Issues with British Gas UP2 controller - advice needed please

[reflectingme]

Hello all


I am hoping someone might be able to offer me some advice regarding my faulty UP2 central heating controller.


I am quite disappointed, as it is a new replacement CH installation (apart from rads) purchased from and installed by British Gas just 3 years ago. However, despite my thinking 3 years is a very short time for the life of a controller, because I am no longer on their (very expensive) care plan, British Gas are not offering to do anything about it. So, here's my dilemma...


The controller works for the hot water, but not for the central heating, but only when it is turned on in a strange manner. I have to press the 'select' button so the Hot Water LED is lit (i.e. in the TIMED, ONCE or ON position) and then I have to press the Heating select button all the way from off, through TIMED (when the Hot Water then turns on) through the ONCE and ON positions and back to the off position. The Hot Water then remains on for whatever times it has been set for.


However, this does not work for the Heating. I have a few times managed to get the heating on after many minutes of random button pressing, but this evening I am unable to do so - and it's getting cold!!!!


So, at the moment I can't really afford a replacement (though I admit I may have to) and so what I want to do is to amend the wiring at the rear junction box, so that it only uses the relay/switch of the Hot Water connections - so that I can then at least have both Hot Water AND Heating on at the same time - albeit without individual controls.


I am happy with wiring, and will power down etc, but want to make sure I amend the correct connections.


Referring to the schematic diagram on the rear of the controller, is it simply a case of removing the cables out of 4 and into 3, as well as out of 2 and into 1?


Any advice appreciated, thanks all.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

why not just change the controller simple plug and play have a look at drayton lifestyle series you want a 2 channel about £60 and done

 

[melmos]

agree with Shaun, buy s new one. If you look at back plate there aren't any wires in 1 and 2 to move
Ave you checked if diverter valve is operating

 

[reflectingme]

Yes Melmos, you are absolutely right. I was initially comparing the cable holder with the back plate and it isn't the same at all.

I would buy a new controller but I don't want to do this only to find out it isn't the controller that is faulty. How do I check if the diverter valve is faulty?

 

[jtsplumbing]

Yes Melmos, you are absolutely right. I was initially comparing the cable holder with the back plate and it isn't the same at all.

I would buy a new controller but I don't want to do this only to find out it isn't the controller that is faulty. How do I check if the diverter valve is faulty?

Quite simple !! call someone out who knows what they are doing, wiring seems a bit of a mess

 

[reflectingme]

Quite simple !! call someone out who knows what they are doing, wiring seems a bit of a mess

This is what was installed by British Gas! I've not touched it.

 

[melmos]

Having read your initial post correctly, I see that you have problems setting the hot water as well, though it does work. I would try replacing the programmer, go to your local screwfix, item no 26078 £48.87, give it a try and if it doesn't cure the problem , just take it back for a full refund. Agree with JTS, wiring doesn't follow guidelines.

 

[gassafe]

Having read your initial post correctly, I see that you have problems setting the hot water as well, though it does work. I would try replacing the programmer, go to your local screwfix, item no 26078 £48.87, give it a try and if it doesn't cure the problem , just take it back for a full refund. Agree with JTS, wiring doesn't follow guidelines.

No thanks, I don't want to buy the programmer after some diy'er chancer

 

[gassafe]

Probably wired with 2 2 port valves...

Pretty common for drayton programmer to fail. When the heating will not kick in try tapping the programmer, often the relays stick & it will fire into life! If your on a budget eBay often have cheap 5/2 day programmers

 

[reflectingme]

No thanks, I don't want to buy the programmer after some diy'er chancer

Gassafe, take it easy on me please... have you not read my thread. I have not touched the wiring at all... this is how it was installed - only 3 yrs ago - by British Gas.

 

[Robert Tyrrell]

That wiring looks as though it was done by one of the BG sparkies and not by a heating engineer. It's definitely not the way a heating engineer would normally wire it but hey ho, it might be a Friday afternoon job 🙂
As for the programmer:- I've just replaced one on an old oil system (Yes it was a BG one on an oil system - I don't know how it got there either but it was there) and they are just rebranded Drayton LP112 or LP241, depending on your HW/CH setup.

 

[doitmyself]

It may not be the programmer.

Do you have a motorized valve (usually near the HW cylinder) like this? Note there are three pipes attached,

 

[ShaunCorbs]

It may not be the programmer.

Do you have a motorized valve (usually near the HW cylinder) like this? Note there are three pipes attached,

if the led wont come on for heating then its the prog

 

[reflectingme]

It may not be the programmer.

Do you have a motorized valve (usually near the HW cylinder) like this? Note there are three pipes attached,

Will look shortly.. need to move wardrobe!

 

[reflectingme]

Will look shortly.. need to move wardrobe!

LED comes on... relay doesn't switch contacts though!

 

[Dan-HybridHeat]

Have you tested the room stat? If the LED is coming on on the heating but no contacts are switching it could be a fault with that?

 

[Robert Tyrrell]

Yep, just because the led is on it doesn't meant that the actuator is working as it should. I've seen it where there is power from the programmer to the actuator it it's just stuck and doesn't want to shift. Synchronous motor gives up and you have to change the actuator