New build first fix help needed

[king of pipes]

This is how I do it no joins in the wall and can be dot and dabbed over . Cheers kop

 

[Riley]

Is that 10mm kop

 

[Tim S]

22mm on H&C's as far as you can. 22mm loop with 15mm drops to rads in copper. If it's all being dot and dabbed then drops can be hessian wrapped and clipped to block/brick behind boards. If you want chrome only on show file off enough chrome plate to solder it into the fitting. Cap it all and pressure test..Happy days🙂

 

[king of pipes]

Yes mate 10mm I have done it with 15mm from a loft void as below , but the first post was a refurb on two flats above a shop the walls were dot and dabbed over with insulated plaster board then skimmed there are no joins other than the manifold in the hallway cupboard just made sense as the floor voids were insulated with rockwool the boards put back , 10mm ply laid on top then a plank type vinyl flooring laid. Kop

 

[king of pipes]

This is how I do it no joins in the wall and can be dot and dabbed over . Cheers kop

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Would you care to explain your disagreement x David. Regards kop

 

[David Lowth]

Hey Kop, sorry mate, my fat fingers! Didnt mean to press that!

I was gonna write i totally get why you are the king of pipes! Very tidy work. Great stuff.

So after much consideration i think im going bite the bullet and chase and solder 15mm copper to chrome in the walls and pressure test before dot and dab.. although really like the look of that 10mm work..

I have a final question regarding zoning..

The bungalow is 110m2 but believe it may still need zoning.
The living space is just 3 rads, the rest in bedrooms or bathrooms.
Am i right in thinking i can tee off the 22 flow from the boiler to feed these 3 rads and just tee the return back into the return for the bedroom / bathroom rads?

Can Etrv valves be used as a zoning alternative? Are they building regs compliant, and essentially plumb in up as originally planned above. One flow and return feeding all rads?

 

[king of pipes]

Each to their own mate either way will work think I would use the drayton wiser system to zone it up they are building regs compliant cheers kop

 

[Nick Cox]

This is how I do it no joins in the wall and can be dot and dabbed over . Cheers kop

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Any particular reason the pipes couldn't come out from floor straight in to valves on the first picture

 

[king of pipes]

Yes mate the 10mm collapses and kinks .

 

[Nick Cox]

This is how I do it no joins in the wall and can be dot and dabbed over . Cheers kop

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Any particular reason the pipes couldn't come out from floor straight in to valves on the first picture

Yes mate the 10mm collapses and kinks .

i mean straight up from the floor in 15mm copper seems pointless putting them in the wall when you don’t have to or am I missing something

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Any particular reason the pipes couldn't come out from floor straight in to valves on the first picture

i mean straight up from the floor in 15mm copper seems pointless putting them in the wall when you don’t have to or am I missing something

guess customer didnt want to see the pipes

 

[Sharp Point]

Yes mate 10mm I have done it with 15mm from a loft void as below , but the first post was a refurb on two flats above a shop the walls were dot and dabbed over with insulated plaster board then skimmed there are no joins other than the manifold in the hallway cupboard just made sense as the floor voids were insulated with rockwool the boards put back , 10mm ply laid on top then a plank type vinyl flooring laid. Kop

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Nice neat work KOP, did you have sore neck from crouching and bending doing that?😱

 

[king of pipes]

Nice neat work KOP, did you have sore neck from crouching and bending doing that?😱

I survived bud not a big fan of plastic I will only use hep2o , as I said before with all the layers of floor materials and the walls being insulated I though that was best joins in the pipework were kept to a minimum and pipework was all hidden away . Kop

 

[Toby emery]

Take 15mm in the ceiling then use 2 x 15mm elbows with 10mm reducers above where the radiator is, then take the 10mm to the rad positions using a junction box to hold them in place. No fittings in the wall, make sure you nail clip the 10mm to wall with hair felt behind the 10mm for protection against the block work.

It works perfectly, been doing it for years and never had problems with flow rate.

Also it can be 1 zone as under 150m2. Part L 2014 got rid of that rule. Over 150m2 must be zoned.

 

[Riley]

All new build must be zoned

 

[Toby emery]

No, not since April 2014.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

No, not since April 2014.

Yes they do also in Wales sprinkler system must be fitted

 

[Aire]

No, not since April 2014.

That depends on house size and it doesn't say zones aren't required, it's says trvs at a minimum are deemed acceptable for zoning.

 

[Toby emery]

Yes if it’s over 150m2 it’ll need to be zoned and controlled by two different room stats linked to 2 port valves.

Well yes Trv’s are a must anyway, but being 110m2 it doesn’t need to be zoned via 2 port valves which is what people are implying by saying all new builds must be zoned.

 

[Aire]

Yes if it’s over 150m2 it’ll need to be zoned and controlled by two different room stats linked to 2 port valves.

Well yes Trv’s are a must anyway, but being 110m2 it doesn’t need to be zoned via 2 port valves which is what people are implying by saying all new builds must be zoned.

Yes so if your below 150m2 then trvs only are fine. That's the way I understand the regs anyway.