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Jan 7, 2016
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Winchester, UK
Member Type
General Plumber
Hi all

Just after a bit of advice. I work on site and don’t do much domestic work. But a neighbour has asked me to install an outside tap and I’m unsure how acceptable this would be.

She wants the tap in the back garden and there is absolutely no pipework at the back of the house. Kitchen and bathroom both at the front.
She is just renting and wants as little mess made as possible.

The kitchen has recently been fitted and there is no access to the pipework under the kitchen sink as it’s all hidden behind the back of the cupboards. The customer doesn’t want me to remove the cupboard or backboard and doesn’t want any holes cut.

The only access to pipework I can easily get to is behind the washing machine which is at the side of the house.

I can tee off the supply to the washing machine, come out of the side of the kitchen and run pipework along the side of the house, round into the garden. Would be about a 4 meter long run.
I’ve told her it’s likely to freeze in the winter and she must isolate and drain the pipework when it gets cold. And she’s sure she wants it done.

Only problem is I’m sure she doesn't want to be dragging the washing machine out every time it gets cold.

She’s asked if i can’t just put an isolation point on the outside. And I guess I can put a stopcock immediately as the pipework exits the house. But would this be ok? Would it not freeze in the winter too?

She’s adamant it’s what she wants doing, but I don’t want to look like a cowboy and want to do it properly.

What would you guys do?

Thanks all!
 
The come back would fall on the tenant. Just make sure anything you do conforms to regs. I wouldn't advise a stopcock on the outside. No matter how short of a run, it could freeze. Why not fit a surestop internally and feed the remote switch to an easily accessed location.
 
Outside tap external to where the washing machine is and a longer hosepipe

Yeah, I did suggest this but she wasn't keen as there are bushes running up the side of the house and didn't want to have to climb through them. Although I might push this again, as it really would be the best solution I think.
 
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If you’ve informed the tenant she needs to drain the pipe work when it gets cold enough, it’s her responsibility. If the landlord is paying, inform him of that necessity.
In regards to the shut off, if it’s too tight to fit in any gap to the side of machine (a real ball ache) she’ll just have to pull the machine out.
 
It's the Landlords house and I would be seeking their permission before I did any work on the property. It all well & good the tenant saying the landlord doesn't care, but tenants could say anything to get what they want. Have a quick word with the landlord first and explain what the tenant wants doing and raise your concerns about the external run, freezing risk and isolation issues. Give the landlord your professional opinion on how you would like it to be done and let them decide what they want you to do, taking the onus off of you.
 
It's the Landlords house and I would be seeking their permission before I did any work on the property. It all well & good the tenant saying the landlord doesn't care, but tenants could say anything to get what they want. Have a quick word with the landlord first and explain what the tenant wants doing and raise your concerns about the external run, freezing risk and isolation issues. Give the landlord your professional opinion on how you would like it to be done and let them decide what they want you to do, taking the onus off of you.

TBH, I would not be wasting time talking to land Lords. trhe teant is yur customer, and provided the job is done to standards, it is her problem. Do you get permission before fting a dishwasher, washing machine or cooker. Once again, paperwork is everything. My T&C's stated that any permissions required were the responsibility of the client, and that ordering implie that all neccessary permissions had been sought and gained. I did not neccessarily point out this clause, but it was there, quite clearly.

I have, years ago, overcome similar problems with Rob Fosters solution. Internal isolation, ran the pipe down the wall, easily drained via the tap. Could actually be easier than a surestop, given the general lack of space around a washng machine.
 
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Thanks again for all your replies.

I’ve gone back to her and said I’m not happy with running so much external pipework, and would want to speak with the landlord prior to carrying out work.

She’s now agreed to having the tap at the side of the house as I suggested which I'm much happier with.
 
I've run a supply down from the soffit, in plastic pipe work, pipe insulated all the way down and the pipe and insulation inserted into a downpipe.
It still needs an accessible isolation point as it doesn't prevent freezing - only you can determine if there is suitable access to an isolation point in the property.
The pro's are that dropping down from high level is more likely to drain down sufficiently in the winter and the plastic pipe work is quite good at coping with the expansion of any residual freezing water.
And - the downpipe protects the insulation and doesn't necessarily stand out as unusual to the casual observer as there will be other downpipes on the property and you can match the style.
Admittedly it's not ideal but it gave me a relatively discrete option when I was struggling in a similar situation.
 
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