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Oct 17, 2017
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Somerest
Member Type
DIY or Homeowner
Hi all, so things are coming on now at last!
New 250 cylinder in loft all pretty much plumbed in.
F+E tank binned off, new ups pump, 2 new zone valves imstalled...
Now im up to wiring up, have done the immersion, so we have hot water, ive wired in the dual stat. I have me head roughly into what i think is correct...
Last night when i was pressing the advance on the controller, noet was happening....no red light to indicate and no boiler fire....
i did see when i moved the contoller, there are some jumper links on the back of the unit...do i need to move these when going from y to s paln??
 
It sounds like you have an unvented cylinder - I’ve been told previously you’re not allowed to wire them up unless you hold G3 qualification - don’t know how much truth is in that.
 
Ive commoned the neutal, earths and supplysvon the valves, thought i had the triggers sorted, and was happy i had the outputs correct, but something isnt quite right. I did remove a link in the junction box, as this would of joined to wires, which i thought was wrong
 
Like this
 

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New batteries. No difference.
Powered system on again when i got home, checked my wires,
No advance for hw or ch?
Strangely the temp on the boiler climbs up to the 90s, messes about fluctuating, pump is running, but boiler not on🤷🏽
 
I think
Turn them on to timed then try advance

Pump Shouldn’t be running as the system is off eg timer is off
Yes, that works!
pump runs, but boiler not firing....
Temp at 76 but all pipes cold...

Im not sure if the new pipework is correct...
 

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So turn the heating on prog should give you 240 to the room stat

Turn the room stat up you should have 240v on the 2 port brown and the 2 port lever should go slack

Correct ?
Il check after my scampi and chips🤣
Just now, i called for hw, time i got to boiler, pump was running, boiler screen was live, but not lit up, boiler wasnt firing, cover off valve, lever had moved and pressing switch, pulled supply to brown, pump stopped, lever released, boiler screen shut down...
 
NB the colours of the cables except from the zone valves could be misleading to say the very least.

I recommend you confirm all the connections

does your boiler need PL and SL ?
 
Im not sure tbh. What happened. I took front off boiler, messed with the sensors on flow and return, i took the cover off the board, removed it, contact spray and cleaned all connectors, found a couple of small areas of corrosion, reassembled.
Re bled rads, bled the air valve on the hw coil return.
It fired on hw demand.

Going to let it run and warm for a bit. Then try the hot water side of things...
May not be home and dry yet, but its progress.
Again many thanks for all your help.
 

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