How's best to fit them on plasterboard walls? No studs found. Underneath a window. Double panel. 1600 x 300
- Thread starter jaydebruyne
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- May 23, 2015
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B
Billy Bob Bob
cut the plasterboard out behind where the brackets are, so cut out 2 bits with a padsaw, say 250 long (300mm rad) by 100mm wide. now cut 2 bits of 18mm ply, 250mm long by 200mm wide. Slide the ply into the hole in the wall at an angle (be careful not to drop it inside the wall, you need to put a screw in the middle of the ply with the head sticking out to give yourself something to hold onto)
Now the ply is behind the wall, centre it up in the hole so it overlaps each side evenly 50mm then screw though the edges (25mm in) of the left and right side of the plasterboard and into the ply which will pinch it all together. Now replace the PB you cut out earlier and screw it into the ply.
- May 23, 2015
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[video=youtube;nNFv65-QTPI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNFv65-QTPI[/video]
above is the best way of doing it for slighty bigger rads IMO, saves cutting the wall out for studs, small rads I use the brolly type plasterboard fixings, or spring toggles (I prefer spring toggles for strength over the brolly ones.
It expands the anchor, you put the anchor in the wall and the tool basically pulls the screw head away from the wall which inturn opens the anchor up behind the wall like an umbrella
- May 23, 2015
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sorry jay linked the wrong vid
[video=youtube;7mpcer0QzW8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mpcer0QzW8[/video]
you load the fixing into the setting tool and it has a Rachel action on the trigger so it flares out the fitting by pulling the screw head if that makes sense. It's well handy for when your using them quite a bit, tightening with a drill/driver you can pull the fixing through the wall, you can't with the setting tool.
B
Billy Bob Bob
Wall will give out before the fixing ,look at the toolstation site,they use fischer fixings so best you can buy,should give kg ratings
- May 23, 2015
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So, there are various sizes.. I'm assuming its width x length???
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scr...d1930/Fischer+HM-S+Metal+Cavity+Fixing/p73656
Am I right in thinking the longer it is, the more load it can handle???
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scr...d1930/Fischer+HM-S+Metal+Cavity+Fixing/p73656
Am I right in thinking the longer it is, the more load it can handle???
- May 23, 2015
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For thicker plasterboard but go with the biggest dia you can have
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I like the wall fixing in the above links and find them strong enough for small to medium rads. I like that they stay in the wall if you remove the bolt.
But also consider these, expensive but very strong and will also stay in the plasterboard, -
https://www.edwardes.co.uk/en/categories/thorsman-platti-plugs
But also consider these, expensive but very strong and will also stay in the plasterboard, -
https://www.edwardes.co.uk/en/categories/thorsman-platti-plugs
They are rated to about 20kg per fixing on average.
I have used them for large rads and large wall mounted TV's.
Get a good branded setting tool as I originally used a cheap fleabay one that started to slip.
Note that the shaft part can be different lengths for plasterboard walls that are thicker, - like where they have a heavy coat of plaster on top.
Lidl do a kit of anchors that includes a very decent setting tool. The anchors in the kit are not great quality and like a lot of other makes they can break off at the final bit (washer) that shows on outside of wall
They are very much stronger than even the anchors that need the setting tool.
Worth having a few of them.
Great the way they are designed with a spring between the outer flange and the bar.
The bar part is fairly thick in middle and has a decent amount of threads there for the bolt to hold to
All rads I try to find timber to screw to, but decent anchors do well as a secondary fixing, or on a smallish rad a sole fixing.
I would never use a plasterboard fixing, no matter how good, to hold heavy vertical rads. Only way is heavy timber fitted behind plasterboard and strong coach screws
I would never use a plasterboard fixing, no matter how good, to hold heavy vertical rads. Only way is heavy timber fitted behind plasterboard and strong coach screws
Isn't this essentially weakening that section of plasterboard though, because you've cut a hole?
Anyone used these? Says it can carry 120kg on a single fixing
[DLMURL]http://www.wickes.co.uk/Grip-It-Type-16-2-Plasterboard-Fixing-5-0-x-30mm-Pack-8/p/121049?CAWELAID=120135120001179349&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=37524969172&CATCI=aud-142955627092😛la-84196326979&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping%20-%20Screws,%20Nails%20&%20Fixings&tmcampid=&tmad=c&tmplaceref=RVbZDCqI&utm_content=sRVbZDCqI%7Cpcid%7C102693176572%7Cpkw%7C%7Cpmt%7C%7C[/DLMURL]
[DLMURL]http://www.wickes.co.uk/Grip-It-Type-16-2-Plasterboard-Fixing-5-0-x-30mm-Pack-8/p/121049?CAWELAID=120135120001179349&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=37524969172&CATCI=aud-142955627092😛la-84196326979&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping%20-%20Screws,%20Nails%20&%20Fixings&tmcampid=&tmad=c&tmplaceref=RVbZDCqI&utm_content=sRVbZDCqI%7Cpcid%7C102693176572%7Cpkw%7C%7Cpmt%7C%7C[/DLMURL]
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- May 23, 2015
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I wouldn't say it weakens it once its all back together with the ply in, much stronger than any hollow wall anchor.
Think I'll do the ply thing then.. Certainly don't want them falling off the walls!!!
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Depending on how many holes are in the bracket you can still some more if you need to
Say one in the middle etc
T
tamz
If you are worried put a splash of no nails or whatever on the back of the bracket before you fix it back. Whoever takes it off in 10 or 20 years time will love you for it 😉
Cavity fixings (the ones set with a gun) or spring toggles will easily take the weight of most std rads on plasterboard as the brackets give a relatively large spread for cantilever loads.
Decorative rads and towel rails are different as the brackets are small and have very little cantilever resistance.
Shear loading (straight downwards) is pretty irrelevant. A nail knocked into plasterboard at a downward angle will easily support a 10kg shear load.
Don't worry about it.
Cavity fixings (the ones set with a gun) or spring toggles will easily take the weight of most std rads on plasterboard as the brackets give a relatively large spread for cantilever loads.
Decorative rads and towel rails are different as the brackets are small and have very little cantilever resistance.
Shear loading (straight downwards) is pretty irrelevant. A nail knocked into plasterboard at a downward angle will easily support a 10kg shear load.
Don't worry about it.
D
drip-dry
Ultimate handyman..now there is a good site...
However I find most plasterboard walls are on!y 41\2'' thick....so get ya self some six inch nails and often you can securs to a wardrobe or set of draws on the other side of the wall....be careful though ,,,,fixed a pair of rad brackets to our lasses knickers once..and no way wild they stay up.
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I've only had one pb wall and used a bit of ply the size of the boiler in between - but just thought I'd they're good enough for a 50 kilo rad...?
T
tamz
Not really suitable for boilers but i've seen it done.
As a last resort insert a couple of pieces of wood in through the flue hole and fix it in place from the front with a couple of screws then attach the bracket to those. Much bigger load spread.
D
drip-dry
Mounted on ply ..what happened to not fixing to flamable material..or was you sleeping during that part of ya gas safe refresher..good to see gas in safe hands
- May 23, 2015
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D
drip-dry
Some manufacturers instructions over rule this but were in the general regs has this changed...think you should recheck toooooo...
- May 23, 2015
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Which manufactures do then ideal, vaillant, Worcester, Viessmann, atag all accept new rules
D
drip-dry
Look
Didn't quite work like that...we have general regs that manufactures with there own products can over rule and set their own prescience ...all you have to do is tell me were in the standard regs that it says you can now fit a boiler to a flammable surface...simples...
Didn't quite work like that...we have general regs that manufactures with there own products can over rule and set their own prescience ...all you have to do is tell me were in the standard regs that it says you can now fit a boiler to a flammable surface...simples...
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Because you don't know only type c flues (balanced) in igm require fire proof walls due to hot flues, but as your not gas qualified and think you know more go ahead name one condensing boiler that requires it
But you don't need to know any of this as you won't be installing
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Depends on the manufacturer, most can be fittted on combustable surfaces now.
J
JCSPLUMBING
That's what I do. A sliver of gripfill on the back of the brackets as well as hollow wall anchors
Ive never used no setting tool with these...just tighten them up undo the screw and fix whatever your fixing ...done thousands never had a problem yet.
I find that a bit slow if using a hand screwdriver tbh. But if you do just hand screw them tight, one tip I found is put a dot of oil below the head of the bolt, because there is massive friction between the head and rad bracket (or whatever) while the bolt is pulling the toggle legs tight.
The setting tool is just one squeeze and it's done and without risk of spinning the toggle in wall.
If you were doing it as a job allday maybe but in a house your never gonna use many just the odd studded wall ...I see it as just another weapon to have to lug around meself.
T
tamz
If you dont have a setting tool you should tighten the bolt through a bracket or something you can hold. If you don't you run a chance of the fixing spinning in the wall (then you will be searching the van for a spring toggle).
Unifix used to give you a key in the box for holding them if doing by hand.
25 turns of the screwdriver or 5 pumps of a yankee. I counted it enough times when i was a boy.
Unifix used to give you a key in the box for holding them if doing by hand.
25 turns of the screwdriver or 5 pumps of a yankee. I counted it enough times when i was a boy.
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