Worcester Bosch 24CDI not powering up

[Frazer Verth]

http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/central-heating-forum/8792-boiler-no-power-lights.html

Came downstairs this morning to a freezing house, didn't really have much time to look into it before I had to head to work but here's the symptoms:

• No power to control unit/timer (was stuck at 01:30 and not moving), no lights at all
• No power to boiler, no lights on front panel
• Boiler dripping and losing pressure but very slowly ( was at about 0.65bar this morning, is at about 0.6bar now)

I've replaced what appears to be 3amp fuse on the wall for the unit to no avail. Having read through the linked thread above, I wonder if there are similar fuses on the PCB I can test. I have a multimeter so am happy enough probing about in there if folk are able to tell me where to prod 😉

I will mention that the unit has been dripping intermittently since I moved in with my partner about 18 months ago (it's her house) but this is the first time it's done this.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, and thanks in advance for any information you can provide 🙂

Edit: Slight change, having just gone out to take a couple of pictures to try and help clarify if anyone needed visual clues (good like that you see!), apparently changing the 3amp fuse on the wall has provided power now to the timer unit, but the boiler itself won't power up. Having just had a fiddle with it the "Mains On/Off" dial just spins freely, and doesn't 'click' into place (assuming it should!). I'm assuming it's defaulted itself to 'Off' and I'm just simply unable to switch it on?

Pictures:

Boiler in the garage, with fused switch on the wall to the left

Closeup of fused switch

Super-wonky panorama shot of the controls - it's dial on the far left that spins freely

Something ...

Something else ...

Timer ... at least it has power now!

Thermostat

The timer and 'stat are in the kitchen - it backs onto the garage.

 

[fixter1]

have you got 240v to the boiler

 

[mattyp]

If the water has leaked onto the pcb, you have possibly blown the pcb ! I would get the leak sorted if i were you !

 

[Frazer Verth]

Admittedly I was a pillock and forgot to check, but yes there is.

For sure mattyp, but as I've said before it's been leaking exactly the same for months and never had an issue until now. Obviously I plan to get it fixed when funds allow but is there a way I can make sure that's what has caused the problem before throwing money at it?

 

[Billy Bob Bob]

you could try topping it up to 1.5 bar before you try anything if it then works call in a gsr engineer to fix the leak

 

[fixter1]

good spotting there gasman, didnt relise the pressure gauge in the pic lol

 

[mattyp]

The cdi has no low pressure cut out ? Just an overheat ? Or am I wrong ? If the fuse had blown it can only be an electrical prob !?

 

[Frazer Verth]

Ok, well having been out and had a little fiddle (initially following gasman's suggestion) I think I've identified the leak and the fault. The leak is coming from the blue thing in the picture above (I assume water pump?), this has obviously been dripping onto the PCD and (having discovered a spare 2A fuse in the rear of the front panel and promptly blown it, too) shorted something. So from my reckoning new PCD and whatever the blue thingamajig is would seem to be in order? If that sounds like a reasonable assumption, can anyone give an estimate on cost for repair?

Thanks for all the help so far 🙂

 

[Billy Bob Bob]

i dont think it does,cant recall if it does its on the rh side of main hex or if just a high limit stat which is crap if thats all it has it could melt if low on water anyway the point is until 1.5 is shown on that gauge we would all be jumping to conclusions

 

[Dannypipe]

Very occasionaly, you can dry out a PCB with a hair dryer, change the fuse and it will still work.

Try this, as you will see, the board alone will be pricey, let alone the pump and labour costs on top.

Remember only a qualified and registered engineer should be working on a boiler.

 

[Frazer Verth]

Forgot to mention, I did top it up to 1.5 bar, nothing happened, which is why I did start fiddling with other things.

 

[SafeGasInstall]

dont fiddle otherwise tap tap tap .......%0000000000000000m

 

[Gascat]

if the on off switch is spinning freely then its broken. phone a gsr engineer you should be able to get a free quote for a repair or at least an estimate, but you may have to pay for fault finding and diagnosis.

 

[Frazer Verth]

Thanks all, I'll speak to a GSR today.

 

[Frazer Verth]

OK, just had a chap around, apparently the pump fitted (not the original I might add) had the wrong type of head so would need replaced: £80
PCB definitely fried (I could see the scorch marks): £230
Replacement On/Off knob: £15
So all in, including labour + VAT: £460!

Not a happy bunny, so approaching British Gas about getting a new boiler installed - can't afford to pay that much in one hit but at least BG offer payment plans for new installations with 12 months homecare cover. An expense I could have done without at the moment but what can you do? 🙁