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If you are worried put a splash of no nails or whatever on the back of the bracket before you fix it back. Whoever takes it off in 10 or 20 years time will love you for it 😉

Cavity fixings (the ones set with a gun) or spring toggles will easily take the weight of most std rads on plasterboard as the brackets give a relatively large spread for cantilever loads.
Decorative rads and towel rails are different as the brackets are small and have very little cantilever resistance.
Shear loading (straight downwards) is pretty irrelevant. A nail knocked into plasterboard at a downward angle will easily support a 10kg shear load.
Don't worry about it.
 
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sorry jay linked the wrong vid

[video=youtube;7mpcer0QzW8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mpcer0QzW8[/video]

Ultimate handyman..now there is a good site...

However I find most plasterboard walls are on!y 41\2'' thick....so get ya self some six inch nails and often you can securs to a wardrobe or set of draws on the other side of the wall....be careful though ,,,,fixed a pair of rad brackets to our lasses knickers once..and no way wild they stay up.
 
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So these hollow wall anchors, anyone used them for boilers on plasterboard walls?

Not really suitable for boilers but i've seen it done.
As a last resort insert a couple of pieces of wood in through the flue hole and fix it in place from the front with a couple of screws then attach the bracket to those. Much bigger load spread.
 
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Turned out that hollow wall was a solid wall with half inch of plaster on it - sounded hollow to me! Lol both rads (1800-600 & 1600-600) fitted and well.. Cheers guys
 
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I've only had one pb wall and used a bit of ply the size of the boiler in between - but just thought I'd they're good enough for a 50 kilo rad...?

Mounted on ply ..what happened to not fixing to flamable material..or was you sleeping during that part of ya gas safe refresher..good to see gas in safe hands
 
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Which manufactures do then ideal, vaillant, Worcester, Viessmann, atag all accept new rules

Didn't quite work like that...we have general regs that manufactures with there own products can over rule and set their own prescience ...all you have to do is tell me were in the standard regs that it says you can now fit a boiler to a flammable surface...simples...
 
Look

Didn't quite work like that...we have general regs that manufactures with there own products can over rule and set their own prescience ...all you have to do is tell me were in the standard regs that it says you can now fit a boiler to a flammable surface...simples...

Because you don't know only type c flues (balanced) in igm require fire proof walls due to hot flues, but as your not gas qualified and think you know more go ahead name one condensing boiler that requires it

But you don't need to know any of this as you won't be installing
 
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Mounted on ply ..what happened to not fixing to flamable material..or was you sleeping during that part of ya gas safe refresher..good to see gas in safe hands

Depends on the manufacturer, most can be fittted on combustable surfaces now.
 
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That's what I do. A sliver of gripfill on the back of the brackets as well as hollow wall anchors
 
Ive never used no setting tool with these...just tighten them up undo the screw and fix whatever your fixing ...done thousands never had a problem yet.

I find that a bit slow if using a hand screwdriver tbh. But if you do just hand screw them tight, one tip I found is put a dot of oil below the head of the bolt, because there is massive friction between the head and rad bracket (or whatever) while the bolt is pulling the toggle legs tight.
The setting tool is just one squeeze and it's done and without risk of spinning the toggle in wall.
 
I find that a bit slow if using a hand screwdriver tbh. But if you do just hand screw them tight, one tip I found is put a dot of oil below the head of the bolt, because there is massive friction between the head and rad bracket (or whatever) while the bolt is pulling the toggle legs tight.
The setting tool is just one squeeze and it's done and without risk of spinning the toggle in wall.

If you were doing it as a job allday maybe but in a house your never gonna use many just the odd studded wall ...I see it as just another weapon to have to lug around meself.
 
If you dont have a setting tool you should tighten the bolt through a bracket or something you can hold. If you don't you run a chance of the fixing spinning in the wall (then you will be searching the van for a spring toggle).
Unifix used to give you a key in the box for holding them if doing by hand.

I find that a bit slow if using a hand screwdriver tbh.

25 turns of the screwdriver or 5 pumps of a yankee. I counted it enough times when i was a boy.
 
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