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plumb_know

Plumbers Arms member
Plumber
Gas Engineer
Sep 5, 2012
558
128
43
Maidstone, kent
hi everyone,

I need to hang a heavy vertical rad (10,500 btu) onto a dot and dab plasterboard wall with breeze block behind it. This is the first time i have needed to hang something this heavy onto breeze block and am just looking for some advice on what fixings are best for this situation?

thanks
 
You maybe could consider coach screws (basically heavy screws with hexagon nut heads) & raw plugs to suit - like fisher plugs.
Very strong & so easy to tighten up using a socket. I use stainless steel coach screws for outside on walls for flue pipes, but ordinary plated ones will do inside.
Or frame fixings or long thunder bolts also handy.
 
When u say breeze block do u mean Thermalite or concrete block? If Thermalite use some form of large rawplugs and screw. Permaps cut in a 18mm ply spacer and then plaster board over it and then screw brackets through plaster and plaster board into ply. If concrete resin some 10mm stud in and use a stainless 10mm nut finished off with a dome nut
 
thanks for all the replies,

how can i tell if it is Thermalite or concrete block? if i use coach bolts should i use some type of resin with them??

thanks everyone
 
if they are thermalite you could push your screw driver in to them, they are the blocks you can cut with a hand saw. Obviously you cant do that with concrete blocks, unless you fancy a go but I wouldn't advise it LOL
 
I use the rawl plugs and thick gauge screws also the 4 brackets you have are about 70mm x 70mm with the half moon curve , i put a little dab of no nails on back of bracket as i screw them in,
 
It's a shame no one makes a brown plug, with a solid spacer of plastic about 25-30mm long. This would be perfect for fixing into block covered in dot and dab. It would stop the plasterboard from being pulled in.
 
It's a shame no one makes a brown plug, with a solid spacer of plastic about 25-30mm long. This would be perfect for fixing into block covered in dot and dab. It would stop the plasterboard from being pulled in.

In this situation, I drill the hole into the wall and put a piece of copper into the plasterboard until it hits the blockwork.
Mark the copper on the face of the plasterboard, cut it and use it as a spacer.

It works a treat, but what would I expect.
My old boss - bless his soul ( not )! taught me that.
 

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