ideal isar

[benrrosegas]

hi i am a gas engineer i have been called out to a ideal isar, they said the heating is coming on with the timer off, i realised that it is the divertor valve passing and when the dhw preheats it makes the ch pipes get hot. what part should i change, the head 173628 or the body 173624, is there any more checks i can do to prove which part it is,
thanks

 

[JackBournemouth]

remove the head off of the diverter valve and change the demand and see if it motors across either way, if it does, replace the body.

 

[benrrosegas]

okay do i need to drain the sytem down before i move the head, and will there be a pin underneath the head, is that the part i am checking to see if it moves or not, what if it doesent move either way

 

[diamondgas]

You can get the cartridge for the willo valves these days by-the-way ... they come with a fancy tool for removal 🙂

 

[Rickster123]

Did you say you were a gas engineer??

 

[diamondgas]

okay do i need to drain the sytem down before i move the head, and will there be a pin underneath the head, is that the part i am checking to see if it moves or not, what if it doesent move either way

Dry valve, no need to drain! You'll fathom out what is supose to happen when you take the head off, promise 🙂

 

[benrrosegas]

yh i am ive recently qualified and im learning okay, is that alright

 

[benrrosegas]

Dry valve, no need to drain! You'll fathom out what is supose to happen when you take the head off, promise 🙂

okay lol thanks

 

[JAP&H]

You don't need to drain to remove the actuator.

Drop PCB panel into service or down position remove plug from actuator.

Twist anti clockwise to remove.

Put plug back in power on then alternate between water and heating demand whilst watching actuator innards for movement.

No movement actuator fault. Actuator motoring then valve fault.

You can attempt to gently move diverter pin. Pulled out = rest = HW.

Pushed in = heating. May be crud preventing valve from resting fully in HW position.

 

[desrob]

yh i am ive recently qualified and im learning okay, is that alright

thats alright.

 

[benrrosegas]

if it is the valve its self can u just replace the cartridge or should i replace the whole valve

 

[benrrosegas]

You don't need to drain to remove the actuator.

Drop PCB panel into service or down position remove plug from actuator.

Twist anti clockwise to remove.

Put plug back in power on then alternate between water and heating demand whilst watching actuator innards for movement.

No movement actuator fault. Actuator motoring then valve fault.

You can attempt to gently move diverter pin. Pulled out = rest = HW.

Pushed in = heating. May be crud preventing valve from resting fully in HW position.

thanks if it is the divertor can i replace the cartridge or do i have to replace the whole valve

 

[AWheating]

yh i am ive recently qualified and im learning okay, is that alright

not a problem. 🙂

you should join the gas safe registered forum, only GS guys and girls allowed and tonns of posts we all learn from.

 

[diamondgas]

Who's paying? Cartridge is a lot less expensive! They're my preferred option, just clean the seating of crud and lube up 🙂

 

[JAP&H]

Who's paying? Cartridge is a lot less expensive! They're my preferred option, just clean the seating of crud and lube up 🙂

Agree with Diamond.

 

[benrrosegas]

hi took the actuator head off, changed between demands, no movement of the spring or anythink so must be the actuator, thanks all, been a great help

 

[JAP&H]

Hi Ben

There are two actuators that are available, grey top and red top.

Either take the old one to the merchants to get a match, or note all the numbers down.

Nothing worse than turning up with wrong bit.