The only way I can see it working is to put a backplate elbow in the wall and get the boarders to put it flush to the front and use a chrome male iron
Or soldered fitting
Or soldered fitting
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- Thread starter David Lowth
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View the thread, titled "New build first fix help needed" which is posted in UK Plumbers Forums on UK Plumbers Forums.
Ok, ill swap for 22 cold going to the two bathrooms.
Ive pretty much got the next two weeks. Just want to make sure its done correctly before starting.
If i can find some 8000s btu rads will that take 10mm pipe so i can do it all in 22 and 10?
The room requirement is 15,500 btus the only reason we picked two 10,000s was because they were a good price for what they were and matched the other rads.
Is the other alternative to do 15mm copper and solder in the walls and give up on the idea of only chrome showing
Ive pretty much got the next two weeks. Just want to make sure its done correctly before starting.
If i can find some 8000s btu rads will that take 10mm pipe so i can do it all in 22 and 10?
The room requirement is 15,500 btus the only reason we picked two 10,000s was because they were a good price for what they were and matched the other rads.
Is the other alternative to do 15mm copper and solder in the walls and give up on the idea of only chrome showing
Thats great, thanks for your advice
What boiler ?
No boiler yet, wss going to be a Worcester or glo worm combi but changer of gas engineer now so have none at the moment.
2 heating zones? I dont understand. The larger room at the back has a vaulted ceiling but just has 2 rads in it.. sorry only one on this plan, but needs a second one added as 15,500 btu room
2 heating zones? I dont understand. The larger room at the back has a vaulted ceiling but just has 2 rads in it.. sorry only one on this plan, but needs a second one added as 15,500 btu room
M
Murdoch
Gobsmacked ..... diy on parts that can’t easily be upgraded or replaced without major surgery on the property ......
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M
MOSSEP
You could use 10mm copper micro bore in the wall rather than plastic, that way you can have soldered joints in the wall rather than compression / push fit.
Thanks for the information. This is exactly why im on here
I see..
I will be getting another gas engineer to install the boiler etc, but in the mean time i can chase out walls and get the first fix in place so the walls can be dot and dabbed and its not holding everything up for months
I will be getting another gas engineer to install the boiler etc, but in the mean time i can chase out walls and get the first fix in place so the walls can be dot and dabbed and its not holding everything up for months
Im actively looking for one.. but just cant have weeks of downtime waiting for their schedule to be free..
Im real annoyed with the current one going awol, but it is what it is and you live and you learn i guess
Unless you know of any.. or fancy a trip to ringwood yourself haha
Im real annoyed with the current one going awol, but it is what it is and you live and you learn i guess
Unless you know of any.. or fancy a trip to ringwood yourself haha
Yes, where are you based?
This is how I do it no joins in the wall and can be dot and dabbed over . Cheers kop
22mm on H&C's as far as you can. 22mm loop with 15mm drops to rads in copper. If it's all being dot and dabbed then drops can be hessian wrapped and clipped to block/brick behind boards. If you want chrome only on show file off enough chrome plate to solder it into the fitting. Cap it all and pressure test..Happy days🙂
Yes mate 10mm I have done it with 15mm from a loft void as below , but the first post was a refurb on two flats above a shop the walls were dot and dabbed over with insulated plaster board then skimmed there are no joins other than the manifold in the hallway cupboard just made sense as the floor voids were insulated with rockwool the boards put back , 10mm ply laid on top then a plank type vinyl flooring laid. Kop
Would you care to explain your disagreement x David. Regards kop
Hey Kop, sorry mate, my fat fingers! Didnt mean to press that!
I was gonna write i totally get why you are the king of pipes! Very tidy work. Great stuff.
So after much consideration i think im going bite the bullet and chase and solder 15mm copper to chrome in the walls and pressure test before dot and dab.. although really like the look of that 10mm work..
I have a final question regarding zoning..
The bungalow is 110m2 but believe it may still need zoning.
The living space is just 3 rads, the rest in bedrooms or bathrooms.
Am i right in thinking i can tee off the 22 flow from the boiler to feed these 3 rads and just tee the return back into the return for the bedroom / bathroom rads?
Can Etrv valves be used as a zoning alternative? Are they building regs compliant, and essentially plumb in up as originally planned above. One flow and return feeding all rads?
I was gonna write i totally get why you are the king of pipes! Very tidy work. Great stuff.
So after much consideration i think im going bite the bullet and chase and solder 15mm copper to chrome in the walls and pressure test before dot and dab.. although really like the look of that 10mm work..
I have a final question regarding zoning..
The bungalow is 110m2 but believe it may still need zoning.
The living space is just 3 rads, the rest in bedrooms or bathrooms.
Am i right in thinking i can tee off the 22 flow from the boiler to feed these 3 rads and just tee the return back into the return for the bedroom / bathroom rads?
Can Etrv valves be used as a zoning alternative? Are they building regs compliant, and essentially plumb in up as originally planned above. One flow and return feeding all rads?
Each to their own mate either way will work think I would use the drayton wiser system to zone it up they are building regs compliant cheers kop
Any particular reason the pipes couldn't come out from floor straight in to valves on the first picture
Yes mate the 10mm collapses and kinks .
Any particular reason the pipes couldn't come out from floor straight in to valves on the first picture
i mean straight up from the floor in 15mm copper seems pointless putting them in the wall when you don’t have to or am I missing something
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