using fernox DS40

[ggman]

Hi
I am going to cleaning the CH system, 10 rads, all the ground one 5 are new, on first floor 4 radiators are 33 years old they still working, the system doesn’t leak, never need to top up.
The pipes are wednesbury ss metric BS4127, some copper pipe are also joined where some radiators where moved to different places.
From outside the old SS pipe are immaculate, recently we had to modify the pipe run under the screed (the pipes are laying on trenches covered up by dry sand and then screed over the joints are soft soldered using Yorkshire fitting which looks like new)
This summer I had an intermittent problem with the DHW, sometime the boiler (a cheap 5years old Biasi Garda ) was not going to work, it wasn’t actuating the primary flow switch it was ok with CH functions.
I checked the diaphragm, no splits but a bit floppy, I replaced it but wasn’t working at all, maybe the rubber was too rigid, after refitting the old one DHW NEVER FAILED anymore, I am sure that the HE is full of dirt on the primary flow.
My mate Plumber suggested me to use DS40 and leave it for few days.
I have now the FS40 but before put it in would like to have some tips from some of you guys.
The instruction says to use the neutraliser, now my question: how long after the DS 40 solution has been put in.
How long do I have to leave in the system? Will it give me aggravation? Meaning nasty leaks?
Any suggestion on how to use this product will be very appreciated.
THANK YOU

 

[FD Powerflow]

Hey up GG Man,

I use DS40 pretty much every day when I powerflush. FXC2 excluded its by far and away the best cleaning fluid the downside being I wouldnt personally use it without my flushing machine as it works on a colour change to tell you when its been used up or when it needs the neutraliser adding.

From what I remember of the Fernox course I went on up at Leeds it has an acetic acid in similar to fruit acid and that eats away at limescale same as FXC2 whereas other cleaning fluids dont have that and they take longer to work. Downside of an acid is you have to neutralise it at the end of a flush and while the ds40 is active it stays red, when its used up or when its been neutralised then its green. The reason you need to neutralise it is acidy water is corrosive to aluminium (think Isar heat Ex and most new Worcester combi's).

If I were you Id stick in some Heavy Duty Restorer or X800 and leave it in for a week or two, but and its a big BUT I'd also show the customer a TF1/Magnaclean demo jar and explain that if you fit one of these alongside the pot of chemical it will help get the system clean without chancing as many pinholes being opened up by the sludge being removed (something I get a lot of when powerflushing). Only thing to watch with X800 is Ive had problems with it foaming in the system which can be a pain in the backside when your trying to flush it back out.

All the be GG Man hope it goes well. If not give me a ring and Ill come powerflush it!

 

[Stuthewarrior]

HI

What chemicals are people using when powerflushing just out of intrest what gets the best results kamco or fernox ????

cheers stuart

FD Powerflow are you using the ds40 all the time because it is safe on all metals where as the Fx2 is no good on Ali

 

[ggman]

Hello powerflo
thank you very much
I used the DS40 and everything worked out ok.
I left it in for a week, I don't have any alu component in my system.
The only trouble were the lots of flushing out (I don't have a powerflushing) and with the boiler located in the loft, I am sure that I lost 2kg up and down stairs.
I was able to flush individually any rad as I have the filling loop on the return and the drain cock in the flow.
For the future i don't have any intention of loosing anymore weight so I will consider your offer.
Bye for now