Help with heating choice for extension

[ShaunCorbs]

Many thanks! Think insulation will be more than 100mm but I need to double-check.

Well just take a 100w off per 100mm

 

[freddyq]

Well just take a 100w off per 100mm

One other thing please...the front reception room on the ground floor has always had issues heating up, it takes an absolute age to heat to 20C. I reckon the radiator isn't big enough so I've put the info below and would appreciate it if you could validate my thinking?

Length: 3.45m
Width: 3.1m
Height: 2.4m
How many outside walls: 2
Doors sizes outside only: No external opening doors
Windows sizes: 3 window panels in an A-shaped bay window layout. Each side panel is 0.5m wide and 1.54m high. The middle panel is 1.34m wide by 1.54 high.
What’s above: Bedroom
What’s below: Wood joists

The radiator is basically a single panel which sits directly underneath the middle bay window panel. Because the windows are so tall the radiator has to be quite short, it measures 1.1m wide by 0.41m tall, and that I think is the problem.

Thanks.

 

[freddyq]

One other thing please...the front reception room on the ground floor has always had issues heating up, it takes an absolute age to heat to 20C. I reckon the radiator isn't big enough so I've put the info below and would appreciate it if you could validate my thinking?

Length: 3.45m
Width: 3.1m
Height: 2.4m
How many outside walls: 2
Doors sizes outside only: No external opening doors
Windows sizes: 3 window panels in an A-shaped bay window layout. Each side panel is 0.5m wide and 1.54m high. The middle panel is 1.34m wide by 1.54 high.
What’s above: Bedroom
What’s below: Wood joists

The radiator is basically a single panel which sits directly underneath the middle bay window panel. Because the windows are so tall the radiator has to be quite short, it measures 1.1m wide by 0.41m tall, and that I think is the problem.

Thanks.

Bump @ShaunCorbs would appreciate your advice on this...

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Sorry just been too busy this week to sort anything out will try and do it tomorrow

 

[freddyq]

Sorry just been too busy this week to sort anything out will try and do it tomorrow

No probs, understand..

 

[ShaunCorbs]

1.4kw needed to heat the space

Your rad works out around the 550-600w

You need k2 around the 1.2m by 400mm

 

[freddyq]

1.4kw needed to heat the space

Your rad works out around the 550-600w

You need k2 around the 1.2m by 400mm

Many thanks for confirming. I'm guessing you get rads for bay windows which can bend round the bay? Because I'll need a k2 type which can effectively bend round the bay wall to get it to 1.2m in length.

Just for my own knowledge, is there any other solution or remedy to heat this room properly and quickly?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Many thanks for confirming. I'm guessing you get rads for bay windows which can bend round the bay? Because I'll need a k2 type which can effectively bend round the bay wall to get it to 1.2m in length.

Just for my own knowledge, is there any other solution or remedy to heat this room properly and quickly?

Yes but there not cheap and need to be specially bent

Other than insulation, no other than electric heating

 

[Ric2013]

Many thanks for confirming. I'm guessing you get rads for bay windows which can bend round the bay? Because I'll need a k2 type which can effectively bend round the bay wall to get it to 1.2m in length.

Just for my own knowledge, is there any other solution or remedy to heat this room properly and quickly?

Yous say it's a timber joist floor - I'm assuming not insulated nor airtight then?

If you want a reasonably cheap way of draughtproofing and insulating that floor at the same time, perhaps 1/2" Celotex or similar on top of the floorboards (joints can be taped or sealed with expanding foam) covered by a floating floor on top of the Celotex would do. Ideally you'd take the boards up and insulate below, but if you want to avoid the hassle... Insulating a floor doesn't make a huge difference to heat losses, but draughtproofing will make a huge difference.

You'll struggle to keep a draughty room warm - and having cold feet will always make you feel uncomfortable, so I would always recommend a floor be draughtproof and insulated if you have a chance. My logic is that if you insulate and draughtproof first, you won't need so much heat input anyway.

 

[freddyq]

Yous say it's a timber joist floor - I'm assuming not insulated nor airtight then?

If you want a reasonably cheap way of draughtproofing and insulating that floor at the same time, perhaps 1/2" Celotex or similar on top of the floorboards (joints can be taped or sealed with expanding foam) covered by a floating floor on top of the Celotex would do. Ideally you'd take the boards up and insulate below, but if you want to avoid the hassle... Insulating a floor doesn't make a huge difference to heat losses, but draughtproofing will make a huge difference.

You'll struggle to keep a draughty room warm - and having cold feet will always make you feel uncomfortable, so I would always recommend a floor be draughtproof and insulated if you have a chance. My logic is that if you insulate and draughtproof first, you won't need so much heat input anyway.

As far as I remember when the house was renovated a few years ago it was a timber floor and we put laminate flooring on top. I don't think we added any insulation or did anything specific on making it airtight.

Just to be clear, you're saying something like 1/2" Celotex on top of the floorboards and then put the laminate flooring down on that? What part of that is draught proofing it?

 

[Ric2013]

As far as I remember when the house was renovated a few years ago it was a timber floor and we put laminate flooring on top. I don't think we added any insulation or did anything specific on making it airtight.

Just to be clear, you're saying something like 1/2" Celotex on top of the floorboards and then put the laminate flooring down on that? What part of that is draught proofing it?

The Celotex and the taped or foamed joints would draughtproof it. But I wouldn't recommend putting laminate floor straight on top of Celotex in case the Celotex deforms too much and breaks the laminate floor. I was thinking a floating floor Chipboard or whetever on top of the Celotex. In practice, laminate floors usually would have fairly tight joints so I'd be surprised if your floor were especially draughty and probably isn't worth the hassle of the insulation if the floor is already free from draughts.

 

[freddyq]

The Celotex and the taped or foamed joints would draughtproof it. But I wouldn't recommend putting laminate floor straight on top of Celotex in case the Celotex deforms too much and breaks the laminate floor. I was thinking a floating floor Chipboard or whetever on top of the Celotex. In practice, laminate floors usually would have fairly tight joints so I'd be surprised if your floor were especially draughty and probably isn't worth the hassle of the insulation if the floor is already free from draughts.

OK thank you. I think for me the two primary contributors to the issue are unusually tall windows which I can't do much about and a radiator which isn't big or powerful enough, which I will aim to do something about.