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Ron , believe me , you need the tool . no brush will clean between the hex bends .
I know, i believe you. But I won’t scrub the hex with wire brushes. I will use the brushes supplied by the manufacturers. What kind of stuff do you use? Perhaps you can upload a pic of what you use.
 
I know, i believe you. But I won’t scrub the hex with wire brushes. I will use the brushes supplied by the manufacturers. What kind of stuff do you use? Perhaps you can upload a pic of what you use.

They a easy to clean , all I use regarding brushes is a old paint brush with about 15mm of bristles left , its stiff enough to clean without scratching , trouble is I am nact when they wear away , I will have to buy another one , its taken years to get it this good lol.
 
replace burner gasket,
drain and recharge expansion vessel and make sure its sized correctly,
clean condy trap out,
check the pump is in good condition and still working,
check flue system is correct and is bracketed and screwed if not apply them,
check the safety valves are correct and terminating in the correct positions,
check the plate temp drops,
check the diverter is working correctly and fully
bleed all the rads and check system water,
clean the maggy filter,
if maggy is that bad clean the return boiler filter,
balance the system,
adjust the boiler heating setting for the required kw load,
check hot water temps as outlets,

and more
 
replace burner gasket,
drain and recharge expansion vessel and make sure its sized correctly,
clean condy trap out,
check the pump is in good condition and still working,
check flue system is correct and is bracketed and screwed if not apply them,
check the safety valves are correct and terminating in the correct positions,
check the plate temp drops,
check the diverter is working correctly and fully
bleed all the rads and check system water,
clean the maggy filter,
if maggy is that bad clean the return boiler filter,
balance the system,
adjust the boiler heating setting for the required kw load,
check hot water temps as outlets,

and more
Thanks for list shaun!
What do you mean by checking the plate temperature drops? How am I doing this?
I also don’t check the diverter valve in particular as I check the boiler before I start the service if all works well.

I always do visual checks around the boiler, inside the boiler, flue and gas pipe
I do my Letby and tightness tests
Gas rating
Fga
Burner seal
Electrodes
Trap
Filter if present
Prv Check of termination
Expansion vessel checks
I also check the safety by turning the gas off and see if boiler goes into lockout after re igniting few times.
 
temp on hot water side flow and return to check its working correctly and same on the heating side can tell if the plate needs cleaning or replacing
Good to know, I will check that next time as I have got those clamps from testo. Ifthe difference between flow and return is too big will that mean I could have a dirty plate?
 
Good to know, I will check that next time as I have got those clamps from testo. Ifthe difference between flow and return is too big will that mean I could have a dirty plate?

you want it to be big ie 60-25-30 etc plate is good

60-55 plate bad / needs cleaning
 
you want it to be big ie 60-25-30 etc plate is good

60-55 plate bad / needs cleaning
Usually the flow temp. Is set to 55-60c and return is mostly 15-20k difference. If I had a boiler 65 flow temp and return is 58c that means I could have a bad steel plate which needs cleaning?
 
Usually the flow temp. Is set to 55-60c and return is mostly 15-20k difference. If I had a boiler 65 flow temp and return is 58c that means I could have a bad steel plate which needs cleaning?

correct for a plate on the hot water
 
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