almost everything and the little magnetic tile panels in the side of the bath to hide the floor gulley, loads of bathrooms I have been to in germany have the washing machine in them too. You do lots of things differently many of them better by design.

 

[jaydebruyne]

Alright so if I use pt2 then it's already build in ?

No, because the water exits above the valve, there is no chance of water reaching it and causing backflow if the valve fails..

 

[solutions]

it does now with a part 1 thats what i couldn't understand

Then just a case of the regs say so. Even if there is no potential contamination risk present.

 

[Old Account]

No, because the water exits above the valve, there is no chance of water reaching it and causing backflow if the valve fails..

True now I got it today a bit thick 🙂

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Then just a case of the regs say so. Even if there is no potential contamination risk present.

thnx