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Vaillant also say there is a filter that can be accessed and cleaned if you remove the rubber flow hose./QUOTE]The filter is is plastic and i have found it very hard to remove to clean. You are better of chucking the whole piece in a bucket of descaler.
 
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Ideal optia,basically a early condensing classic. Water staining and rusting on the inside of casing running down centre of the boiler. HAd two o these with good fga readings of about 20ppm co and 0.00 ratio so thought it could not be inner flue! Wrong! break the top section of secondary hex and withdraw to find the pipe adaptor corroded through leaking all over the back of boiler. God knows how the fga wasn't going crazy?
 
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Gloworm betacom 24/30c short cycling..... Check flame electrode hasnt bent into burner so flame isnt recognised.

No ignition on ferroli tempra, remove a wire from aps and if fan kicks and ignition commences in you know you have a sticking aps.
 
IDEAL LOGIC+ you can find the last 10 faults and also current reading, flow rates, temperatures etc in the installer settings.
all you have to do is turn both dhw and ch potetiometer knobs to minimum and hold the reset for about 2 seconds
 
Sorry missed that vaillant water pressure switches detect system pressure but also look for a 0.3 bar spike when the pump first kicks in, if it doesn't detect the spike thinks its a pump failure. So if the pumps running but getting f75 it's a blocked up pressure sensor. Bad position on the old models bottom left now top left on the new models.

Found out today Vaillant do an F75 kit which moves the sensor from the flow to the return just after the pump.

It's about £120.00

Should be free!
 
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baxi 105/24,instants,performa,main 30-24 all HE VARIANTS NOT SE
flame failure light intermittent,fan fault neon on 99% aps has failed or rubber boot on combustion box cracked
pump pressure switch illuminated,pin not lifting,its normally a blocked hole under the diaphragm at fault
no ignition aps or gas valve multiplug fault
cant keep water in it gauge drops instantly,HE hex split,check condy pipe with the boiler off water going down confirms it
heating fault gets up to 60 degrees,kettling ,shuts down,thermistor reading 11k when cold,return filter blocked
fan noisy-plastic boots on plugs faulty does sound like the fans going
baxi duotec1/HEA,plat1,potterton gold,tit,heatmax,promax
E168 pcb internal coms failed,as a temp fix remove all the plugs,have a cuppa,re fit plugs,re set it,will add more as time allows
 
Not really a fault as such but if you get asked to service a powermax (the older version 155 i think) take the burner gaskets with you and take the burner out. 9 times out of 10 the baffels in the heat exchanger have fallen to bits. They are about £17 each and there are 8 of them. (read in manuall you are suposed to replace the baffels every 2 years!) To remove once cracked you have to remove the sump and its a good few hours. Boiler classed as ID. The last 3 powermax boilers I have serviced have all resulted in winning new boiler changes.
 
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Biasi 24s/m96 unusual one I had. Boiler intermittantly cuts out on temperature and wont reset but does not lock out. The green led flashes fast allowing you to go to diagnostic mode by flipping the dip switches on the PCB. Check BP on heating, ramps up to full and goes out on temperature. Heating NTC at fault.

Biasi 24s (older one) no heating, hot water okay. Heating fires up briefly then goes out indicating a flow fault. If fuse spur is turned off on this model you sometimes need to push up one of the dip switches on the PCB and leave for 10 mins, then flick back. Only found out from technical but have since had this fault twice. Then the heating stays on and works fine.
 
Not really a fault as such but if you get asked to service a powermax (the older version 155 i think) take the burner gaskets with you and take the burner out. 9 times out of 10 the baffels in the heat exchanger have fallen to bits. They are about £17 each and there are 8 of them. (read in manuall you are suposed to replace the baffels every 2 years!) To remove once cracked you have to remove the sump and its a good few hours. Boiler classed as ID. The last 3 powermax boilers I have serviced have all resulted in winning new boiler changes.


Some of the guys in work checked with Powermax and they said that it's only NCS if the baffles aren't replaced as long as it isn't having an effect on combustion as they are only there to make the boiler a bit more efficient.

Also, you can sometimes get away with getting some condensate pipe and pushing it down on to the broken baffles at the bottom and then they'll pull out with the condensate, and you can get some really long nose pliers - never work on Powermax myself but the guys that do never seem to remove the sump to remove the old baffles.
 
Ariston Clas HE - If there's been a power cut it can sometimes cause the PCB to lose it's memory, if you look in the manual, there's a ridiculous amount of parameters - go through them all and make sure they are correct or the boiler will be causing all sorts of problems.
 
Some of the guys in work checked with Powermax and they said that it's only NCS if the baffles aren't replaced as long as it isn't having an effect on combustion as they are only there to make the boiler a bit more efficient.

Also, you can sometimes get away with getting some condensate pipe and pushing it down on to the broken baffles at the bottom and then they'll pull out with the condensate, and you can get some really long nose pliers - never work on Powermax myself but the guys that do never seem to remove the sump to remove the old baffles.

When I spoke with Baxi tech regarding the broken baffels they said it is classed as ID (not that they seem to know much themselves about these boilers) as they are there to slow the gasses down and it would effect the flame. I have replaced the baffels before by pulling them through the bottom but the time it takes to do that and the cost of them makes it seem like a bad choice in my opinion. Plus the fact that if you leave a powermax turned off for more than a day several components seem to fail at once for some reason.
 
Secret to replacing and setting up a PCB on a new Biasi by refering to the manual that comes with it..................dont bother and ring the manufacturers.
 
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If you fit a vaillant and theres no display and not working on initial fireup. dont get carried away and start swapping pcbs/display boards. Check the pressure sensor (slug) by unplugging it and replace. Dont know why faulty slugs cause this but they can..
 
Ravenheat CSI 85at, pump running, but nothing else - primary ntc sensor or the loom to it are no good.

Same boiler as above. Boiler lights, but goes out again - bad connection on condense trap. Cut it off and join the PCB end to the spark end.
 
Fan running constant on a FAN modulation boiler - ideals isar, etc, Worcester greenstar, etc... Usually points to fan failure

It's a failure of the tacho PCB on the fan and it can't regulate the fan speed
 
Poor flame on pilot

If the flame is not a pronounced crisp blue flame on the pilot then then injector is usually on the way out.


You shouldn't try and. Clear this with a pin Etc. you should always replace
 
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If visiting a Hamworthy boiler with a HSI
You must check the resistance in ohms.

It must be between 80-120 ohms. Of it is outside of this range it is prob on its way out. But also it may cause PCB damage
 

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