kinked, crimped and coiled 8mm pipework

[1animal1]

Thanks Shaun...

Here's a picture of the landing area... The white hot water pipe doesn't look great and I can't fit the clips I've bought. Will it be OK or would you dig the notches a bit more and fit clips to neaten it up. I used notches that must have been used for a previous installation.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

use a multi tool and clip it and use nail ons (talon make some good ones)

 

[Best]

I would repipe everything if it was my house. I probably would do new notches in proper places if floorboards not being replaced with sheeting.
Notching elsewhere isn't going to weaken already notched joists

 

[1animal1]

I'll get some of those bought. I've a bag full of the clip in type which sit a little too proud.

It takes some planning this plumbing lark! I'm going to have to cut more floor boards out, where the 8mm hits the manifold's next. It looks like they were installed before the boards went down. All good fun!

 

[1animal1]

I would repipe everything if it was my house. I probably would do new notches in proper places if floorboards not being replaced with sheeting.
Notching elsewhere isn't going to weaken already notched joists

The only part that's staying is the 22 you can see in that run. With one piece being lengthened to the new boiler site. I'm not too concerned about the 22mm, more worried about the 8mm I've got running to the majority of rads. I've deleted a rad in the larger bedroom now and bought a type 22 to increase the size of the remaining one - that deletion removed about 10 metres of 15mm, tied to the end of that 15mm run you can see in the picture, which is also going eventually.

Here's a bit of 65% efficient nostalgia for you... Since I've now learnt to tag pics from my phone 🙂

 

[1animal1]

Ps I'm only replacing the odd board. I'm not a fan of the chip sheets. Horrible stuff

 

[1animal1]

What size auger would you guys recommend. I've set aside a 16mm stubby but not sure it'll do the trick. I'm essentially drilling a double joist below a wall (which is why I can't notch). The plastic 15mm will run the length of one joist before being bent at 90 degrees to go into the hole into the adjacent room. The bend will be formed over the width of the joists so shouldn't crimp.

I've also got a brand new set of flat wood hole cutters. Would these not be suitable or is the auger a must

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Auger and 20-25mm would be fine for 15mm

16mm would be OK as well but a bit tight but ok

 

[1animal1]

If you guys were running 15mm plastic down a 3 metre joist, how often would you pin it.... I ask as the lengths can be secured at both ends leaving it suspended against the joist I'd rather not cut out more boards than is necessary.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Every 12 inches but under floor every 24 inches would be fine

 

[Best]

I am thinking it is supposed to be clipped every 300mm. Good luck with that.
Copper for me, so only need to support it or clip it every 1.2 or 2 metres.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I am thinking it is supposed to be clipped every 300mm. Good luck with that.
Copper for me, so only need to support it or clip it every 1.2 or 2 metres.

Every 600mm for me looks better (copper)

 

[Worcester]

From the MI's :

Recommended Clip Spacing:
For surface mounted pipes.

Pipe Diameter / Clip Spacing: Horizontal Run / Vertical Run
Dia: 10 - 15mm H: 300mm V: 500mm
Dia: 22mm H: 500mm V: 800mm
Dia: 28mm H: 800mm V: 1,000mm

 

[1animal1]

Thanks all! Looks like I'll have to lift a few more board than expected

 

[1animal1]

Hers the final run for one of the rads, it proved very difficult to get in and secure the clips whilst lifting minimal boards. Not a perfect job by any stretch but having entered the joist cavity through centrally placed holes, I had to hit one side before rebounding back ready to hit the exit holes... Ocd sufferers turn away now

 

[1animal1]

What's the general consensus for a pipe entering a joist cavity through a hole and the rad pipe being on the same joist. Would you bend the jg pipe to the other joist and back towards where the 90 will go up through the floor, or would you put a 90 as it exits the hole, run the pipe along that joist to another 90, and then up to the rad. I'm thinking the first option, clipped on both joists as it'll be less joints... Although look atad messy

 

[1animal1]

Another update if anyone's interested 🙂 a lot neater job this time although seemingly unavoidable spaghetti junction at the end of the joists.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Much better but need to get your end bits sorted now

 

[1animal1]

Cheers Shaun. Just fitting the rads now. Planning on pulling the one pipe that is overlapping at the end, the rest aren't touching so should be good... Or will I be OK leaving that overlapping pipe

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Cheers Shaun. Just fitting the rads now. Planning on pulling the one pipe that is overlapping at the end, the rest aren't touching so should be good... Or will I be OK leaving that overlapping pipe

Really you don't want them touching even if you put 2 pieces of lagging on each pipe if they still are would be better than nothing

 

[1animal1]

All sorted Shaun

 

[ShaunCorbs]

What's the copper 10mm for ?

 

[1animal1]

That's the original 8mm which I've now pulled out, that was the last piece.... Figured get the new stuff in and working before removing the old and refitting the boards. I've had to fit a straight rad valve in the en suite as still need to work out where the new towel rad will go. So figured fitting the trv will allow me to get rid of trapped air in that pipe run for now