Oil also contains more sulphur than gas which used to have little or none, may have changed now, also I think the minimum flow temperature selectable on grant condensing boilers is either 60 or 65c, gas boilers go as low as 35C??.
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Of limited use in an older property with radiators as we know. Need rhe higher temps unlike modern houses with UFH etc.Oil also contains more sulphur than gas which used to have little or none, may have changed now, also I think the minimum flow temperature selectable on grant condensing boilers is either 60 or 65c, gas boilers go as low as 35C??.
Condensing is paramount to maximising efficiency. All oil boilers on the market today are condensing but for most oil boilers the similarities to their gas cousins stops there. The dew point for kerosene flue gases is a lot lower than mains gas. At ~ 47°c return temperature condensing will start but you are then relying on the secondary heat exchanger efficiency to make sure the water then returning to and through the primary heat exchanger is above dew point else you will get back end rot. There is ways to prevent this but it’s added parts, added cost and a bit of maths to make sure everything runs properly.
Gas boilers have higher dew point temperature but more importantly have the heat exchanger constructed of materials able to withstand lower water temperatures and not rot. The lower the return temperature can be the greater the level of condensing and therefore efficiency. Also gas modulating boilers are even more efficient at part load, whereas with oil you have to meet certain criteria on most boilers.
I know I’ve banged on about it a lot and I do apologise but the Sapphire boiler is an absolutely huge advancement in the oil world. Fully modulating, so can closely match the ever changing load with minimal cycling, excess fuel consumption and burner wear and tear.
For maximum efficiency you want good modulation and low flow temperatures. If a fixed rate burner like most oil burners I would consider a different system design approach to the common S and Y plans.
Both nice fires. How old is your property? Looks like could be several hundred ?
Yes the wood Fire is nice to look at also! How do you find the ASHP? I havent heard much good about them here mainly due to very high electricity bills in the dead of winter. (In new houses too) Did you see the recent Skill Builer you tube video on ASHPs?I’d love a wood fire in my living room. The problem is due to my disability I live in a ground floor council flat. I would need permission for a wood fire from them and the external flue would look ugly even if they did agree, which is highly unlikely seeing as I have an ASHP 😂. Electric fire would fo but at the price per KWH of electric I’d rather put more clothes on.
First off if the Skill Builder video series is who I think it is then do not pay attention to them. Heat Geek have a lot of videos on their website etc that are far more realistic.
My heat pump works don’t get me wrong but my electricity bill in the winter months is astronomical. It’s worth noting my installation was not done by me and to be honest not the best job but it does work. Unfortunately though because of the electricity it uses I would of preferred a mains gas boiler but that isn’t into my block of flats.
I’m 36 and have had chronic rheumatoid arthritis since birth. I’m now at the point where I walk with a walking stick and can’t imagine a wheelchair is too far away. I need warmth in my home and if I didn’t get my warm home discount this winter I would of froze to death.
Heat pumps do work but the system need careful design.
I had a smart meter installed a month ago and I’m under the impression I’m not entitled to any off peak special tariffs.
I had a play with my smart meter hub after writing my last comment. At the time my tv, fridge freezer and living room light were pulling 283 watts of power per second. I turned my room stat up to 23°c to bring on the heat pump. After the minute it takes to bring on the heat pump I checked the power my house was pulling. It had gone from 283 watts to 1.64 kw per second. I’m not sure of the COP of my unit at this outside temperature of 7°c in Taunton. Let’s say it’s 2.1. The unit was pulling an additional ~ 1.3 kw, therefore it would produce roughly 2.6 kw to every 1.3 of electricity drawn. It’s still free energy but that COP reduces as the outside temperature decreases.
These options I’ve found on the smart meter hub will allow me to run some tests in the near future.
Haven't had time to tinker much with my heating system since. Just been running it as normal. Racked up 60 hours boiler thermostat call time on the BEM and it's showing an overall saving of 17.5%.
View attachment 73715
This is the average saving it does better on the upstairs than downstairs zone. Perhaps because running the upstairs the boiler is definitely oversized whereas it's just about right on the ground floor.
Still interested to carry out balancing when I get time. And to see if this new condensing boiler with BEM will get me through spring on 900L which would more than halve my regular winters oil bill!
Worth a read.Condensing is paramount to maximising efficiency. All oil boilers on the market today are condensing but for most oil boilers the similarities to their gas cousins stops there. The dew point for kerosene flue gases is a lot lower than mains gas. At ~ 47°c return temperature condensing will start but you are then relying on the secondary heat exchanger efficiency to make sure the water then returning to and through the primary heat exchanger is above dew point else you will get back end rot. There is ways to prevent this but it’s added parts, added cost and a bit of maths to make sure everything runs properly.
Gas boilers have higher dew point temperature but more importantly have the heat exchanger constructed of materials able to withstand lower water temperatures and not rot. The lower the return temperature can be the greater the level of condensing and therefore efficiency. Also gas modulating boilers are even more efficient at part load, whereas with oil you have to meet certain criteria on most boilers.
I know I’ve banged on about it a lot and I do apologise but the Sapphire boiler is an absolutely huge advancement in the oil world. Fully modulating, so can closely match the ever changing load with minimal cycling, excess fuel consumption and burner wear and tear.
For maximum efficiency you want good modulation and low flow temperatures. If a fixed rate burner like most oil burners I would consider a different system design approach to the common S and Y plans.
No I don’t have LED lighting in my flat. Should definitely make the transition.
So avoid white LED’s?I ended up going with warm white LED lights throughout the interior of my house. There are multiple studies out there indicating white LEDs may be detrimental to your health
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Light Pollution - Human Health Impacts from LEDs
Light Pollution - Human Health Impacts from LEDs - Designing Buildings - Share your construction industry knowledge. A groundbreaking report released by the American Medical Association (AMA) Council on Science and Public Health affirms known and suspected impacts to human health and the...www.designingbuildings.co.uk
In any case I also simply prefer warm lights anyway so it was an easy decision. And LEDs give out alot more light typically.
Several of us on this forum have done the Hest Geek course 😉. A subject discussed on their website quite a lot.Worth a read.
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Boiler Modulation: What is Boiler Modulation & Boiler Cycling
Discover the benefits of boiler modulation! Learn how boiler modulation optimises energy usage, increases efficiency, and reduces operating costs.www.heatgeek.com
This trend (from the above) doesn't make a lot of sense though as it doesn't give the total cycle time(s)
View attachment 74117
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