Drayton Digistat+ 3 hard wire problem

[Dave Box]

A Big Hello to everyone, I'm new to the Forum and would appreciate any help that you can give. I have just purchased a New Drayton Digistat +3 22087 hard wire model to replace my current mechanical Micromark room thermostat which contols my boiler/room temp. I have removed it from it's wall mounting and it reveals a mains cable which has 4 cables in it, One of each of the following RED/BLUE/YELLOW/EARTH.
My problem is as follows, when reconnecting the cables to the New Drayton Digistat + 3 do I just connect the Red & Blue to the L & N Terminal on the new T/Stat and egnore the Yellow which has a red sleeve over it, and I presume is the live switch cable for the Micromark. The Drayon Manual tells me to egnore the neutral and earth connections as the unit is double insulated. any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[Admin]

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Welcome to UKPlumbersForums.co.uk Dave Box. Thanks for introducing yourself.

 

[tamz]

There are 2 versions of the Digistat. 22083 is battery powered and 22087 in mains powered.
Unfortunately you have bought the mains powered version so the wiring would need to be altered to enable it to work.

If you can change it for the 22083 version it is much simpler to wire using the red and yellow wires to C and on, and isolating the blue.

The red and yellow wires are the switch and the blue is a neutral.

 

[Dave Box]

There are 2 versions of the Digistat. 22083 is battery powered and 22087 in mains powered.
Unfortunately you have bought the mains powered version so the wiring would need to be altered to enable it to work.

If you can change it for the 22083 version it is much simpler to wire using the red and yellow wires to C and on, and isolating the blue.

The red and yellow wires are the switch and the blue is a neutral.

Hi Tamz, Thanks for your reply, It looks like I am stuck with the 22087 version , can you offer advice on how I can hard wire with the existing wiring previously discribed. Regards Dave

 

[tamz]

It needs to be a bit of a workaround to use the existing wires.

Basically you need to keep whatever timeswitch you have for the heating turned on to constant. This is to give you a live supply to the digistat.

Before you start you have to find out which of the wires at the stat is the live feed from the clock ie the red or yellow. It should be the red but as the stat was just a switch it was not too important so may be the yellow.

Test them before removing the old stat by turning the heating on at the timeswitch, turn stat down low and test. Preferrably use a multimeter as this would confirm the neutral but a neon screwdriver will work to tell you the live.

Lets say it is the red that is the live feed from the clock.

Fit the red and blue to L & N. Put a link between L and C and put the yellow to On.

That is it. Just remember to keep the old timeclock turned to constant for the heating. If it goes off your digistat will go off too.

There are other ways to do this but this is the easiest way.

 

[Dave Box]

It needs to be a bit of a workaround to use the existing wires.

Basically you need to keep whatever timeswitch you have for the heating turned on to constant. This is to give you a live supply to the digistat.

Before you start you have to find out which of the wires at the stat is the live feed from the clock ie the red or yellow. It should be the red but as the stat was just a switch it was not too important so may be the yellow.

Test them before removing the old stat by turning the heating on at the timeswitch, turn stat down low and test. Preferrably use a multimeter as this would confirm the neutral but a neon screwdriver will work to tell you the live.

Lets say it is the red that is the live feed from the clock.

Fit the red and blue to L & N. Put a link between L and C and put the yellow to On.

That is it. Just remember to keep the old timeclock turned to constant for the heating. If it goes off your digistat will go off too.

There are other ways to do this but this is the easiest way.

Hi Tamz, Once again thanks for your response and advice, Just on thing I am not sure of. I bought the Digistat + 3 as a direct replacement for my mechanical Micromark thermostat, does your advice mean that having done the wiring as you suggest I still have to have the Micromark connected.or can it be removed ?

 

[tamz]

Fit the digistat in it's place.

 

[Dave Box]

Fit the digistat in it's place.

Hi Tamz, Your response has been great, It Makes me look an idiot but it all finally makes sense, I have checked the terminal connections with a neon screwdriver and with the thermostat turned down to off. The Red Terminal shows power to the unit. The Yellow terminal only lights up indicating power when the stat is turned up a little. So following your wiring instructions the yellow goes to ON in the Digistat with a link from L to C.

 

[tamz]

So following your wiring instructions the yellow goes to ON in the Digistat with a link from L to C.

Yes. That's about all there is to it.

Sometimes it is harder to explain than actually do.

 

[Dave Box]

Yes. That's about all there is to it.

Sometimes it is harder to explain than actually do.

Once again Many Thanks. I will follow on with a further reply probably tommorrow letting you know how I have got on.
Best Regards
Dave Box

Once again Many Thanks. I will follow on with a further reply probably tommorrow letting you know how I have got on.
Best Regards
Dave Box

Hi Tamz, Success, after following your instructions a trouble free installation which only took a couple of minutes to do, it's a massive improvement on the Micromark, which was running OK but did not give me the progammable options that the Digistat + 3 does, it's very user friendly and easy to use. Once again Many Thanks for your Help and advice with this issue.
Best Regards
Dave Box

 

[tamz]

You're welcome.

 

[PlumbBobBob]

hi dave box welcome to the forums

steve

 

[Dave Box]

Once again Many Thanks. I will follow on with a further reply probably tommorrow letting you know how I have got on.
Best Regards
Dave Box


Hi Tamz, Success, after following your instructions a trouble free installation which only took a couple of minutes to do, it's a massive improvement on the Micromark, which was running OK but did not give me the progammable options that the Digistat + 3 does, it's very user friendly and easy to use. Once again Many Thanks for your Help and advice with this issue.
Best Regards
Dave Box

Hi Tamz, You can't get rid of me that easy. The help and advice you gave me was great, the installation of the hard Wired Digistat +3 went well. Now I have another issue you may feel that you can help me with. Having seen My new Digistat +3, My daughter has just purchased the Digistat+ 3 RF701 version, and guess what, who do you think will be connecting it up. Loking at the Wiring Diagram it looks like all I have to do its disconnect the wiring for the old Stat from the Combi Boiler, Link into the
L & N ion the boiler and run to the SCR receiver L&N . Then I am not sure about terminals 1 & 2 on the SCR it looks like they run to the External Control connections on the boliler, Also what cable do I need to have. It will only be a short link from the SCR to the boiler, the SCR will be sited virtually next to the boiler in the boiler cupboard, any help advise that you can give with this issue will be appreciated.
Best Regards
Dave Box

 

[tamz]

You have gone for the hard way again 🙂. Would have been easier with a 22083 but never mind.

You will need a bit 4 core + earth flex (at least 0.75mm) or 2 bits of 2 core + earth.

Site the receiver about a foot or so away from the boiler. Take a live and neutral from the boiler to the L & N terminals on the receiver.

Remove the original stat wires from the boiler and take 2 more wires from there and connect them to 1 & 3 of the receiver.

Job done 😉

 

[Dave Box]

Once again Many Thanks Tamz, Once done I will let you know.
Best Regards
Dave Box

Once again Many Thanks Tamz, Once done I will let you know.
Best Regards
Dave Box

Hi Tamz, Back again just to clarify it, with the cable you have said I need, I know I have some 3 core cable that I can use to run Two bits of cable One for L & N terminals and the other for terminals 1 & 3.
The only doubt I have is with the earth wire, on both leads, I presume that I should egnore this as it states that it is not required as the receiver is double insulated.
Regards
Dave Box

 

[tamz]

The only doubt I have is with the earth wire, on both leads, I presume that I should ignore this as it states that it is not required as the receiver is double insulated.
Regards
Dave Box

Just cut the earth off on both leads. The receiver is double insulated so it is not needed.

 

[Dave Box]

Hi once again Tamz,
Just to confirm that acting on your advice I did the installation of the Drayton Digistat +3 RF model successfully and without any related problems, in fact it was a doddle to do. The receiver is sited inside the boiler cupboard with a live feed direct from the boiler. The origional room thermostat feed was disconnected and replaced with a new feed from the boiler to the receiver. The thermostat transmitter is sited in the lounge and not inline from direct sunlight, which was the issue with the origional thermostat. Once again Many Thanks for your help witgh tghis issue.
Best Regards
Dave Box

 

[tamz]

Easy innit 😉

Glad to help.

 

[Dave Box]

Hi I have just Purchased two Drayton 22083 Thermostats to replace my neighbours and my Sons mechanical thermostats, Can you give me any indication Hints on wiring up the Drayton + 3 22083 model.
Regards
Dave Box

 

[tamz]

Have a look at the stats to be replaced and see if they have a neutral (3 wires) Most do but some don't.
Test the wires by turning the CH on and the stat up and down to confirm which wire is which.
The one that is live with the stat turned down (off) will connect to C on the new digistat. The one which becomes live when the stat is turned up connects to ON
If there is a neutral present safely isolate it (bit connector block will do).
Leave CH set to 24hrs on the programmer

 

[Dave Box]

Hi Tamz, Job done, and Many Thanks for your info help.
Best Regards
Dave Box

 

[Inverness]

Hello. I've purchased the Drayton digitstat 3 battery model to replace my Honeywell cm51 programmable thermostat which is already connected to a combi boiler.
Can someone take the time and explain if it's a straight swap or will I a eletrician in?
I am in 2year apprenticeship of svq plumbing and heating and I'd like to see if I can do if I get the proper advice of you guys. My boss never does the electrics we always use a sparky. But I'd like to learn. We haven't yet been taught it in class yet just the basics of earthing.
I'm sorry it is a day of rest but i do appreciate if someone can teach me so I can have the programmer working today.

Thank you

 

[ShaunCorbs]

how much time you got ? take the front off the cm51 and take a pic please (of the wiring)

 

[Inverness]

There is one red wire and one black wire. There is also a earth wire which isn't connected.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

There is one red wire and one black wire. There is also a earth wire which isn't connected.

as its plastic it wont require an earth now can you take a pic of the new stat wiring connections if poss?

and red in the a and black in the b?

 

[Inverness]

I can't seem to paste the photo and send too you. The Drayton connections has 3 connection point. C,
Load on,
Off.

 

[Inverness]

If you can send me your email address I can sent the photos that way?

 

[Inverness]

 

[Inverness]

[DLMURL]https://mail.aol.com/38947-111/aol-6/en-gb/mail/get-attachment.aspx?uid=28540542&folder=Inbox&partId=3[/DLMURL]

 

[ShaunCorbs]

 

[ShaunCorbs]

c terminal red wire
on terminal black wire

but make sure the power is off

pg4

[DLMURL]http://www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=10442[/DLMURL]

 

[Inverness]

Will this all I need and it will work?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Will this all I need and it will work?

unless you have problems it should

as its a battery unit it doesnt need power it works like a light switch power sent from boiler/wiring center and live back to boiler/ wiring center (calling for heat)

 

[Inverness]

thanks again Shaun very much appreciate your time and patience.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

thanks again Shaun very much appreciate your time and patience.

not a problem any problems you know where we are

 

[Inverness]

I've connected it to the correct wires like you said. If I override the thermostat like the old programmer it would fire the boiler up but it isn't doing it on this now?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

does it work normally tho?

 

[Inverness]

Yeah the Honeywell worked fine I only replaced it caused it looked dated. The temperature in the house ATM is 25 degree centigrade I override it to 30 the small flame appeared on the display and it should then fire the boiler up? I did read this programmer and all other thermostatic programmers that are made now have an intelligents built into it. I'm thinking because I
The house is already very warm it won't fire the boiler due to the fact that it's too warm and this must be the intelligents kicking which makes it be energy effiencency? Would I be correct?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Yeah the Honeywell worked fine I only replaced it caused it looked dated. The temperature in the house ATM is 25 degree centigrade I override it to 30 the small flame appeared on the display and it should then fire the boiler up? I did read this programmer and all other thermostatic programmers that are made now have an intelligents built into it. I'm thinking because I
The house is already very warm it won't fire the boiler due to the fact that it's too warm and this must be the intelligents kicking which makes it be energy effiencency? Would I be correct?

you got a multi meter/ volt pen?

 

[Inverness]

I don't sorry. I've got a neon flat head. The Honeywell worked fine. What do you think it could be? Should it just override matter what the room temperature is?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

if the flame sim is there then the room stat is calling for heat pitty you didnt have a multi meter with you as red should be live (when power is on) and black is back to the boiler for call (eg turn on) i think

 

[Inverness]

What if I swap wires around?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

What if I swap wires around?

you can try

 

[Inverness]

What is the worst it can do if it doesn't work? Could it blow the fuse?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

What is the worst it can do if it doesn't work? Could it blow the fuse?

no just wouldnt work/work
as the things rated for 240v

 

[Inverness]

Should it matter if the red sleeving is biting down on the screw rather than the copper wire in the connecter block on the Drayton programmer?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Should it matter if the red sleeving is biting down on the screw rather than the copper wire in the connecter block on the Drayton programmer?

no as the copper will still be touching

 

[ShaunCorbs]

the first time you did it, it should be like this

 

[Inverness]

Yeah shaun I've done it that way. From your experience What could be the problem?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Yeah shaun I've done it that way. From your experience What could be the problem?

sorry to say hard to tell with out a multi meter if you have voltage in red one (230-250v) to earth could be the stat but if you dont have voltage on red or black could be further back, does it work with old stat back on ?

you didnt do them live did you?

 

[Inverness]

Yeah the old stat worked fine no problems. The battery's from the Drayton are roasting hot?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Yeah the old stat worked fine no problems. The battery's from the Drayton are roasting hot?

they shouldnt be that warm maybe stat at fault how old is the stat?

 

[Inverness]

No I turned the power off from the consumer unit.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

No I turned the power off from the consumer unit.

thats fine

 

[Inverness]

I bought it yesterday from bnq

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I bought it yesterday from bnq

i would send it back tbh as the batterys shouldnt be that warm

 

[Inverness]

Ok. What type of programmer thermostat would you recommend ?
Thank for all your help.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Ok. What type of programmer thermostat would you recommend ?
Thank for all your help.

what system you got?

 

[Inverness]

Combi boiler.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Combi boiler.

what boiler and are you gas safe?

 

[Inverness]

My boss is gas safe. It's a glow worm combi 10year old not a condensing.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

do you have a heating timer on the boiler or is it sep? if you do you only need a simple room stat

Drayton Digistat + Room Thermostat | Thermostats | NoLinkingToThis

[url]http://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/honeywell-dt90e-digital-room-thermostat-eco/41365
[/URL]

 

[Inverness]

Nothing on the boiler. I used the Honeywell programmer with a built in thermostat.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Honeywell CMT921 Wireless Room Thermostat | Wireless Thermostats | NoLinkingToThis

 

[Inverness]

Got it working. The face on the programmer wasn't connecting the pcb board. As I had it screw too tight against the wall. It's clicking off and off now. Great.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Got it working. The face on the programmer wasn't connecting the pcb board. As I had it screw too tight against the wall. It's clicking off and off now. Great.

😀 bloody plastic cr*p

good job for sticking with it

 

[Inverness]

Yeah I know. When I remove the back case and put the front back on I heard the signal wire making a click sound to the boiler then it fired up. Thanks to your patience and expert advise now I have a new programmer working.
Thanks again.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Yeah I know. When I remove the back case and put the front back on I heard the signal wire making a click sound to the boiler then it fired up. Thanks to your patience and expert advise now I have a new programmer working.
Thanks again.

not a problem