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S

stocksie

My bathroom/wetroom has been finished for some time now but the floor is very cold.

It's a bungalow and the floor joists were rotten in the bathroom so they wer replaced and 80 mm kingspan wedged in between them.

I didn't like the inefficency of elec underfloor heating and did have the money or inclanation to underfloor heat the lot in a wet system.

I can gain accesss to the underfloor void and pull the kingspan out and am thinking of drilling 20mm holes through the joists as near as I can to the weyrock floor screwed to them and running some 15 mm PB Speedfit without any joints in and tee the 2 ends in to the 22mm flow and return.Replace the kingspan , so keeping the speedfit in place.

I know this is not ideal but would it work and be practical.

I'd intend to use 2 of the pipe support clips where the pipe makes a u shape and could use nail clips elsewhere although I'd have to cut the nail down a bit I think.

Any ideas would be appreciated.
 
The bungalow when finished will be a 2 zone heating system so I'd be fine with that being all the control I had over the heat in the bathroom.
 
and there is regulations on drilling the joists, so you would weken thejoists by drilling too many holes
 
I'm aware of the regs on drilling and notching joists as I'm a self employed spark so that doesn't worry me.

But over heat the floor ....REALLY ? When it's slate tiled and cold as the Arctic.

As there will be a gap around the pipe this gives and air pocket that would need to be heated unlike the proper system where the pipe sits in the slot in the pre made foil board.
 
typical , ask for advice and then doesnt take it! off you go old son and see what happens in the long term, lifting tiles, flip flops in the bathroom etc etc but you know better
 
No I don't know better thats why I'm asking and second guessing as it seemed unlikely in my mind.
A deeper explanation would not have made me respond as many times and lovely attitude ...cheers.
When you lot come onto the elec forum and ask Q's, I wouldn't reply in such a manner and am sure most of the other sparks would give you the credit of being a similar trade.
 
At what temp does the water circulate in the CH pipes approx ?

Could I not use talon clips so keeping a 8mm or so gap from the underside of the weyrock and given the 20mm gap from the floor underside to the top surface of the kingspan or is this all a def no no ?

Just seems hard to believe.

UF heating pack or nowt then ?
 
stick your hand on the flow off a boiler then consider what that would be like under your tiles and you may start to get the picture. your idea isnt a good one and post 3 was clear and concise re your question. Prehaps you should tell the world your a sparks in your opening post then we could really have had a tease. No offense but its not a great idea and I hope youve never seen anything like it in your work out there.
 
It's the same on the elec forum but in all honesty I get along great with all the Plumbers I meet. It's just one-up-manship I think.

What about if I put a temp probe in the void operating a zone zone valve, any more feesible ?
 
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either put in a proper uf heat pack using mixer valves and temp contol or bin the idea completely, there is no cheap option or everyone would be doing it
 
Ok then I'll put it to bed.

It's still feesible to do the work from underneath like explained in the OP though ? I know it will be a ball ache though.

I can run the pipes back to the boiler 'Y plan'

Can the JG Undeffloor heating unit be used without room stats ? As in use the thermostatic mixer on the unit?
 
Whats the difference between the JG Underfloor heating unit and
JG Underfloor Pump control pack ?

They both look to have a pump and a thermostatic valve ?

They look like single zone types which is whats needed.

Cheers
 
They do both have pumps.

If you're trying to do this totally on the cheap (which is never good!!) then you'll want to at least fit a thermomix valve to the flow/return. Otherwise you'll be dancing on the floor to stop burning your feet and all the tiles will start to lift. A quick chat in a helpful plumbers merchants and you could pick up a suitable valve with fittings for about £60. It's still a bodge though in fairness.
 

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