Fitting Heavy Shower Tray in recess. Any Ideas ??

[easyt]

I will be fitting a 1700 by 800 shower tray in a recess. It weighs (I think) about 55kg. I will need to bed on mortar on raised plinth. Obviously I shall have to enlist an extra pair of hands . Problem is how do I position it on a bed of mortar, in a recess and level it?? Access from front only.

I have a few ideas but I would like advice from anyone who as tackled the problem before.

EasyT

 

[tamz]

If it has a smooth base you could use a couple of these
Silverline Suction Glass Lifter Pad Triple - 100kg - Transtools

 

[easyt]

I was thinking that myself Tamz. I had already decides to get a couple to help installing the glass screen which is probably a similar weight. I still see problems achieving level setting. I have an idea but would welcome any more suggestions.

 

[kirkgas]

i fitted one in my daughters flat, 1200 x 800 and solid, i had to cut out the plaster and brickwork at one side and the plaster at the other, harder job but a superb finish, to get it wasnt a simple drop in shot, i used the plastic banding straps that sealed the packaging, slip 2 round each end of the tray and tie in a knot, use good gloves to stop cutting into your hands, and manouver into position onto the mortar, lift a bit etc to level off then simply untie the knots and pull the bands out, simples

 

[stevetheplumber]

i wouldnt bother with sand and cement if its on a raised plinth asuming the base is flat ply

 

[Bernie2]

Agree with Steve, on ply you can bed it on expanding foam, using weights to hold it down or if its heavy enough already to hold itself, good quality silicon.

 

[easyt]

i fitted one in my daughters flat, 1200 x 800 and solid, i had to cut out the plaster and brickwork at one side and the plaster at the other, harder job but a superb finish, to get it wasnt a simple drop in shot, i used the plastic banding straps that sealed the packaging, slip 2 round each end of the tray and tie in a knot, use good gloves to stop cutting into your hands, and manouver into position onto the mortar, lift a bit etc to level off then simply untie the knots and pull the bands out, simples

No banding straps. If I can grab some it might be a way out.

i wouldnt bother with sand and cement if its on a raised plinth asuming the base is flat ply

Steve it is not perfectly flat there are some dimples underneath. The MI's specify a sand cement bed.

Easy T

Agree with Steve, on ply you can bed it on expanding foam, using weights to hold it down or if its heavy enough already to hold itself, good quality silicon.

Oh it's heavy enough (over 50kg) but MI's require bedding.

 

[kirkgas]

No banding straps. If I can grab some it might be a way out.


go to any industrial area, there will be millions of them lying about, or ask at the merchants when you are in next

 

[bartgatensby]

best bet is to dry fit and find low areas and wedge these areas up. once level take out tray and put in your cement. could take a few tries to get level right and an extra pair of hands will be a back and tray saver

 

[Dannypipe]

I have some advice. It will sound odd, but trust me it works. I have fitted a fair few of these swines.

Apply lots of silicon to the sides of the tray that will be on the wall. To stick it in place. Then bank the back slightly with a wetter mix, so you can lean across and tap that area down.

Once you're waste/trap are connected, you will be able to lean very hard without moving it. As it's such a large surface area, it won't sink easily.

It is a pig of a job. I wouldn't even entertain the idea of doing it solo.

Like I say, I've fitted loads, but in a recess will be more of a challenge.

Good luck.

 

[tamz]

When mixing your mortar put a good squirt of fairy liquid in the mix. it acts as a plasticiser and helps the mortar spread very easily.
Kirks idea of the banding straps is a good one. Newer thought of that. Thanks Kirk

 

[Dannypipe]

When mixing your mortar put a good squirt of fairy liquid in the mix. it acts as a plasticiser and helps the mortar spread very easily.
Kirks idea of the banding straps is a good one. Newer thought of that. Thanks Kirk

I resisted saying about the fairy liquid as I thought I'd be branded a yeeehaar. It does work though!

 

[tamz]

Half the brickies in the country use it, or Daz

 

[easyt]

If it has a smooth base you could use a couple of these
Silverline Suction Glass Lifter Pad Triple - 100kg - Transtools

a pair arrived today. I am well impressed with the feel and build. Thanks again Tamz.

 

[turnpin]

instead of a sand/cement bed in the past I have made sure my plinth is 100% level then placed polystyrene sheeting on plinth to take up any uneveness on tray base saw it done in aquarium shop and asked guy why he said prevents any movement breaking glass so I decided to adopt idearegards turnpin

 

[justlead1]

Hi. In the past i have used a couple of bits of 2" x1" timber. laying them level and then filling with muck, ruling off of timber. dropping tray on and slide out timber so tray settlers on muck level. However the waste can be a problem. Good Luck

 

[Toddyplumb]

The funny thing about fairy liquid is its more expensive than the proper plasticiser, dont know how good that is for washing dishes though
If its a thin bed of mortar add PVA it stops it crumbling away

 

[easyt]

I put her shower base in situ to try out the wall alignment. First I cut out the plaster on the wall opposite the doorway in a 1m arc so that I could take it in on edge and then lower onto some rollers. I also took off the airing cupboard doors (gave me another 7mm. I got some damaged underground drainage pipe cheap from B&Q. 3m length with damage to end - £5.

Regarding using polystyrene - I used to keep tropical fish in my last house and had three large tanks all stood on polystyrene. The 2 foot deep tank used to indent the polystyrene by about 2mm. Mind that was a lot of water. Should be OK for a shower base though.