Solder ring fittings

[Bogart]

Not had need to do any solder ring fittings for a few years now. Recently have done a couple of lots last today where I, like previous attempt, could not get a ring of solder to appear. My technique is the same. The joints do not leak but I do like to see the solder ring as it gives me confidence in its integrity. Both sets of fittings are the same batch couyld they ebe faulty or has there been any change? though I doubt that. Oh by the way am using same gas torch as in previous years.

 

[townfanjon]

You should always see the solder ring pal , are you heating them long enough ?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Some don't normally the cheap ones where there isn't quite enough to see it quick dab of solder soon sorts it right out

 

[Best]

When they changed the solder from leaded to unleaded, it certainly made the solder ring Yorkshire type fittings different to solder.
I would suggest you put flux on the edge of fitting as you solder and use gentle heat and you should see a ring of solder appearing.
Add a little solder, with the solder wire end dipped in flux and that proves solder is melting and flowing

 

[king of pipes]

Burnish the end of the pipe with a cleaning pad only apply the flux to the pipe not inside the fitting use sparingly insert the pipe into the fitting apply a moderate heat with your blow torch untill you see the solder run apply a small amount of lead free solder if needed. Cheers kop

 

[Bogart]

You should always see the solder ring pal , are you heating them long enough ?

Not doing anything different to in the past. Oh and by the way are you going to Palace saturday?UTT

 

[Bogart]

The fittings are from a reputable source and I do put a dab of flux on the pipe, and the fitting maybe just an odd batch. Will get some others and have try with those.

 

[townfanjon]

The fittings are from a reputable source and I do put a dab of flux on the pipe, and the fitting maybe just an odd batch. Will get some others and have try with those.

Not sure on your word dab lol , put a light smear of flux all the way around the pipe .

Palace , nah ! I wouldnt mind but London away trips just take too long , my god I cant wait for this season pal .

 

[Best]

Too much heat usually applied IMO and this can tarnish the pipe, preventing the solder coming out.
The Surefire type torches are very powerful and more heat than the 15mm and 22mm fittings need.
Less heat and more flux.

 

[Old Account]

Burnish the end of the pipe with a cleaning pad only apply the flux to the pipe not inside the fitting use sparingly insert the pipe into the fitting apply a moderate heat with your blow torch untill you see the solder run apply a small amount of lead free solder if needed. Cheers kop

I am soldering exactly in the same technique and I hardly see my solder 🙂 it always looks like I will have leak but due to the capillary effect it sucks all the solder in and makes a proper neat seal.

 

[Chuck]

My technique is the same. The joints do not leak but I do like to see the solder ring as it gives me confidence in its integrity.

A traditional plumber's solder (70/30 Pb/Sn) melts in the range 185-250°C and has a working range of 240-330°C. A lead-free plumber's solder (99.3Sn/0.7Cu) melts at 227°C and has a working range of 300-450°C

So, if your previous technique was honed for 70/30 and in the lower end of the working range you will need a bit more heat (but don't go mad) with the lead-free fittings. Buy a few extra fittings and make up and pressure test some test joints.

Another possibility is that lead-free solders have a higher surface tension than traditional solders and hence form a less visible fillet, which could be the phenomenon you are seeing.

 

[Best]

If you want to experiment with soldering technique, then use end feed fittings. Cheaper and better.
For heating system pipework, you could use leaded solder and this will also obviously be cheaper and with the advantage of easier to do

 

[Old Account]

A traditional plumber's solder (70/30 Pb/Sn) melts in the range 185-250°C and has a working range of 240-330°C. A lead-free plumber's solder (99.3Sn/0.7Cu) melts at 227°C and has a working range of 300-450°C

So, if your previous technique was in the lower end of the working range you will need a bit more heat (but don't go mad) with the lead-free fittings. Buy a few extra fittings and make up and pressure test some test joints.

I have already done it many times to perfect my soldering. I was always unsure if I would have some leaks afterwards. I only use lead free solder can't work with leaded solder.

 

[Old Account]

If you want to experiment with soldering technique, then use end feed fittings. Cheaper and better.
For heating system pipework, you could use leaded solder and this will also obviously be cheaper and with the advantage of easier to do

That's what I only use I don't like much Yorkshire fittings.

 

[Chuck]

I have already done it many times to perfect my soldering. I was always unsure if I would have some leaks afterwards. I only use lead free solder can't work with leaded solder.

Yeah, sorry, I replied to the wrong post and clicked 'post' accidentally before finishing editing it.

I was trying to reply to Boggart's original post. For some reason the forum doesn't 'thread' posts for me so I find it easy to get confused and end up replying to the wrong person. Is this just me?

 

[Stigster]

Adding solder to a Yorkshire fitting surely defeats the purpose of using ISR fittings? I see people saying they always add solder to their Yorkshire for "Belt and Braces." Unless I'm forced to use some cheap solder ring fittings I'll always use end feed. If a person is end feeding their solder ring fittings why not save some money and just use end feed? Always baffles me a bit.

 

[Bogart]

Yes does seem odd that a fitting is designed so you need no extra solder then get recomedations to end feed it as well.🙂

 

[Ant Parkes]

Like Matchless.plumb, I can't work with leaded solder. Find lead free much easier to get that one touch soldering technique. Touch the back, hold the heat and see a tiny line of solder in the fitting.

My old man used to have a go, "they aren't soldered" but now loves 'em. haha.

I'd save my money tbf and just go end-feed all day every day.

 

[Best]

I am surprised anyone has difficulty with using leaded solder.
It stays melted longer (as needs less heat to melt).
The Yorkshire type fittings with solder ring inside them are all now unleaded obviously, but I find they can be a little crudely made and also dirty and glazed inside. The groove in them that holds the solder ring, can stop the capillary action on lower vertical joints. But adding solder is proof the joint is properly soldering and will add the extra solder the joint probably needs.
Yorkshire fittings are handy to solder in awkward places where you can just heat the fitting.
The solder tends to flow better with end feed fittings though.

 

[Old Account]

I am surprised anyone has difficulty with using leaded solder.
It stays melted longer (as needs less heat to melt).
The Yorkshire type fittings with solder ring inside them are all now unleaded obviously, but I find they can be a little crudely made and also dirty and glazed inside. The groove in them that holds the solder ring, can stop the capillary action on lower vertical joints. But adding solder is proof the joint is properly soldering and will add the extra solder the joint probably needs.
Yorkshire fittings are handy to solder in awkward places where you can just heat the fitting.
The solder tends to flow better with end feed fittings though.

I havent got difficulties to use leaded solder but I prefer using unleaded. I am just used to unleaded for years. I can feel the difference when using leaded solder.
It's just my preference that's all it is. I guess Yorkshire fittings are ideal when having an issue with stopping the water.