Cast Iron style rads on 10mm

[Bibbs118]

Take ages even using a wall chaser. I have done that when piping to ordinary rads, but the lack of movement in the pipes to the rad valves is then a problem.

How long per rad to chisel out and put copper in???, bungalow and I'll have ex BG installer with me, (I'm a service and repair guy, so slow on pipework, Just slow all round really)

 

[Bibbs118]

For a chase normally allow an hour

What, with a machine?

How much does a machine cost? And how many cutters will I go thru?

 

[Harvest Fields]

Behind the skirting?

 

[Bibbs118]

Behind the skirting?

That's what the customer mentioned, it's probably the best compromise, but pipes coming out of the skirting still looks a bit Rubbish I think.

Ffs, installing is hard!!!

 

[ShaunCorbs]

What, with a machine?

How much does a machine cost? And how many cutters will I go thru?

Yes a wall chaser and extraction unit you can hire them for about 100 all in and none

 

[Harvest Fields]

That's what the customer mentioned, it's probably the best compromise, but pipes coming out of the skirting still looks a bit **** I think.

Ffs, installing is hard!!!

I wouldn’t do it. But it’s an option. I would chase the wall or floor. Wall is the easiest option.

 

[Last Plumber]

It depends on the size/surface area of the radiator and the delta T.

They will govern the required water flow rate/speed/volume required.

That will determine the size/bore of pipe required.

There are other things to consider when designing a system such as frictional resistances through pipe work, pump sizes, water noise etc but I am presuming that all that is correct and you are just changing the radiators.

I agree with other comments about the aesthetics.

Those type of rads were not really seen (in real life), with 10 mm pipes sticking out of walls.

Customers!!
Fashion!!

 

[Bibbs118]

It depends on the size/surface area of the radiator and the delta T.

They will govern the required water flow rate/speed/volume required.

That will determine the size/bore of pipe required.

There are other things to consider when designing a system such as frictional resistances through pipe work, pump sizes, water noise etc but I am presuming that all that is correct and you are just changing the radiators.

I agree with other comments about the aesthetics.

Those type of rads were not really seen (in real life), with 10 mm pipes sticking out of walls.

Customers!!
Fashion!!

Ffs, customer just rang after I put in my ball park quote, rads to expensive going with white panel ones.

 

[Harvest Fields]

Ffs, customer just rang after I put in my ball park quote, rads to expensive going with white panel ones.

Pretty standard that mate. For me it’s decorative column rads.

 

[Bibbs118]

Pretty standard that mate. For me it’s decorative column rads.

He's have a couple of them now to save a bit of wall space.

Thanks to everyone how posted.

 

[Last Plumber]

Ffs, customer just rang after I put in my ball park quote, rads to expensive going with white panel ones.

Typical.

Everyone loves the stylish idea but no-one loves the stylish price.

No-one appreciates the stylish time you put in either.

 

[Ric2013]

I think I hired a chaser for £40. But I had my own vacuum.
Agree 2kW is probably too much on 10mm - in any case, 2 kW was a figure plucked out of the air, not an actual figure relating to the OP's question.

 

[Dkdc71]

The only thing 10mm should be used for is oil line every time I come across it I remove it

 

[Ric2013]

The only thing 10mm should be used for is oil line every time I come across it I remove it

Then you are in disagreement with the Copper Development Association which states:

Where
the chosen diameter is too large, so
that the velocity is less then 0.5 m/s,
then sludge can settle in the piping.

and in some cases would therefore prefer to see 10mm used to get sufficient velocity.

Of course, you are allowed to be in disagreement, though.

 

[Last Plumber]

Then you are in disagreement with the Copper Development Association which states:

Where
the chosen diameter is too large, so
that the velocity is less then 0.5 m/s,
then sludge can settle in the piping.

and in some cases would therefore prefer to see 10mm used to get sufficient velocity.

Of course, you are allowed to be in disagreement, though.

I agree.
There is no need to over size pipework and no excuse for under sizing it.

 

[Welder]

Ahh, the old 1,000,001 ways to pipe a rad argument... 😛

 

[Ric2013]

. . . and every single one of them is right?

 

[Last Plumber]

. . . and every single one of them is right?

No.
They are not all right.
Pipe size can and should be calculated out.
There are 'rules of thumb' of course and we all use them but they come from experience normally. Experience of everyday /common work.

 

[Gasinspect]

Our house was done with 8mm years ago. I was skeptical and promised myself I would redo in 15 but actually works OK even on large k2. Yes takes a while to heat up but maintains fine, just depends on lifestyle. So never got around to changing. If they just want fast short bursts of 2 hours morning and a few in evening then might struggle.

 

[Supermeteor]

I'll ring the manufacturers tomorrow , try and get something in writing .😉😉😉

Here's a link to a manufacturer who feels microbore's OK FAQ's Questions Cast Iron Radiators | Ribble Radiators
The 10mm can be disguised or concealed if the aesthetics are a big issue. I had an 1800 x 600 double convector running satisfactorily on 8mm microbore for 34 years at our house, installed from new in 1977 by the developers (until the in screed F&R pipes succumbed to corrosion...) Instinctively, it feels wrong, but it worked.