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On your other point of the height of syphon making the handle sit at an angle - This is incorrect, as what you can use is a longer link wire, which you can buy at DIY & merchants.
A Dudley height adjustable syphon can be set for correct height. If you set it at a low enough height for internal overflowing, then make sure it is perfect by overflowing the cistern to check water level doesn't reach handle or other holes.
A Dudley height adjustable syphon can be set for correct height. If you set it at a low enough height for internal overflowing, then make sure it is perfect by overflowing the cistern to check water level doesn't reach handle or other holes.
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Trev78
I've tried about 3 merchants - no luck! That was plumbase, plumb centre and another.. No joy! Not many local type firms round these parts now. The other part they offered me was a ideal standard type - totally wrong.
Is there a national firm that has these available do you know?
Also, assume I have to get the 9.5" siphon?
Is there a national firm that has these available do you know?
Also, assume I have to get the 9.5" siphon?
T
Trev78
P
Paulplumb
Lower syphon will be fine as it just means the water level has to be a lower max level, but that won't matter in your toilet & probably can be to normal water line anyhow. Only problem apart from link wire short is the Ballvalve arm can easily get jammed on the upper bit of the syphon as the arm moves up & down. It is a case of touching one thing causes more problems! I would tended to have just connected up the overflow pipe as that syphon you have is a good one.
But if you wish you could fit a lower syphon with a longer link wire (if needed) & possibly consider the ballvalve MIGHT have to be replaced with a vertical fill valve like a Fluidmaster or similar.
But if you wish you could fit a lower syphon with a longer link wire (if needed) & possibly consider the ballvalve MIGHT have to be replaced with a vertical fill valve like a Fluidmaster or similar.
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Paulplumb
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Trev78
The siphon in the pic is the replacement - they gave me a 9" instead of a 9.5". The original 9.5" was a Dudley cascade s7b.
The arm is close on the new one!
The arm is close on the new one!
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Trev78
The old siphon didn't pull the handle very well. Instead of refurbishing, I thought I was clever replacing as the rest of the bathroom is fresh... A mistake, possibly!
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Trev78
Looks nice and clean & neat! Is that white silicone between the pot & the floor? Better with clear, believe it or not. White shows too much.
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Trev78
I found white silicone tended to be too obvious & also shows every little irregularities in the surfaces - particularily if floor tiles have grooves and also at the tile joints. Clear silicone will not show these & frankly the 'dark' joint you get using clear silicone looks better even on white tiles. Try just setting a new pot on top of tiles & you will find the unjointed base actually looks better than a white jointed base, imo anyhow. Wall tiles to basins I use white silicone ("Forever White" which is guaranteed to stay white & no mould) on basins to walls etc.
Dow Corning 785 I found was going mouldy in wet places like shower tray joints.
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Trev78
Thanks for the advice.
I'll leave it as is for now, but will remove and replace in the future if goes mouldy or looks bad. Any tips on removal? Is use builders wipes and a Stanley blade...
I'll leave it as is for now, but will remove and replace in the future if goes mouldy or looks bad. Any tips on removal? Is use builders wipes and a Stanley blade...
It still looks pretty good in that photo & I would be happy to leave as is. Just thought I would mention my preference for clear silicone on floor. Also prefer clear to chrome shower doors frames (very little used & not really showing).
I remove silicone much the same as you, but have bought a plastic tapered silicone removing tool that I have not tried it. I discovered some of the cleaning sprays attacks the old silicone which is handy. Problem is the risk of scratching the surfaces. I never nowadays use loads of silicone as there is no point in it & it is wasteful but on top of that it is too hard to remove later & what it sticks together.
One thing I highly highly recommend is those silicone tooling shapes. Brilliant & wipe all the excess fresh silicone away & shape the joint depending on which corner shape you use.
I remove silicone much the same as you, but have bought a plastic tapered silicone removing tool that I have not tried it. I discovered some of the cleaning sprays attacks the old silicone which is handy. Problem is the risk of scratching the surfaces. I never nowadays use loads of silicone as there is no point in it & it is wasteful but on top of that it is too hard to remove later & what it sticks together.
One thing I highly highly recommend is those silicone tooling shapes. Brilliant & wipe all the excess fresh silicone away & shape the joint depending on which corner shape you use.
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Trev78
By cleaning sprays, what kind of thing do you mean?
I have some rubber ended tools for silicone profiling.
I have some rubber ended tools for silicone profiling.
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