Wilo Pump Capacitor Replacement

[Marko!]

Hi All, new member here.
I have a Wilo Gold RS50 pump fitted to a solar thermal system. I suspect the capacitor is faulty and wish to replace it. However, I cannot see the method to disconnect one of the capacitor leads (sited between the L & N connections). It is very tight and I don't want to damage the connection such that I cannot install the new one.
The other capacitor lead is held in with a clip and is easy to remove.
Any advice appreciated.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Prob soldered to a board

 

[townfanjon]

Assuming you can get it out , can you buy one ?

 

[Welder]

Caps are easy come by Town. So long as the same capacitance (Farads) and type is chosen it'll work.

 

[townfanjon]

Caps are easy come by Town. So long as the same capacitance (Farads) and type is chosen it'll work.

Heres me thinking Wilo would want to sell you another pump lol

 

[Welder]

Heres me thinking Wilo would want to sell you another pump lol

And ere's me not wanting to spend any brass ... 🙄

 

[Marko!]

Cheers guys. I can't think why they would solder one side in but not the other?? It looks just like it's pushed in but I don't want to yank on it too hard and potentially damage the connection. Unfortunately the orientation of the pump makes it difficult to access too. I would swap the pump but the main complication is that the system is pressurised and full of glycol. I was hoping a new capacitor would be an easy/cheap fix...

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Any chance of a pic of the connector ?

 

[townfanjon]

Cheers guys. I can't think why they would solder one side in but not the other?? It looks just like it's pushed in but I don't want to yank on it too hard and potentially damage the connection. Unfortunately the orientation of the pump makes it difficult to access too. I would swap the pump but the main complication is that the system is pressurised and full of glycol. I was hoping a new capacitor would be an easy/cheap fix...

Because they may prefer to sell you the full pump , maybe .

 

[Marko!]

Any chance of a pic of the connector ?

I will try but it's difficult to get the phone behind the pump. You can't really see anything much - just the wire disappearing into a hole...

 

[Marko!]

Came out better than I thought!

 

[ShaunCorbs]

TBH cut and strip the wires back and chock block them

 

[Welder]

TBH cut and strip the wires back and chock block them

No. Sorry Shaun. Use Wago blocks as both safer & reusable as cannot be overtightened.

 

[Marko!]

No. Sorry Shaun. Use Wago blocks as both safer & reusable as cannot be overtightened.

I did wonder about that. I reckon there is just about enough room.

 

[Welder]

You can buy smaller caps of same rating, they just cost £1 more 😉

 

[ShaunCorbs]

No. Sorry Shaun. Use Wago blocks as both safer & reusable as cannot be overtightened.

Too big by the looks of the space love wagos but size looks an issue

 

[Welder]

Too big by the looks of the space love wagos but size looks an issue

Thats why i suggest a smaller version of cap 😉

 

[townfanjon]

Wago’s are great on with a single conductor , but not so good on multi-strand .

 

[Marko!]

Thats why i suggest a smaller version of cap 😉

I would only need to use one connector as the other lead is removable. Therefore there may be enough room especially if I can get a smaller cap. I will post another photo once I have finished. Cheers guys.

 

[Welder]

Wago’s are great on with a single conductor , but not so good on multi-strand .

Use the lever versions or put a crimp on it 😵 Where there's a will...

 

[Marko!]

Wago’s are great on with a single conductor , but not so good on multi-strand .

Cheers for tip. The cap has a single strand conductor.

 

[OffshoreGas]

Be careful swapping capacitors fitted to motors because they need to be rated to both the correct capacitance and voltage for the application. You may find the back EMF effect of the motor may lead to stray voltages significantly higher than the 240v input.

On another tack, I don’t think I’d replace a anything electrical with a non OEM part. If the pump later catches fire etc (unlikely I know) you’re leaving yourself wide open liability wise. A judge would have you’re pants down.

 

[OffshoreGas]

I’m new to gas safe but I assume you can’t just fit any old gas valve in a boiler say without invalidating the appliances certification/indemnity. This would be the same to me.

 

[Welder]

Be careful swapping capacitors fitted to motors because they need to be rated to both the correct capacitance and voltage for the application. You may find the back EMF effect of the motor may lead to stray voltages significantly higher than the 240v input.

On another tack, I don’t think I’d replace a anything electrical with a non OEM part. If the pump later catches fire etc (unlikely I know) you’re leaving yourself wide open liability wise. A judge would have you’re pants down.

OSG that's what I said! Match or exceed the existing spec. So long as you have the same or better then no one can come back at you.

 

[OffshoreGas]

In my world it would have to be like for like, part number for part number. May be different for you guys.

I’m not sure I’d expose myself to the extra risk. It’s not going to be much cheaper by the time you’ve got the right cap and gone back.

Chances are if the caps had it a bearing or seal won’t be far behind. You’ve then got a naffed off customer badmouthing you to all and sundry.

 

[Marko!]

In my world it would have to be like for like, part number for part number. May be different for you guys.

I’m not sure I’d expose myself to the extra risk. It’s not going to be much cheaper by the time you’ve got the right cap and gone back.

Chances are if the caps had it a bearing or seal won’t be far behind. You’ve then got a naffed off customer badmouthing you to all and sundry.

I have got the precise spec for the capacitor. I would never fit anything other than the same spec as original. I am also the ‘customer ‘ myself so even more reason to want it done correctly! Cheers.

 

[OffshoreGas]

Ah, crack on then and just make sure to deny all knowledge. 🙂

 

[Best]

I just coincidentally pulled a few old pumps apart and removed the capacitors.
Some of them are the Wilo as above

 

[Marko!]

I just coincidentally pulled a few old pumps apart and removed the capacitors.
Some of them are the Wilo as above

Wow, that’s a coincidence and a half! How was the connection made?

 

[Best]

Wow, that’s a coincidence and a half! How was the connection made?

This is going to sound strange, but I am not sure. I was stripping the outer electrics and plastic parts of the various motors. Capacitors are off but I do remember cutting some of the cables.
Think some are soldered into a board.
Will take a look now.

 

[Marko!]

This is going to sound strange, but I am not sure. I was stripping the outer electrics and plastic parts of the various motors. Capacitors are off but I do remember cutting some of the cables.
Think some are soldered into a board.
Will take a look now.

Cheers

 

[Best]

Cheers

I have some of the black capacitors from old Wilos.
Looks like I snipped the ends of the wires. Think they were soldered into a board

 

[Marko!]

I have some of the black capacitors from old Wilos.
Looks like I snipped the ends of the wires. Think they were soldered into a board

I think that is most likely as I can't see a way to disconnect it. I would have liked to test the old one first but didn't want to take it off without having a replacement. I've ordered a new one now, so should be able to swap it soon. I'll post the outcome afterwards. Cheers