kinked, crimped and coiled 8mm pipework

[1animal1]

Will do, I'm going to put it together again before posting, to give it some scale. Currently the pump and electric switch for the hot water/rads reside in the airing cupboard, but they will be in the garage with the new set up... The diagram will show everything 🙂

 

[1animal1]

This is the best i could knock together, apologies for the messy writing. All rads are fed by the 8mm manifolds apart from the bedroom above where the boiler sits - these two rads have a 15mm run to the tail of the main rad feed - all pipes on this map are the 22mm main feed, 22mm rad feed, 22mm rad return and the hot water return from the cylinder coil which taps into the rad return.

The airing cupboard house the vent pipes, the pump and electronic valve.

I was proposing putting in place a 22mm pipe to meet the rad feed which stops at the top of the stairs - the new boiler/cylinder will be in the garage which is on the same wall as the current boiler. The main feed and hot water return can then be removed from the system once the new system is in.

 

[jtsplumbing]

Is there any reason why you cant reposition radiators ? the bottom 3 seem a long way from main pipe runs, new radiators don't have to be under windows,

 

[1animal1]

They are pretty long runs. The main bedroom definitely can't be changed as the rad sits in a bay window , the rest of the walls are taken. Ironically this is the longest run at about 5 metres.

The two smaller bedrooms off the landing could be looked at, but the run is already in place and the only thing I'm saving is a few metres of pipe.

I was going to ask about the bedroom above the boiler, it has two rads connected via 15mm to the 22mm rad feed. Obviously if I extend the rad feed then these rads will have their pipework reduced. But I can't help but think that if I remove the furthest small rad it'll remove unnecessary pipes and joints... I'll measure the rooms/windows/rad sizes and post up if that would be useful as a gauge?

 

[jtsplumbing]

Are all these rads fed by 8mm pipe, maybe you could extend 22mm to rad in big bedroom then 15mm along into other 2 bedrooms keeping inline with rads if you don't want to re-site them

 

[1animal1]

Yeah, they all 8mm bar the two in the end room. Because I'll be laying the pipe to that end room for a more direct boiler feed, then it would be very easy for my plumber to tie in the larger rad above the boiler, removing a good few metres of pipe as that rad would be on top of the new extended 22mm feed.

My only concern is the size of that room. It's 6.5x2.6 with a k1 600x1100 directly opposite the door, in the map it's slightly off as it would have obscured the boiler. It also has a k1 600x600 under the window

The window is only 1m square.... Double glazed

 

[jtsplumbing]

Usely find radiators under windows a waste of time, people tend to cover with curtains, can you not do away with this rad and upsize the other one

 

[1animal1]

Yep definitely, that was going to be one of my questions eventually 🙂 what I might do is lengthen the 22mm feed, tapping into that with the enlarged rad, and then cap the 22 off where I know my plumber will be jointing above the new boiler. That way I can install it all now for minimal disruption when he comes.

What would you do re this rad in the large room? Change to K2 similar size?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Best to work the room heat loss out and add 10%

 

[1animal1]

No probs, I found a good link for a calculator, will give that a go.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Yea there's a few out there just do more than one and compare results

 

[1animal1]

I see what you mean, I've tried 3 so far, 3200, 4200 & 3700btu!

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I see what you mean, I've tried 3 so far, 3200, 4200 & 3700btu!

🙂 3700 btu just over 1kw is the average

 

[1animal1]

Thanks! 😀

I didn't expect them to vary that much!

 

[1animal1]

Upon closer inspection of one of the manifold's, it appears that 2 of the 4 branches double back to the return manifold. Therefore the massive crimping session that's gone on is obviously to reduce flow, but leave enough for it to act as a relief valve.... I was under the impression that the way to add a relief valve was to fit at least one rad with no trv, only lockshields?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

yes on full systems you have two choices either fit an auto bypass or fit one rad with lockshields ie normally a bathroom

 

[1animal1]

So him crimping a bypass pipe constitutes an auto bypass or have I had bodge it n scarper fit this system?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

So him crimping a bypass pipe constitutes an auto bypass or have I had bodge it n scarper fit this system?

if theres no valve on it they have bodged it

 

[1animal1]

I haven't discovered one yet. Where's the most likely place for one?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I haven't discovered one yet. Where's the most likely place for one?

should be on the 8mm if there is one

if not put a auto bypass on best place would be after the pump but before the motorized valve and in 22mm