Red and brown plugs ..radiator fixing

[Ben-gee]

I'm not surprised at his test results as he drilled an 8mm hole for the brown plug, which surely should have been 7mm?
Same as Best, i drill deeper and 'push' the plug in deep by hammering screw into it, then tighten with driver. It never fails.

What was that crashing noise.......

 

[ShaunCorbs]

5.5mm for red
7mm for brown

8-10s for reds unless hard brick (more likely to snap / crack the brick with a 10 screw)
10-12 for brown

around an inch setting depth for the plug

 

[quality]

5.5mm for red
7mm for brown

8-10s for reds unless hard brick (more likely to snap / crack the brick with a 10 screw)
10-12 for brown

around an inch setting depth for the plug

Snapped a the odd screw but never cracked a brick

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Snapped a the odd screw but never cracked a brick

There's some Burnt hard engineering brick that don't like to be core drilled them ones snap with a 10

 

[gmartine]

...or when Best is using a 3" screw with 200Nm impact driver to fix a pipe clip. 🙂

 

[howy1]

I started in the trade many moons ago and all we used were rawlplugs they never let you down , one thing I do find awkward sometimes is type of screw as in the good ole days they were all tapered ie black Japaned or slotted now all seem parrellel .

 

[AWheating]

normally use a brown plug with a 2.5 x 12 screw. stainless if in a bathroom.

on a dabbed wall id use a 4 x 12 or longer.

i use those brown plugs that come in a brown box in 100 x singles.

https://cpc.farnell.com/productimages/standard/en_GB/FN03358-40.jpg

 

[HoodedClaw]

I have a lot of wattle and dub around here - and they always want 3 or 4 column rads there too. I've had to cut the wall away once to osb behind it so I've tried a lot of fittings on the others. Had one come away, and luckily only an inch. Spring toggles have worked well so far but I'm keen to try the new blade fixings.

 

[Frank Nicklin]

Best plugs are Fischer’s in my opinion

Yes they are great. Used them on Hollow and Solid walls.
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These a fantastic for heavy items such as Vanity units, TV wall brackets, kitchen units etc. They are called Rigifix. Drill the hole, tap in the plug, use a hex wrench to screw in the main tapped screw then fix your item to the wall using the small dome hex screw. Very very strong.
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These a fantastic for heavy items such as Vanity units, TV wall brackets, kitchen units etc. They are called Rigifix. Drill the hole, tap in the plug, use a hex wrench to screw in the main tapped screw then fix your item to the wall using the small dome hex screw. Very very strong.
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Not a fan of these merged posts. What if I want to keep the discussion separate.

 

[BobThomas]

I pre-emptively got a cartridge of rawlplug styrene free wall anchor, before moving a radiator recently. The walIs... stone with rubble in-fill and an inch or so of lime plaster and render.
Several failed holes later, I used the epoxy anchor. Worked really well, but could’ve done with some compatible fixings other a than a bit of stud and nuts that I had to hand. Unsure what would’ve worked and still be de-mountable otherwise. The stuff I bought was the cheapest I could find at about a fiver a pop, I don’t think it keeps too well so it’s a bit of a one shot deal.
With plugs generally, I’ve found going 1/2 mm less for the recommended masonry bit, then using a ‘toffee’ (that’s anything other than a lump hammer) hammer to tap the plug into the wall well below the skim to the point where you need to unscrew the screw. Doesn’t work so well with engineering bricks though, end up shearing your screws, use the right bit same goes in limestone.

 

[Olegas]

Always plug for Fischer 👌