Ideal Icos HE 24

[Millsy 82]

Remember not as experienced as you lot so don't shoot me down. Silly question. You are putting the combustion door back on with the four screws before you try to run the boiler aren't you?

Only if gas safe or some other inspector is there. If they are not then I don't worry about it too much.

Some boilers won't fire with the case removed (positive pressure cases mainly but also a few negative pressure cases) it's a pain having to put a case back on just to take it back off again.

 

[Whyme]

If it drops off after 2 seconds adjust the offset cos maybe straying.

 

[Paulplumb]

Thanks Milsy . Is there an orange sticker on the combustion chamber door indicating the burner earthing pins have been changed to the new coat hanger type? Maybe check you have a good earth?

 

[Paulplumb]

Just dug out the engineers/training day manual for this boiler and they made us add this note as this can also cause the fl lf fault.

The boiler only has a 52 mm seal in the condensate trap so if the overflow from the boiler is run directly into a waste system it should have an air break before running into a trap with a 76 mm seal to prevent air locking. might be worth running condensate directly into bucket to test? Good luck!

 

[Millsy 82]

Thanks Milsy í*½í¸€. Is there an orange sticker on the combustion chamber door indicating the burner earthing pins have been changed to the new coat hanger type? Maybe check you have a good earth?

I never trust the orange sticker the top comes off every time for me. Even the coat hanger type warp out of shape so better to check them. Once you work on a few it doesn't take too long.

 

[arran197]

I would be checking the condense trap too. Although there are quite a few things that could cause this fault. Check the gas pressure on the inlet to make sure that's ok. The black flame rectification lead often melts and shorts out (as has been said), due to poor design. They're not very expensive, so worth doing.

Change the earth/insulation pad retention pins, as has been said, they've been redesigned (again, poor design) and need changing anyway. I've had to AR a few for having warped pins that cause the pads to collapse and the the boiler melts itself!

The ignition and flame rectification electrodes also warp and don't allow ignition or rectification. Best thing is to replace them, they're not too expensive either. You need to make sure you get the right ones for the right boiler as there's a couple. You'll need the serial number.

Check polarity is correct and there's a good earth connection where they should be.

 

[rich201283]

1.) if the boiler is firing and then cutting out after 2 secs, I would check flame detection electrode and lead, the leads are located near the heat ex and go brittle, bits fall off and then the lead earth against the heat ex.
2.) check the flame detection electrode

3.) if the boiler runs for a while and then cuts out going to fl, check condensate sump and traps clear

After checking these, move on to be pcb checking

From what you describe it will be the flame detection electrode or lead