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Wintersun

Hi all,

my 1st post here! I have searched all over the net and can't really find an answer to my quest!

I have a Potterton Netaheat Profile 40e boiler, controlled by a Potterton Ep2001 timer.

I currently do not have a room thermostat in my house. But would like one fitted to my living room.

I have seen youtube video showing how to wire up a wireless thermostat to "a" boiler. Im pretty good with electrics so im sure I can install one, but.....

The problem Im having is, can a room thermostat be fitted to my Potterton netaheat profile 40e? or EP2001 timer controls?

I basically need to know where the wires go!

Also if I have a thermostat fitted, what do I do with the original timer controls? Keep them in place and have them set to constant and let the thermostat control it?

I have a fully pumped heating system. So I believe that would be diagram H on page 3 of the manual?

My timer control diagram
[DLMURL]http://www.gtts.co.uk/EP2001/PottertonEP2001InstallerGuide.pdf[/DLMURL]

My Wireless receiver diagram
http://www.free-instruction-manuals.com/pdf/p4766387.pdf

What wires from the wireless receiver would I tap into on the timer or the boiler?

My timer panel opened. (reads A B C D L N 1 2 3 4 5)
photo.jpg

My wireless thermostat receiver opened.
photo2.jpg

Thanks

Matt
 
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Hi Wintersun,

The work you are wanting to do is controlled work under Part P of the building regulations so you would be much cheaper getting an electrician in (who is registered with a competent person scheme such as NICEIC) to do it for you than paying the local building inspector to come out and give you the certificate you will need when you sell your house.

Not notifying building control on this work is illegal (either through a competent person scheme or by notifying them yourself prior to doing the work) so don't take the chance, they will catch up with you when you sell your home.
 
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Well blow me!!! I'm carrying out illegal work 🙂 I thought Part P was for upto the fuse spur? So are you saying crOft that if i change a room stat or wire in a room stat, something I've done for 30yrs, I'm carrying this work out illegaly? Honestly that's the first I've heard!!
 
wintersun ... bye the way, it'd not cost you much to get a GSR guy, NOT PART P, like myself to sort it for you no bother 🙂

Is the white wire into '4' on the programmer back plate from the diverter valve actuator?
 
cheers for the replys guys 🙂

I could get an electrician in to do the work, but why would they sell these items in diy stores if you then need to call a specialist in to do it for you?

Someone must know which 3 wires I need to connect to the stat receiver from the timer control panel?
 
Live, Neutral and switched live are the 3 wires wintersun ... if you're using 3 wires though you'll need a link in the sender 🙂 Reason I asked about the white wire is that it's important to know its destination also 🙂
 
Hi diamondgas,

the white wire in 4 is indeed to the actuator valve.

Which wire goes from the timer panel (A B C D L N 1 2 3 4 5) onto L, N , L1, LX, L2 on the wireless sender? What link will I need on the sender?

thanks

photo3.jpg
 
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Okay seeing as it's Christmas and you'll probably find out somewhere down the line 🙂

L - L
N - N
L1 - C
remove white from 4 and put in in C

Link L to LX in the sender 🙂

Now it doesn't matter if you have your programmer on or off for central heating. The heating demand has been bi-passed to the extremly crappy RF stat you've bought :rofl:
 
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Thanks! :hurray: Whats wrong with my RF stat??? 😛rrr:
 
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So if I set my CH timer to off and turn the Stat up to above the room temp, the boiler will click in and fire up?

I can still use the timer controls to control my HW as before?

What RF Stat would you recommend? nothing too expensive, but one thats good and does the job I want it to do.
 
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Thank! :hurray: Whats wrong with my RF stat??? 😛rrr:

Changed a good few in my time coz they just stop working after a year or two!!! They may have ironed out the glitch by now, I know they've had at least 2 versions so far, but I stay clear of siemens RF coz of past experience 🙂
 
So if I set my CH timer to off and turn the Stat up to above the room temp, the boiler will click in and fire up?

I can still use the timer controls to control my HW as before?

Now it gets complicated Wintersun! You'll always get hot water BUT it depends on how the rest of the system is wired as to whether you can have heating indipendantly if the programmer is "off" on hot water!
 
Well I might just take that one back then and change it for a better one. Any recommendations?
 
Now it gets complicated Wintersun! You'll always get hot water BUT it depends on how the rest of the system is wired as to whether you can have heating indipendantly if the programmer is "off" on hot water!

I've only been in this house a year and as far as I can work out, the CH and HW can be run separately on the potterton EP2001 timer thats currently wired up to my system. My HW is mostly off all day apart from 2 hours in the morning. But the CH works fine with the HW off on the timer.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well blow me!!! I'm carrying out illegal work 🙂 I thought Part P was for upto the fuse spur? So are you saying crOft that if i change a room stat or wire in a room stat, something I've done for 30yrs, I'm carrying this work out illegaly? Honestly that's the first I've heard!!
I was questioned by building control over a similar issue (jobs worth)
Anyways part p is required for the provision of a new circuit not simply changing similar for similar .
The bloke was red in the face when I proved my credentials as a fully approved registered contractor and not just part p
 
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I've only been in this house a year and as far as I can work out, the CH and HW can be run separately on the potterton EP2001 timer thats currently wired up to my system. My HW is mostly off all day apart from 2 hours in the morning. But the CH works fine with the HW off on the timer.

That sounds good for go Wintersun IMO🙂
 
I was questioned by building control over a similar issue (jobs worth)
Anyways part p is required for the provision of a new circuit not simply changing similar for similar .
The bloke was red in the face when I proved my credentials as a fully approved registered contractor and not just part p

I'd imagine it's nothing discimilar to GSR .. Prove compitence and you're okay? End of the day if your being questioned by the powers that be then you've probably dropped a bollock anyway 🙂
 
Great, so that means I can still control my HW by timer as per before and switch my CH off via the timer and just use the room stat?

Is the Honeywell DT92E wireless a good one?
 

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