Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws
View the thread, titled "outdoor kitchen water supply" which is posted in DIY Plumbing Advice on UK Plumbers Forums.
Inside should have (in order from mains inlet):
1. Double check valve.
2. Isolation valve.
3. Tee to outside tap.
4. Drain off point.
Outside should have (in order from inside):
1. The outside tap. If new and double check valve fitted inside property, no check valve within tap.
2. If appropriate (depending on pipe runs), further drain off point.
1. Double check valve.
2. Isolation valve.
3. Tee to outside tap.
4. Drain off point.
Outside should have (in order from inside):
1. The outside tap. If new and double check valve fitted inside property, no check valve within tap.
2. If appropriate (depending on pipe runs), further drain off point.
Yes, should be sleeved through wall. I tend to try to avoid the need for drain valves as they are only an additional item and source of maintenance work that most customers will never make use of anyway. Sometimes the water can be run down to the outside tap and then the tap can act as the drain-off point, but it depends on the circumstances. I also tend to isolate before the check valve rather than after, but I can't swear I'm doing it right.
This is assuming the OP is talking about an outside tap in the UK for use with a handheld hose to spray fresh water on the garden etc. and not for sprinkler systems, soaker hoses, use with pesticides or similar in which case a double check valve is considered insufficient backflow protection. But if he's American, our UK-legistlation-centric comments aren't all that useful really, though they may give some idea.
To be honest, I thought the OP was talking about an outside kitchen, so I'm wondering if this is about an outbuilding, or some kind of new-wave alternative living arrangement, so I'm still not sure!
wow ! ... not quite sure what to do with all that.
In the event of Texas Freeze #2 accompanied by a complete loss of power, the plan is to shut off the water before the main enters the house and drain the entire system to a newly installed bleeder spigot.
That being said, do I really need all of the valving that was described above ??
I have attached a pic of the original setup with new fittings, outdoor kitchen sink supply (red stop valve) and my pool filler supply (AS valve)... for the purpose of the forum pic I re-assembled the setup and I have it going into the wrong side of the AS valve.
My question was about the anti-siphon and its purpose in this configuration, I understand its purpose for a sprinkler system.
In the event of Texas Freeze #2 accompanied by a complete loss of power, the plan is to shut off the water before the main enters the house and drain the entire system to a newly installed bleeder spigot.
That being said, do I really need all of the valving that was described above ??
I have attached a pic of the original setup with new fittings, outdoor kitchen sink supply (red stop valve) and my pool filler supply (AS valve)... for the purpose of the forum pic I re-assembled the setup and I have it going into the wrong side of the AS valve.
My question was about the anti-siphon and its purpose in this configuration, I understand its purpose for a sprinkler system.
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Are you discussing a pipe that runs from yor main house to a kitchen outbuilding and to your swimming pool supply via an anti-siphon valve?
Most people here thought you were on about a garden tap.
Your picture above is cropped, so does not help much, sadly.
Most people here thought you were on about a garden tap.
Your picture above is cropped, so does not help much, sadly.
Problem is there will still be water in the pipe eg to the kitchen you would have to blow that out with a compressor to be totally water free
The above is what I can see.
I cannot advise on US legislation, however:
1. I can understand why you might require an anti-siphon valve to the swimming pool. Swimming pool water not drinkable and not wanting it possibly being sucked back into mains in event of a fault.
2. I can also understand why you would want to dedicate the siphon-proof section to the pool supply and not share this with the kitchen. In the event of a fault, you'd want to separate drinking water from non-drinking water else you could contaminate your own kitchen water supply.
3. I don't understand why you would need the water to the kitchen itself to be protected from backflow as the water to the kitchen logically will be drinking water and so would not contaminate the mains if the mains sucks the clean water out of your kitchen pipework. Unless the pipework is run outside, in which case there may be a rationale to protect the main house from water sat in outdoor pipework.
4. I would suggest that any water run in above-ground outdoor pipework and not very well insulated might not really be considered drinking water due to the risk of bacteria breeding in the pipework if the water were to stagnate and get warm in hot weather.
Shaun... I agree with the "blow out" as they do when winterizing sprinkler systems, which is why I bought a valve with a bleeder. In a perfect world, this valve would be below grade with a bleeder to drain the system to the OK. We don't winterize down here, I typically will be using my OK all winter. I am looking to protect the OK in the event of a hard freeze, which took its toll this year.
Ric... Thanks I completely understand the AS purpose in my setup, protection from the pool ! I just wanted to make sure I needed the AS before putting humpty back together. Its kinda hard to see but the T of the configuration I am holding goes up to the AS valve then on to the pool fill, that same T goes down the 90 to the new valve I am installing for the OK supply, bypassing the AS altogether.
if you can install the gate valve (red handle) between the bleeder and the tee, then install another gate valve (red handle) on one end of the tee and fee the kitchen / outdoor equipment from the other end of the tee
that will let you close off to the bleeder and use compressed air to blow out the rest then open the top valve so the bleeder can do its job
Shaun, in an effort to simplify, why can't I use the existing setup to "blow out" the OK line using compressed air into the valve's small bleeder hole (red handle)... with the valve closed the air should clear the down line system, right ?
The red handle valve is a stop waster valve, I also have a ball valve with a bleeder I can use, which might be a better choice.
I am attaching an un-cropped pic for more detail... there are two pvc pipes over lapping in the pic (lower) goes directly to the OK supply.
The red handle valve is a stop waster valve, I also have a ball valve with a bleeder I can use, which might be a better choice.
I am attaching an un-cropped pic for more detail... there are two pvc pipes over lapping in the pic (lower) goes directly to the OK supply.
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