Advice please?

[armyash]

You file the chrome off first to the depth of the fitting plus a little more, so the solder can adhere to the copper.

Wish i had known that back in January! haha

That job does not look like a pro did it. Makes my work like i've been doing it for 10 years, hope it gets sorted out. I would tell him I want it sorted once and for all within a week or he will not be receiving payment. If he needs to speak to the manufacturers about fittings tell him that's his problem it's not stopping him from sorting your house out.

 

[ne1ls0n]

allways solder if possable, not had a problem with one yet, only use compression if i can't burn fittings, eg joining onto steel pipe etc. works out cheaper to as people have said.

 

[AWheating]

the plastic pipework is a mess, plain and simple. (like your plumber)

with your joist system plastic pipework is the best solution, but only if fitted and pressure tested correctly. Supported, straight runs, no compression fittings, no strain on the fittings, all lagged etc......

as regards the chrome pipe and fittings, its not your problem even if its faulty material, he should just replace it and if he wants to take it back or speak the the manfacture then thats his problem not yours. I would not leave my customer thinking its there problem the materials ive supplied are faulty.

 

[questions]

Thanks AWheating. When you say 'pressure tested correctly' what in your view would be correct? As I said up thread he has tested, but not to 2 bar for 10 mins followed by 10 bar for 10 mins (as the speedfit literature specifies). He keeps telling us that because the blow out valve on the boiler blows out at 3.5 bar, he can't do this.

Also, I can see exactly what everyone is saying re. the layout, clips etc. I checked what speedfit recommend and their documents seem quite clear. However, we rang speedfit and described the work he's done and they said it was ok! E.g. they said for pipe work that is not on show, clips spaced at 1000mm are fine- their recommendation of 300mm is only for pipes on show on the wall?!

Re. the chrome pipes, he is offering to replace and follow a procedure suggested by the pipe manufacturer to ensure no leaks this time.

Thanks so much to everyone for your advice, it has been so helpful!

 

[PlumbBobBob]

the boiler blow off will most likely be 3bar not 3.5bar. it is usual to isolate the boiler so that the blow off doesn't operate. pipe clips should be every 300mm wherever they are to prevent pipes sagging and causing places for air locks to develop.

 

[SimonG]

You don't pressure test the full system, just the pipework before it's connected to the boiler and rads.

 

[erpkid]

Thanks AWheating. When you say 'pressure tested correctly' what in your view would be correct? As I said up thread he has tested, but not to 2 bar for 10 mins followed by 10 bar for 10 mins (as the speedfit literature specifies). He keeps telling us that because the blow out valve on the boiler blows out at 3.5 bar, he can't do this.Also, I can see exactly what everyone is saying re. the layout, clips etc. I checked what speedfit recommend and their documents seem quite clear. However, we rang speedfit and described the work he's done and they said it was ok! E.g. they said for pipe work that is not on show, clips spaced at 1000mm are fine- their recommendation of 300mm is only for pipes on show on the wall?!

Re. the chrome pipes, he is offering to replace and follow a procedure suggested by the pipe manufacturer to ensure no leaks this time.

Thanks so much to everyone for your advice, it has been so helpful!

Hello, I hope you do get this sorted. Looking at the pics you posted I remember what my mentor told me on day one "if it looks right it is right" This is very hard to achieve with plastic but with planning is possible. It is amazing what these new fittings can tolerate but I think your guy has pushed the boundaries a tad far without I fear understanding them. I won't comment on the chrome pipes work.Let us know how you get on.

 

[erpkid]

Thanks plumber0808. Would you say compression fittings are unreliable then, even if they are fine when fitted, are we likely to have a problem shortly down the line?

I really appreciate all the help you have all given me on here. Although I have to say that quite frankly I never wanted to know this much about plumbing!!:banghead:

I feel for you. I would not be able to sleep if a customer of mine was going through this. :thinking:

 

[Guest123]

The quickest and easiest way to file off chrome from copper is to whiz a Dremel round it with a cutting disc. Done in seconds. If the guy is having problems with compression fittings, then why fit more compression fittings! If you are having a problem, remove that problem and use something else and in this case as it's under a floor, I'd recommend as I said earlier that soldered fittings are used.

 

[Keefy]

For your own peace of mind and in my opinion because I don't like push-fit or compression fittings in inaccessible places I'd recommend taking all that plastic out and replacing it with copper and, as mentioned several times here - soldered fittings. That's if your 'plumber' knows how to use a blow torch (and pipe bender) but from what I see in your pictures I'd be willing to bet he owns neither.

Excuse after excuse isn't going to get this job done quickly, ripping out and doing it again will. Hope you get it sorted soon, it must be driving you mad.

 

[plumber0808]

1 excuse - fine, a excuse for everything - alarm bells

 

[ashtonjay]

crikey that looks like very lazy plumbing
dont get me wrong we plumbers love speedfit (though a lot wont admit it)
but a bit of organisation and a few pipe clips wouldnt go a miss
i couldnt leave that kind of mess for a customer
always plumb like its your own place i say:toilet::toilet:

 

[WHPES]

Haven't read many of the posts but just looked at the photos. What an utter abortion! Wouldn't in my wildest dreams think of passing off such a mess! Not the work of a proper plumber IMO (or at least one with any self respect)

Looks like there could also be too many holes drilled through the timbers too close together than what is allowed.

 

[TimeServed]

So sorry to hear about your mess.....
Plastic if installed correctly is totally fine, I personally use Hep and think its great!
In regards to to the pressure testing, he only needs to test the pipe work! all other components (boiler, rads etc) will be visible! As long as he has the right equipment and knowledge then testing to the manufacters recommendation will not be a problem.
As for asking him to replace the plastic with copper and soldered fittings......I wouldn't want him with a naked flame anywhere near my home!
Good luck.