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I like pipe-in-pipe down the walls (and my Hilti wall chaser), does anyone else do that?
 
In regards to new builds requiring zoning I'm working on a Cala development with a minimum of 5 bed house and not one house type is zoned. Where as the site i was on before was 1/2 bed social housing and was zoned. Zone 1 was living room, kitchen, bathroom & hall. Zone 2 bedroom. Seemed pointless to me at the time.
 
In regards to new builds requiring zoning I'm working on a Cala development with a minimum of 5 bed house and not one house type is zoned. Where as the site i was on before was 1/2 bed social housing and was zoned. Zone 1 was living room, kitchen, bathroom & hall. Zone 2 bedroom. Seemed pointless to me at the time.
Has any house been finished/signed off yet? I'd bring it to the developers attention, remember that if your installing the systems, it's up to you to make sure they comply with the latest requirements.
 
Has any house been finished/signed off yet? I'd bring it to the developers attention, remember that if your installing the systems, it's up to you to make sure they comply with the latest requirements.
Yeah mate, there a into the 3rd phase with other 100 houses signed and handed over. The system is ASHP with hyprid boiler with an unvented indirect cylinder. I've not asked the agent yet but i think it's more to do with SEDBUK rating witch CH zoning obvisouly improbe as does ASHP. I'll find out more. I'm in Scotland also which might make a difference.
 
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Reactions: Rob Foster
Burying pipes in a wall is expensive in both the short and long term.

Short term you haven’t got space to properly insulate them meaning a fair portion of your heat will be lost into walls/brickwork.

Long term you’re going to have to rip the room apart if ever you need access.

I dug about 50m of heating pipe out of the wall in our last house and ran properly insulated under the floor. Saved us about 20% on heating bills.

If it were my forever home I’d be avoiding plastic pipe if at all possible.
 
Have been sadly let down by a plumber and doing the first fix for a new build. I have questions regarding the correct procedure for chasing in pipework behind what will be dot and dabbed..

Its 3 bed bungalow with 9 radiators in total.

I was planning on running lagged plastic22mm flow / returns in the roof space to and tee off 15s for each radiator. Some of which are underneath windows.

1. How deep do you usually chase when its being dot and dabbed? And do you also just take a notch out of the wall plate?

2. Would you chase one larger channel and run both pipes in the same place?
Does the plastic need to be insulated or ducted in some way so it could potentially be removed at a later date?

3. The rads will be attached to chrome.. would compression fittings with liquid ptfe be ok to use to connect the chrome to plastic? But obvioulsy this wont be able to be removed at a later date without pulling the wall apart.

4. How would you chase it in? Straight line down the wall with an elbow at rad pipe height?

Finally anything else ive overlooked / missing? How would you usually approach this job?

Thanks in advance for any help

1. Speak to the boarder usually around 15mm cavity, I wouldn't cut through any wall plates joist hangers ect.. Take the most direct route, keeping joints to a minimum

2. You can insulate pipes in a wall chase but there might not be any meat left on the block, example a 22mm pipe with 13mm lagging with an extra 5 mm to cover over the pipe would be a 40mm deep chase, in ceiling voids I insulate if it's being chase in the wall I don't, ducting is a good idea and is great in a concrete floor wouldn't use it in walls unless it was a data cable for a shower that has a processor

3. I prefer to solder on chrome, file the chrome off make sure it's very clean and solder an elbow onto it with clean copper, and push the copper into a couplin, that's the only time I put an extra joint in the wall

4. Find the most direct route, but keep away from where people hang pictures, where door hinges are (I had a chippy put a 4 inch screw!! through a heating pipe), you're normally OK though) avoid where the skirting will go.

I use hep20 and test 1.5x working pressure for 45mins. 10 bar for 45mins where pressure is not know yet (new water main ect..) waivin suggest 18 bar with no appliances connect but I have yet to try this for good reason lol I trust there push fit caps but not that much
 

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