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Feb 20, 2021
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Stoke On Trent
Member Type
DIY or Homeowner
Hi,
For a while now one of my flush buttons on the toilet has started sticking down and so it just continues flushing. I can get it to pop back up by wiggling it around a bit but this is starting to get quite annoying.
Is there any part of the system I could easily replace myself that would fix this?

IMG_2232 (2).JPG
 
Is that a combined fill and flush valve? If thats the case you will need to change both.
 
I have never seen that sort of arrangement before. That is a flapper valve. If you disconnect the small tube from the valve in the middle will the toilet still fill? Just check the small tube doesn't have any holes in it. It looks like when the fill valve fills the cistern the tube may help to close the flush and lift the buttons back up.
 
This looks like yours.
Thank you, yes that definitely looks like mine, although I can't find anyone actually selling them or one like it?.
Should I disconnect the one end of that tube and just try flushing again to test it?
 
You could disconnect the tube, if the cistern fills ok you could just replace the flush valve. But I think I would replace both as you could well be in the same boat in the future. If you do, make sure you buy a fill valve with a brass tail.
 
So would this do the job?: Fluidmaster Button Cable Dual-Flush & Bottom Inlet - https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/fluidmaster-button-cable-dual-flush-bottom-inlet/58353
 
Hi all,
I've bought the new part and started dismantling the toilet. I've removed both the plastic nuts holding the cistern in place. But how do I undo the inlet valve? I've undone the plastic nut but the cistern will still not come loose. I've tried undoing the top metal nut but when I turn anti-clockwise it turns the whole metal assembly and lower metal nut too. Should I be holding the lower nut with grippers before undoing the upper nut?
Attached is a photo of the assembly.
 

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Thank you, I watched some videos too and realised I was turning it the wrong way as well. Why is everything reverse threaded in plumbing? Or is it just upside down?
There is a small rubber washer on the top of the inlet valve, not sure if I get a new one in the fluidmaster packet but I assume I need to make sure that it's put back in when I re-assemble (pic attached)?

Shall I remove all the old silicon on the bottom of the cistern where the holes are? I've seen that it shouldn't be necessary for silicon if you make a good seal?
 

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Your looking at it backwards

this needs replacing 15MM HEP20 WAVIN FLAT TAP CONNECTOR WASHERS-RUBBER (BAG OF 20) HX58/15 | eBay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15MM-HEP20-WAVIN-FLAT-TAP-CONNECTOR-WASHERS-RUBBER-BAG-OF-20-HX58-15/291994119470?hash=item43fc34ad2e:g:67cAAOSwtgFbkjzT

Or a pack of 1/2 fibre washers from screwfix

Fibre & Rubber Washers 210 Pcs - https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/fibre-rubber-washers-210-pcs/70837


yes clean all the old silicon off you don’t require it
Will these do the job too? - homebase is closer for me: Oracstar 1/2 inch Fibre Washer For Flexible Tap Connector - https://www.homebase.co.uk/oracstar-1-2-inch-fibre-washer-for-flexible-tap-connector/12821640.html
 
Remove the old one from the valve totally

find one that will fit where the old one was put the one that fits into a cup of water for 5 mins

after 5 mins put the fibre washer on the valve and install the fill valve and carry on
 
Thanks so much for your help. I've put the washer to soak now. IS it absolutely paramount I remove all the old silicon? some of it is really difficult to get off especially around the main outlet hole in the cistern.
 
Yes get as much as you can off
Ok I've fitted everything except for the lid and buttons and checked for leaks, I think I've got everything tight enough now as I can't see any drips now.
I've turned the water back on but the water level just keeps rising until it reaches the overflow pipe and flows down the back of the toilet bowl. Basically it doesn't stop filling, I assume I need to do something with the fill valve. I'll have another look at the instructions.
 
You were right the valve needed flushing out, there was small bits of grit in the valve!!. After cleaning out the valve worked perfectly.
The slight problem I've got now is whoever installed the toilet pan/bowl put it slightly too close to the wall so when I flush I'm getting a leak because the 2 plastic bolts holding the cistern down onto the bowl are at a slight angle sigh Its probably why they put so much silicon on, gggrrrrrr!
 
Did you replace the donut washer and bolts ?
Yep but only did them hand tight, theres no leak from the water just sat in the cistern only when I flush. Also I cant get the lid back on properly as the back of the cistern is at a very slight angle. Looks like I'm gonna have to dis-assemble it all re-align/retighten. I've had enough for today so will have to look at that another time.
 
Eg like this top right rubber

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/wc-close-coupling-kit-white/84958
Ah right, so theres supposed a rubber doughnut on the flush valve steam (which theres is) AND on the underside of the pan where the locknut is? I didnt replace the original one that was there.
 
Got another problem now, I've disassembled the toilet again. When I put the old rubber doughnut over the new lock nut its loose and I don't think it should be like. Basically the diameter of the hole in the doughnut is much bigger than the diameter of the locknut. The old lock nut was a bigger diametere but will not fit on the new flush valve thread.
Does this mean I need a new rubber doughnut of a different size? The kit came with one but it said use that on the upper side of the thread because I have a 2 1/4" outlet.
I've attached photos of old doughnut and new locknut. Also my toilet didn't have those metal brackets that come in those doughnut kits.
 

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If you can put the old one on the toilet centre it as best you can in the hole if you have any silicon grease or vaseline you can use a small amount to stop it moving around

then to the best of your ability centre the cistern over the hole and slowly lower it down onto the toilet being careful not to move the washer too much and then tighten the bolts up

try that might work if not you need a new foam or rubber donut
 
Now I can't get the inlet valve to thread onto the bottom of the fill valve, I did it before so not sure whats going on. Will just have to keep trying.
 

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