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dboi78

ive got to service a bbu tomorrow never done one on my own before, not sure how different it is to a fan flued, apart from checking ventilation flue flow test and spillage and a good clean what else is specific for a bbu service, should i change thermocouple as standard or not ?

also.......

is a tt needed on a service as i have differing opinions on this ?

also........

if i dont have mi's can i legally complete a service ?

also........

do u do spillage at fire hood with both bbu and fire on for spillage on bbu ?

four questions in one post is that a record ?? ... five questions haha !!
 
Thermocouples dont need replacing every year.

You dont have to do a tightness test, just spray up any distrubed joints (which there will be a few of). Some people like to do a tightness test but it isnt a requirement.

You should have the MI's really if you arent familiar with the appliance, find out the make and model and you will be able to find them online.

You should check the MI's regarding spillage tests, normally spillage fire on its own first then put boiler on for 5 mins and do it with them both on. Spillage test points on the fires arent always obvious (if you dont work on many bbu's) aswell, another reason to read the MI's.
 
I'd recommend getting a copy of the manufacturers instructions if you are unfamiliar.

I would do a tightness test, although you don't really need to if you isolate locally and test with leak spray.

No need to change thermocouple unless it is faulty.

Definitely needs a full strip down and burner/heat exchanger/other components thoroughly cleaned.
 
Take a deep breath and be safe 🙂 Know your limitations but challenge yourself to learn! AND if in doubt err on the side of safety!

They are becoming a dinousaur but there are still a lot out there 🙂 Just make sure the POC's are going up the chimney and you'll not be killing anyone LOL 🙂
 
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You are probably right but personaly I would always do a tightness test. LDF doesn't always show if there is a leak.

its perfectly acceptable for you to do a TT before the service but do you discuss the potential problems you might cause the customer before you do it?
and you said you do need to, which isnt the same as you choosing to
 
if its your first one allow your self a couple of hours at least and you will need the MI's as different fires have diferent ways they come of the front of the boiler\the worst ones have electric lights in the surround which is the width of the hearth some are held back by wires some lift of brackets and some are screwed to the wall
some the fire comes of with wood surround still fitted, some have 2 or 4 screws in the front and the case comes of first just getting the fire of is a mine field for the uninformed
remember to clean any gauze filters on the burners
the gasvalve and burner all comes out together\ after youve removed the front plate which also means slipping the thermostat phial out
 
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you may find that some MI do not give good guidence on spillage tests, but you may find the fire have a sticker/badge with spillage details.

cast iron HX will need a good clean as normal.
 
Check pipework from bbu is sealed where it passes through c/breast,quite often its boxed in ,been to loads of these put smoke bomb by pipework and found it coming out of airing cupboard upstairs.Check 3rd seal above bbu, also after removing burner make sure case is not corroded.When doing a spillage test i normally leave the fire and bbu on for about 5 mins to warm the flue then test the fire and bbu separately,check seal where copex is attached to bbu,should be sealed with f/cement.I also prefer to do a tightness test after all pipework has been reconnected,I've known the soldered joint at the back of the 3-way gas tap leak after the connecting nut has been disturbed.Best of luck.
 
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I always replace TT on BB units, if not its sods law that a few days later you will get a call saying my pilot won't stay lit, then you have to strip the thing down again, for the sake of a couple of pounds always replace !.
 

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