kinked, crimped and coiled 8mm pipework

[1animal1]

Unless it's mid run on the 8mm then there isn't one, I'll just fit two lockshields on a rad . I'm sure the pre prepped unvented will have one, won't it?

One other question... Fitting a new 22mm pipe, hole in the beam or notches in the top? Which is most viable and professional?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Unless it's mid run on the 8mm then there isn't one, I'll just fit two lockshields on a rad . I'm sure the pre prepped unvented will have one, won't it?

One other question... Fitting a new 22mm pipe, hole in the beam or notches in the top? Which is most viable and professional?

if you hole will need to be drill from the center of the joist (unless your plastic or take a brick out you wont do it in copper)

and re the unvented you will need a g3 plumber to install that

 

[1animal1]

No probs, I'm thinking for the hot water pipe that my plumber asked me to install from the new site to the airing cupboard. I'm going to run the 22mm a bit further than he suggested and route some to the bath too, that way less wasted hot water than going through the old pipes - I'll be using barrier so holes may be best.

He is accredited to fit the unvented 🙂

 

[1animal1]

Is it worth running 22mm to the bath hot tap from an unvented? Or is this overkill?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Is it worth running 22mm to the bath hot tap from an unvented? Or is this overkill?

will give you better flow and i would if you could

 

[rpm]

Is it worth running 22mm to the bath hot tap from an unvented? Or is this overkill?

Aren`t bath taps 22mm rather than 15mm?

 

[1animal1]

It's going to get a 22mm riser, then 6 -7 metres to the airing cupboard in 15mm. It passes the bathroom along the way so seemed a good idea. Just wasn't sure on flow rates.... Cheers Shaun

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Aren`t bath taps 22mm rather than 15mm?

they are but half the time people just use a 15mm - 3/4 flex / tap connector

 

[1animal1]

Aren`t bath taps 22mm rather than 15mm?

No idea, my last lot of surface mounted taps and overflow filler were 15mm...

 

[rpm]

No idea, my last lot of surface mounted taps and overflow filler were 15mm...

Sure someone will advise you. Thought bath was 22 & basin 15mm

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Sure someone will advise you. Thought bath was 22 & basin 15mm

well 3/4 and 1/2 but your right 😀

 

[rpm]

well 3/4 and 1/2 but your right 😀

Talking pipe size not BSP tap size, but sure you knew that.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Talking pipe size not BSP tap size, but sure you knew that.

😀 hoping you would spend a bit of time thinking wtf, cant pull the wool over your eyes 😉

 

[rpm]

😀 hoping you would spend a bit of time thinking wtf, cant pull the wool over your eyes 😉

I`m sure you will one day Shaun, I don`t pretend to know it all even with +25yrs experience of water & pumps. lol

 

[1animal1]

Out of pure curiosity. What would it cost me in the region of for an upstairs repipe and the extra 7-8 metres of water section to be fitted in copper by a plumber. I know there must be many variables, just wondering for a medium sized 4 bed.

 

[1animal1]

Can you chaps help please 🙂

I'm just working out where my 3 22mm pipes will enter the garage where the boiler and cylinder will be sited. I've looked into the calculations for notching and or drilling joints and trying to work out the best path. The rear of the garage is a simple breeze block so gather the boiler would have to be on the outside wall...

My question is, as the joist above the rear garage wall runs proud. It means that if I drop my pipes by notches, then they will enter the garage through the ceiling about 3-4 inch from the wall. Easily sorted with a few 90's, however I'm just wondering if that will hinder the flow much with it being so close to a few 90's so early on

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Can you chaps help please 🙂

I'm just working out where my 3 22mm pipes will enter the garage where the boiler and cylinder will be sited. I've looked into the calculations for notching and or drilling joints and trying to work out the best path. The rear of the garage is a simple breeze block so gather the boiler would have to be on the outside wall...

My question is, as the joist above the rear garage wall runs proud. It means that if I drop my pipes by notches, then they will enter the garage through the ceiling about 3-4 inch from the wall. Easily sorted with a few 90's, however I'm just wondering if that will hinder the flow much with it being so close to a few 90's so early on

Use two 45 and make an offset

 

[1animal1]

Thanks Shaun, I can't see a way around it without hacking the joists and adding even more bends to get them beneath the joists, which I'd obviously like to avoid.

One thing on the joist calcs, it mentions minimum and maximum distance from the ends as to where you can notch. Is there any issues doing one big notch at Max depth (23mm) for two of the 22mm's? With a bit of underlay between them

 

[PhoenixServices]

Depending on the thickness and depth of the joist, that should've done. Most flow+ returns for heating are run like this.

 

[1animal1]

Thanks phoenix, they are 8inch joists @ 2.6m across, apologies for the curious cross measurements.

Calculator I used gives me 2 or 3 mm extra over the depth of the 22mm to avoid the boards above. One cut was done near the end of the joist 50mm from the minimum safe by the original fitter for a piece of 15mm, so I thought rather than cut a third notch, just expand that one given its already there