Leaking copper pipe

[Connie194]

Hi - totally new here and really need some advice. I have a pin hole in a 10mm copper wall pipe that supplies a nearby radiator. The hole is about 4cm from the bottom of coving. I have looked at the repair patches but these are for 15mm pipe as are the other fixes available - cannot find it in 10mm. The leak is a dribble with everything on so not pouring out but leaking. I have had 3 plumbers come and look at the leak and the advice has been different on each one and the prices seem too much.

One has said that he will have to access through upstairs floor (bedroom with laminate flooring) cost approx 650-700.

Another has said that he will drain the pipe and solder cost approx 380.

Final one said he can take more wall out either side and replace bit of piping cost approx 420.

None of them can give me an idea of how long it will take so it's difficult to work out the pricing structure.

Should also mention that there is no give in the pipe at all and no gap between wall and pipe so it's difficult to see if the hole has gone all the way through.

Please advise - pictures can be posted.

Thanks Connie

 

[Connie194]

Hi - totally new here and really need some advice. I have a pin hole in a 10mm copper wall pipe that supplies a nearby radiator. The hole is about 4cm from the bottom of coving. I have looked at the repair patches but these are for 15mm pipe as are the other fixes available - cannot find it in 10mm. The leak is a dribble with everything on so not pouring out but leaking. I have had 3 plumbers come and look at the leak and the advice has been different on each one and the prices seem too much.

One has said that he will have to access through upstairs floor (bedroom with laminate flooring) cost approx 650-700.

Another has said that he will drain the pipe and solder cost approx 380.

Final one said he can take more wall out either side and replace bit of piping cost approx 420.

None of them can give me an idea of how long it will take so it's difficult to work out the pricing structure.

Should also mention that there is no give in the pipe at all and no gap between wall and pipe so it's difficult to see if the hole has gone all the way through.

Please advise - pictures can be posted.

Thanks Connie

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Might be easier to remove a bit of the ceiling to gain access to replace the damaged pipe

But realistically it’s 1/2 to 3/4 of a day of work

 

[Connie194]

Might be easier to remove a bit of the ceiling to gain access to replace the damaged pipe

But realistically it’s 1/2 to 3/4 of a day of work

Hi - Thank you for your reply. Would that be go up to the ceiling from downstairs or do it from bedroom above (it has laminate flooring) and 2 - 4 hours work? - I've been quoted 600 - 700 to do that option which seems high. I don't know the pricing on these jobs, I recently had a radiator removed non-emergency and the guy wanted £410 plus VAT. He did not take the radiator away and has not left end caps on the valves to stop any water escaping - he used no materials and was gone within the hour. I live on my own and whilst I'm confident in most jobs this one is not for me - the advice from local plumbers has varied and I wanted to ask here as I'm not entirely confident with the jobs that have been done by others - it's quite a list.

Is this the only viable option and does the price seem high.

I've been advised that the materials on this would cost £40 and might only take two hours but the charge will remain the same - I understand that no-one can give a definite time frame on this but I am shocked with the cost.

Any opinions or advice on this would be appreciated.

Thanks Connie

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Downstairs would recommend as plaster is easier to patch than laminate/ different flooring

Depends are you 100% sure it’s not leaking from above and running down

As for cost 2 hours seem optimistic especially draining down and refilling could take that etc

 

[Connie194]

Downstairs would recommend as plaster is easier to patch than laminate/ different flooring

Depends are you 100% sure it’s not leaking from above and running down

As for cost 2 hours seem optimistic especially draining down and refilling could take that etc

Hi - It's definitely leaking from that hole - I put tissue above the hole to check and it's dry. Tissue below gets slowly damp - annoying because it's the tiniest bit of water that escapes Thanks for the advice I would prefer they go up so reassuring that could be an option.

Can you tell me what "draining down" involves - only one plumber mentioned it - I understand that the pipe needs to be drained but how is this done?

One more question please - if it takes four hours is £600-700 reasonable?

Many thanks Connie

 

[Rtplumb]

Personally I would cut the pipe through the centre of the hole using a multi-tool with a metal blade, remove the clip, smooth off the pipe ends, clean and flux, put on a 10mm slip coupling, solder it up (or use a brass one). Job done, about half an hour and if you’d made me a cuppa I’d charge you £100.

 

[Mary__]

Where are you Connie?

 

[Connie194]

Hi - I'm in Manchester, not far from Manchester United. Thanks

 

[Connie194]

Personally I would cut the pipe through the centre of the hole using a multi-tool with a metal blade, remove the clip, smooth off the pipe ends, clean and flux, put on a 10mm slip coupling, solder it up (or use a brass one). Job done, about half an hour and if you’d made me a cuppa I’d charge you £100.

Hi - that was my initial thought but then three plumbers came and blew my mind - I would throw in a cake to go with the cuppa if anyone in the area could do it as you explained. It took three weeks to get the three guys in - they kept cancelling due to traffic, broken vans and other issues and another just did not turn up after cancelling once he arranged another visit which was a no show. Thank you for taking time to advise its really appreciated. Thanks Connie

 

[Connie194]

Hi - that was my initial thought but then three plumbers came and blew my mind - I would throw in a cake to go with the cuppa if anyone in the area could do it as you explained. It took three weeks to get the three guys in - they kept cancelling due to traffic, broken vans and other issues and another just did not turn up after cancelling once he arranged another visit which was a no show. Thank you for taking time to advise its really appreciated. Thanks Connie

Hi - just wanted to follow up on this post and thank everyone for their thoughts and assistance. I have some follow up questions and wanted more advice.

The copper pipe leak has been fixed today with a compression fitting - as yet I can see no leak, however, when I turned the heating on to test the pipe when hot (I believe they expand) my boiler keeps tripping out. This happened about 13 days ago when I had a leaking radiator removed but after a couple of resets on the boiler everything went back to normal - I also adjusted some of the lock shield valves to balance the system - this improved the radiators massively as some were not getting hot and some were just too hot but after running around the house I think I figured the sequence they start in and made the changes - I was happy as all seemed well - better in fact.

The plumber today used the valve where this radiator was (now empty spot) to drain the system before he fixed the pipe.

I have this evening tried to reset the boiler a few times but it's still not firing up properly - it starts OK but then the pilot goes off and it shuts down - with a “c” in front of the temp it managed to get to.

The hot water is heating up until the boiler shuts down.

It's a Ariston CLAS HER boiler with a a Wilo Yonos Pico 25/1-5-130 pump.

The radiators could not be bled today as they are covered in paint (previous owners) and some bleed valves appear to have been rounded off - when the radiator was removed 13 days ago they were not bled then but the boiler fired up & all seemed good after the resets.

Will not bleeding the radiators likely be the problem here after the leak or is there anything else that I can look at?. For example is there a valve on the drain spot that he used today likely be the problem or anything else that you can advise.

The guy who fixed the leak today is coming back on Wednesday but I wanted other thoughts on this please.

It's not a combi boiler - I have the copper tank in airing cupboard and header tank in loft system.

Finally how do I fix the bleed valves so that they can be bled - I don't want to force them open but I would like to be able to bleed them especially after the 2 "drain downs"

Any thoughts and advice on this? - I can't confirm the leak fixed until its been tested by my heating.

Apologies if this post should be central heating but I think the issue now is connected to the pipe that was leaking - no other changes have been made and heating has been fine since last drain 13 days ago.

Thanks.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Air locked best get the plumber back to finish the job

Need to bleed the rads

 

[Connie194]

Air locked best get the plumber back to finish the job

Need to bleed the rads

Hi - I really need some urgent advice due to new leaks. I originally started with a leaking copper pipe in the wall - now fixed. After the drain the plumber realised that the bleed valves on the radiators would not open due to paint/rust. The next day I scraped all the paint & rust off and during the course of the day I managed to bleed all 6 radiators - they were filled with air. Fired up boiler and all radiators & boiler worked perfectly. Whilst doing this I noticed that 3 radiators had a the tiniest sight of water around the spindle on the lockshield valve - not dripping but you could see it. I told the plumber about this when he called to check on the leak and he said not to worry - two nights ago I receive a call to say that he had a free day and could sort out the radiator valves - (he called me). We agreed a price and he told me that the job would not take long at all. He arrived the next day and I asked him if they could be fixed with plumbers tape at the packing gland nut - I have just been laid off and money is scarce. He said no as they would only leak again, he repeated that it was an easy job to change them and would fix the problem. It wasn't an easy job and the each radiator was drained 2-3 times as the new valves were all leaking. After 4 hours he said that they were at last fixed and that he would have to charge me more because of the time spent doing the job. I agreed as the valves felt OK. They are not fixed and all 3 are leaking in different parts of the stem and running my floors. In addition to this when I turned the boiler on to test it got its first error code E11 which means it's dry running. I have left it off. I contacted the plumber within hours of leaving and was told don't worry I will sort it tomorrow and in the meantime turn off the radiators. He has not turned up and I think he has now blocked my number.

The radiator valves on both sides have been turned clockwise to the off position but they are still leaking? - please advise.

The plumber put caps on the valves that I cannot get off so not sure what the spindle inside is doing? - please advise.

My boiler is tank in the loft and the error code needs addressing - the advice is to check the system pressure. Its a Wilo Yonos Pico 25/1-5-130 pump - please advise.

I would really appreciate any advice on the above - I am so unhappy and near to tears that money has been paid and the leaks are far worse on the radiators and now ruining new flooring. The boiler was fine before his second visit and after I had bled the radiators and now I have no hot water, leaking radiators and damaged laminate. The guy I used was from MyBuilder and after fixing the wall leak I gave him another job because that leak is fixed.

Thanks Connie

 

[Connie194]

I have attached images. Please note image one is what they looked like before he changed them. Image 3 shows that the nut is slanted??

Thank you to any thoughts and advice on this - I am so upset with where I now am.

Thanks

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Your original valves if the same as the first picture would of just required a nip of the glad nut quiet normal for them to weep if not used / operated for a while

As for leaking all I can suggest is to drain down to limit damage and get a plumber out as the person whose done that isn’t one

 

[Connie194]

Your original valves if the same as the first picture would of just required a nip of the glad nut quiet normal for them to weep if not used / operated for a while

As for leaking all I can suggest is to drain down to limit damage and get a plumber out as the person whose done that isn’t one

I agree about the original valves and I did tell him this - I've stopped leaking taps at the gland nuts so know a little bit but he said not a good idea. Just to clarify about limiting the damage - is it likely water in the radiator causing the leak (when off) or is water from the system? - when you say drain down do you mean the radiators that are leaking - drain them? - thank you for your quick reply, so appreciated.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I agree about the original valves and I did tell him this - I've stopped leaking taps at the gland nuts so know a little bit but he said not a good idea. Just to clarify about limiting the damage - is it likely water in the radiator causing the leak (when off) or is water from the system? - when you say drain down do you mean the radiators that are leaking - drain them? - thank you for your quick reply, so appreciated.

I’m guessing the couplings are leaking so the system need to be drained to stop the damage / leaking

 

[Connie194]

Your original valves if the same as the first picture would of just required a nip of the glad nut quiet normal for them to weep if not used / operated for a while

As for leaking all I can suggest is to drain down to limit damage and get a plumber out as the person whose done that isn’t one

I suggested this & the tape method if needed but both were declined.

 

[Connie194]

I suggested this & the tape method if needed but both were declined.

Hi - I have decided to try and fix one of these leaks myself but wanted some thoughts & advice.

My plan is to tackle the valve which does not have the brass nuts on the lower pipe. Thinking back I did not see the plumber clean any fittings or use any tape - I was told not needed because they were new valve's - I disagreed with this but felt as he was the “professional” I should go with that - regret not following my instincts now. I mention this because I think this is one I can do with guidance and if he didn't use it then I should try and put it on.

Steps I intend to take.

Turn off water at mains.

I currently have a drain fitting on a spot where a radiator was removed a few weeks ago (downstairs) - attached image - I'm on my own with no ladders so don't want to go in the loft if I don't have to so would prefer to use this - please advise.

I then attach hosepipe to the tail drain on the radiator valve with a clip and slowly turn the chrome valve above it with a screwdriver and drain the water? - please advise.

Once drained I close the chrome valve or do I leave everything in place including hosepipe until the repair is ready to test? - please advise.

On the radiator that is leaking both valves are turned clockwise off (since leaks) - I leave them shut and with towels and tubs at the ready I hold the body of the valve with wrench or adjustable spanner and slowly loosen the chrome nut between that lies horizontal and drain the water from there? - please advise.

I then loosen the chrome nut from beneath the valve and remove body? - please advise.

I then put the tape around the thread of the valve - anticlockwise? and how many wraps? - please advise.

Are there any olives that I'm going to encounter or is just the body with the thread at the bottom that I have to wrap with tape and concentrate on - please advise.

Should I clean thread/fittings or will they be OK because they are new?

Where in this process do I bleed the radiators of air - before, after or both and will this include the the other two radiators with the leaking valves.

Once all this is done I turn water back on and test for leaks? - if still leaking repeat the process?

If there are any steps that I have missed please advise.

I am sorry for the long post, I can usually repair most things but radiators make me so nervous.

In DIY terms is this a difficult job or is it one that people can do themselves using the steps above?

Given that I have paid for a lot of plumbing work these past few weeks - some of which now has to be rectified and funds are not there due to redundancy as well. I want to attempt at least one radiator.

Any thoughts on this much appreciated or any link to a step by step guide that you can send me.

Finally if you are reading this and think - “doesn't know what their doing” be honest and tell me, in a gentle way please or if you think “on the right track” please fill in any gaps/steps I've missed or overlooked.

Thank you for anymore input you can give.

Thanks

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Tbh I wouldn’t keep the compression couplings need removing and the use of soldered fittings

 

[ShaunCorbs]

But In short

Turn water mains off

Hose pipe on drain off

Open drain wait 2-5 mins then vent the upstairs rads and leave open

The downstairs rads will have to be individually drained either via drain offs like picture or via tubs / containers etc

System drained within reason some water will be still in the system in the pipework lower than drain offs etc not much tho

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I suspect the reason why the fittings are leaking is the pipe is damaged / has diverts / indents etc 10mm isn’t easy to work with

 

[Connie194]

I suspect the reason why the fittings are leaking is the pipe is damaged / has diverts / indents etc 10mm isn’t easy to work with

I agree but he did not use any new pipe - I clearly remember him tapping one of the valves onto a paint covered piece and offered to go out and get new. I should of asked him to leave when he asked me where the off license was at 2 in the afternoon whilst in the middle of a job. This guy does have a license - I checked. Thank you for the reply.

 

[Connie194]

But In short

Turn water mains off

Hose pipe on drain off

Open drain wait 2-5 mins then vent the upstairs rads and leave open

The downstairs rads will have to be individually drained either via drain offs like picture or via tubs / containers etc

System drained within reason some water will be still in the system in the pipework lower than drain offs etc not much tho

The downstairs rads will have to be individually drained either via drain offs like picture or via tubs / containers etc

I only have two downstairs at the moment and their both one of the leaky trio so not a wasted job there.

I take your point on soldering but could this be avoided using tape & other or is solder the only way to go - not mastered soldering and worried that if still leaks I'm in a corner?

I value your opinion and the more you tell me, the more I realise that none of the plumbers followed the correct steps - which is linked to the not working boiler. Everything was fine 3 nights ago and that was only after I managed to bleed the radiators when they could not and get the boiler working. The heating & boiler were working together perfectly - I even managed to balance the radiators which was a first for this house.

"If ain't broke don't fix it" is one lesson I have definitely took on board.

Thanks again for your input

 

[ShaunCorbs]

You could try ptfe but normally there’s a reason why it’s leaking

Won’t harm stripping the joint once drained to inspect etc

 

[Connie194]

You could try ptfe but normally there’s a reason why it’s leaking

Won’t harm stripping the joint once drained to inspect etc

Understood & thank you - I guess I'm not going to know until I open it up what he's left behind. This seems the easiest of the three to tackle but has the worst leak - I don't think he used tape, etc and these were offered to him. I am hoping thats the reason for the leaks. He told me it was not necessary for new valves but my understanding is to use these even on a new fitting.

 

[Connie194]

Understood & thank you - I guess I'm not going to know until I open it up what he's left behind. This seems the easiest of the three to tackle but has the worst leak - I don't think he used tape, etc and these were offered to him. I am hoping thats the reason for the leaks. He told me it was not necessary for new valves but my understanding is to use these even on a new fitting.

Hi - after closer inspection and tests I have found the leak near the bottom of the pipe - I have marked it with tape and attached a picture. I'm still testing the nut but I think that's OK. Any advice on next my next move?

Thanks

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Get to clean un bent pipe and adapt from there

 

[Connie194]

Get to clean un bent pipe and adapt from there

Just wanted to update - another plumber has been today - one of the leaks was getting worse (don't know why) - he told me that there was no leak on the pipe of the other one - I showed him and he said it I was incorrect. He checked the fittings on all three and tightened them but he did say that it was a wait and see and if they did leak he would have to undo the other guy's work and start again. I agreed and expected this - the original work is shoddy to say the least. The boiler is back on and the guy today did check the tank in the loft - first plumber in 5 who has - he went to number 1 on the list just for that because none of the others could be persuaded to go up in the loft. I checked the pipe earlier today after he left and there is a leak the pipe!! - which only I can see apparently - I even think there might be two nicks on it. I made a video and sent it to today's plumber and he's going to come back in the week. The other two are also still leaking but not as bad as they were. The radiators all seem to be out of sequence to what they were last week - some getting hot and some not but I'm leaving that until I know that everything is leak free - I have bled them again this evening just to release any air so everything else keeps moving. Today's plumber's opinion of the other guy was that the fittings were not tight enough but based on that theory they should be OK now??.

I feel that the only way forward is to strip it all back and start again - I am of course concerned that l end up at square one and the new work also leaks but want an end to it. I've asked so many people to recommend a competent plumber but it seems you guy's are hard to find and I thank everyone that took time out to reply & read this post - you all talked far more sense than the ones I have dealt with in the past month.

Final questions so I'm armed for the next visit.

How would you repair the pipe from the image I sent? - the leak is just above the bend & I still think there might be one on the opposite side. I wanted to know how you guy's would do it once the pipes been cleaned & location of leak/s confirmed. Is it a case of build it back up with a fitting? - this has been done on the other 2 and their leaking including the one without the slanted brass nut "display"

Would you use tape or other on new fittings to ensure a tighter fit?

New copper pipe should always be used? (for new joins)

I did not see the first or second plumber use any tape, one used old copper pipe that was in his bucket and I didn't see them deburr any pipes. When I've done plumbing here I do all 3 and thought it was standard practice and if it is I want to ensure that that these steps are not missed on "the rebuild"

Thank you

 

[Rtplumb]

Just wanted to update - another plumber has been today - one of the leaks was getting worse (don't know why) - he told me that there was no leak on the pipe of the other one - I showed him and he said it I was incorrect. He checked the fittings on all three and tightened them but he did say that it was a wait and see and if they did leak he would have to undo the other guy's work and start again. I agreed and expected this - the original work is shoddy to say the least. The boiler is back on and the guy today did check the tank in the loft - first plumber in 5 who has - he went to number 1 on the list just for that because none of the others could be persuaded to go up in the loft. I checked the pipe earlier today after he left and there is a leak the pipe!! - which only I can see apparently - I even think there might be two nicks on it. I made a video and sent it to today's plumber and he's going to come back in the week. The other two are also still leaking but not as bad as they were. The radiators all seem to be out of sequence to what they were last week - some getting hot and some not but I'm leaving that until I know that everything is leak free - I have bled them again this evening just to release any air so everything else keeps moving. Today's plumber's opinion of the other guy was that the fittings were not tight enough but based on that theory they should be OK now??.

I feel that the only way forward is to strip it all back and start again - I am of course concerned that l end up at square one and the new work also leaks but want an end to it. I've asked so many people to recommend a competent plumber but it seems you guy's are hard to find and I thank everyone that took time out to reply & read this post - you all talked far more sense than the ones I have dealt with in the past month.

Final questions so I'm armed for the next visit.

How would you repair the pipe from the image I sent? - the leak is just above the bend & I still think there might be one on the opposite side. I wanted to know how you guy's would do it once the pipes been cleaned & location of leak/s confirmed. Is it a case of build it back up with a fitting? - this has been done on the other 2 and their leaking including the one without the slanted brass nut "display"

Would you use tape or other on new fittings to ensure a tighter fit?

New copper pipe should always be used? (for new joins)

I did not see the first or second plumber use any tape, one used old copper pipe that was in his bucket and I didn't see them deburr any pipes. When I've done plumbing here I do all 3 and thought it was standard practice and if it is I want to ensure that that these steps are not missed on "the rebuild"

Thank you

Hi Connie,

I've been following this heating saga with interest. First, I'm glad you got the pipework with the hole in it fixed, but unfortunately you are having problems with the rad valves, so here's my 10 pence worth.

Looking at the pictures of the valves that are leaking seem to be 15mm chrome valves with a 15mm x 10mm internal reducer? Correct?

The problem with 10mm copper pipe is that it's quite soft compared to normal 15mm copper pipe, and is easily deformed by an over tightened olive. Once that happens no amount of fiddling with it will cure the leak which seems to be what the plumbers who have attended have done.

In my opinion and what I would do is (if there's enough slack in the pipe work) is cut off the old 10mm olive back to usable clean (remove old paint and muck etc.) pipe and replace it. Some internal reducers have a 'built in olive' therefore you have to replace the whole reducer. With the replacement, use a jointing paste and when it's tightening time, get it finger tight first then just quarter to half turn with a spanner. If it still leaks a quarter turn more which should do the trick.

Hope this helps.

 

[Connie194]

Hi Connie,

I've been following this heating saga with interest. First, I'm glad you got the pipework with the hole in it fixed, but unfortunately you are having problems with the rad valves, so here's my 10 pence worth.

Looking at the pictures of the valves that are leaking seem to be 15mm chrome valves with a 15mm x 10mm internal reducer? Correct?

The problem with 10mm copper pipe is that it's quite soft compared to normal 15mm copper pipe, and is easily deformed by an over tightened olive. Once that happens no amount of fiddling with it will cure the leak which seems to be what the plumbers who have attended have done.

In my opinion and what I would do is (if there's enough slack in the pipe work) is cut off the old 10mm olive back to usable clean (remove old paint and muck etc.) pipe and replace it. Some internal reducers have a 'built in olive' therefore you have to replace the whole reducer. With the replacement, use a jointing paste and when it's tightening time, get it finger tight first then just quarter to half turn with a spanner. If it still leaks a quarter turn more which should do the trick.

Hope this helps.

Hi - thanks for the detailed reply regarding the saga - perfect description.

I hadn't realised about the 15mm fitting but it makes sense now you've pointed that out.

The plumber from Sunday is coming to do the repairs on Wednesday - he has good reviews so I'm hoping this will end the saga. Slightly concerned that he didn't see the leak on the pipe but I didn't spot it either straight away - fingers crossed.

Thanks

 

[Connie194]

Hi - thanks for the detailed reply regarding the saga - perfect description.

I hadn't realised about the 15mm fitting but it makes sense now you've pointed that out.

The plumber from Sunday is coming to do the repairs on Wednesday - he has good reviews so I'm hoping this will end the saga. Slightly concerned that he didn't see the leak on the pipe but I didn't spot it either straight away - fingers crossed.

Thanks

Just to clarify the pipe on the radiator hasn't been fixed yet - he could not see it on Sunday so I sent him a video to confirm it was there and I think the valve also has a leak. My original leaking wall pipe was fixed and seems to be ok. Thanks

 

[Connie194]

Hi Connie,

I've been following this heating saga with interest. First, I'm glad you got the pipework with the hole in it fixed, but unfortunately you are having problems with the rad valves, so here's my 10 pence worth.

Looking at the pictures of the valves that are leaking seem to be 15mm chrome valves with a 15mm x 10mm internal reducer? Correct?

The problem with 10mm copper pipe is that it's quite soft compared to normal 15mm copper pipe, and is easily deformed by an over tightened olive. Once that happens no amount of fiddling with it will cure the leak which seems to be what the plumbers who have attended have done.

In my opinion and what I would do is (if there's enough slack in the pipe work) is cut off the old 10mm olive back to usable clean (remove old paint and muck etc.) pipe and replace it. Some internal reducers have a 'built in olive' therefore you have to replace the whole reducer. With the replacement, use a jointing paste and when it's tightening time, get it finger tight first then just quarter to half turn with a spanner. If it still leaks a quarter turn more which should do the trick.

Hope this helps.

Today's update to this saga. The plumber has managed to fix all three valves (I think). Apparently two of the pipes to the radiators were 8mm and not 10mm - this was new information for me The first guy had fitted 10-15mm reducers so this was the main factor of the leaks. I'm happy with the guy that's done the work today, however he has denied twice that there is a leak on the radiator pipe - I sent him a video and before he started today he confirmed it was the valve and not the pipe. I told him it was both but he did not accept this. This evening the pipe is wet near the base - I have put tissue under the nuts and it is dry - if you get really close with lighting bubbles appear not drips and I am 99.9% certain that it's the pipe.

Can somebody advise me what course I should take here - 2 plumber's have said "no leak on pipe" - one has stated it twice. I feel like I'm going mad over this - the pipe could of and should of been fixed today with the valve but I can't seem to convince anybody that the pipe is leaking and fed up with paying for groundhog day and this whole saga. What next please.

Thanks

 

[Rtplumb]

Today's update to this saga. The plumber has managed to fix all three valves (I think). Apparently two of the pipes to the radiators were 8mm and not 10mm - this was new information for me The first guy had fitted 10-15mm reducers so this was the main factor of the leaks. I'm happy with the guy that's done the work today, however he has denied twice that there is a leak on the radiator pipe - I sent him a video and before he started today he confirmed it was the valve and not the pipe. I told him it was both but he did not accept this. This evening the pipe is wet near the base - I have put tissue under the nuts and it is dry - if you get really close with lighting bubbles appear not drips and I am 99.9% certain that it's the pipe.

Can somebody advise me what course I should take here - 2 plumber's have said "no leak on pipe" - one has stated it twice. I feel like I'm going mad over this - the pipe could of and should of been fixed today with the valve but I can't seem to convince anybody that the pipe is leaking and fed up with paying for groundhog day and this whole saga. What next please.

Thanks

Hi Connie,

I’m a tad confused. Is the leak from the base of the valve or from the actual pipe? Any chance of some pictures of both the offending valve and pipe, thanks.

Just an after thought. Could you also check the plug or air vent above the valve at the top side of the radiator. Sometimes they have a tiny leak and it runs down the back or between panels and show at the valve.

Hope this helps.

 

[Connie194]

Hi Connie,

I’m a tad confused. Is the leak from the base of the valve or from the actual pipe? Any chance of some pictures of both the offending valve and pipe, thanks.

Just an after thought. Could you also check the plug or air vent above the valve at the top side of the radiator. Sometimes they have a tiny leak and it runs down the back or between panels and show at the valve.

Hope this helps.

Hi - thanks for replying. The air vent/valve is on the opposite side and seems OK. I left tissue under the nut and that has become wet overnight. I have maintained that there are maybe two leaks on the pipe as well - this has been denied three times. Two bubbles appear from the pipe and if you look closely there seems to be "two nicks" in the same place - picture attached which I think shows it. I have sent a video to the guy from yesterday who has not got back to me yet - I keep showing the leak and get told I'm wrong???

Thanks