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AllyBongo

Plumbers Arms member
Plumber
Gas Engineer
Dec 9, 2010
499
45
28
Scotland
Member Type
Heating Engineer (Has GSR)
Problem with this one is when a demand is on, the boiler was firing up for a short time then cutting out and the red light was flashing 4 times per sec. Checked both sensor, and they read within the range stated in MI's. MI's say next to check the resistance across the fan black and white leads, I tested across the fan terminals. MI's say it should be 75ohms to175ohms. I only got 64ohms. Going by MI's it says replace the fan. The fan seems to be running ok tho and the APS is made and ignition starts. APS works ok, although it takes a few seconds for the switch to close after it has been on. The boiler locks out with the cover on and off. When I left tonight it had ran for about 20 mins without lockout, so they're going to phone if it happens again. Would the fan reading low ohms be the problem?? Anything I haven't checked.

Cheers for any help guys, got a little experience in break downs but still learning
 
Fan isn't spinning. So that is a valid point. But this fan is either in or off

So need to be checking why it either isn't comin on or if the aps is affecting the startup of the fan

I haven't got the process diagram of the programming so can't say

Will need to check both. But first eliminate the op's suspitions. So as they can learn. Then build on that to fix the boiler if it isn't the aps
 
Fan is coming on and APS is made, APS is a two wire switch not three. Switch seems to take a few seconds to shut off
 
The Fans can be temperamental on Worcesters. It may be kicking in at low speed but not hitting high so going to lock out.
Sometimes there is no clear 100% indication what may be the exact cause of fault so you have a bit of trial and error. The fault flow fault flow diagrams for these get to a stage where it says replace the fan and if that does not fix problem replace board. Sometimes you have to take an educated guess.
You have checked the usual suspects, sensors and APS. You do not appear to get the MI's spec for readings on the windings so I would be inclined to look at fan.
 
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APS's always take a second or 2 after the fan slows down to click out. Not very familiar with these boilers if I am honest, so I can't really comment much further. I assume them fan on these is AC constant speed, rather than DC variable?
 
Thanks for the replies, I'll speak to the customer to see if problem is back. Will prob look at replacing the fan, as MI's say.
I'll let you's know the outcome
 
Problem with this one is when a demand is on, the boiler was firing up for a short time then cutting out and the red light was flashing 4 times per sec. Checked both sensor, and they read within the range stated in MI's. MI's say next to check the resistance across the fan black and white leads, I tested across the fan terminals. MI's say it should be 75ohms to175ohms. I only got 64ohms. Going by MI's it says replace the fan. The fan seems to be running ok tho and the APS is made and ignition starts. APS works ok, although it takes a few seconds for the switch to close after it has been on. The boiler locks out with the cover on and off. When I left tonight it had ran for about 20 mins without lockout, so they're going to phone if it happens again. Would the fan reading low ohms be the problem?? Anything I haven't checked.

Cheers for any help guys, got a little experience in break downs but still learning

4 times per second 2 options:

[TD="width: 344"][/TD]
[TD="width: 350"]CH or DHW Sensor fault or out of position.[/TD]
[TD="width: 167"]E[/TD]

[TD="width: 350"]Air pressure switch fault or condense in tubes.[/TD]

[TD="width: 350"]Fan fail or stiff.[/TD]

[TD="width: 350"]Blocked flue.[/TD]

[TD="width: 350"]Faulty harness.[/TD]

[TD="width: 350"]Board fault.[/TD]

[TD="width: 344"]Flash 4 times per second[/TD]
[TD="width: 350"]Gas Valve mode switch on min or max.[/TD]
[TD="width: 167"]F[/TD]

[TD="width: 344"][/TD]
 
To save starting a new thread, I'm having this problem on a tenant's boiler. I put it down to replace the PCB, which was done by someone else. Been back today and the fault is apparent again. It's flashing 4 times per second, sometimes fires and works fine, sometimes goes to lock out after about 30 seconds of the fan and pump running. Sometimes does it after the heating or dhw has been running a while. Sometimes it goes to fire then locks out as it's sparking.

I've spoken to Worcester who suggest the new board is faulty, I've spoken to my technical supervisor who suggests the same. But I'm not so sure. I've had a faulty new board on a Glow Worm before, but I rarely find a Worcester with a board fault and I doubt the new board will also be faulty. I tested the DHW thermistor and that was reading ok, linked out the low water pressure switch, which had continuity through it anyway, as did the overheat stat. Continuity through the APS when the fan runs.

The only thing I can think is that the harness is broken somewhere, causing it to lock out.

Anyone else got any ideas?
 
it seems my last post has been corrupted, I'll check my laptop out Arran and see what it says
 
With the one I had problems with it was the APS. Worked sometimes then just stopped, if it fires when you take the cover off it will be APS. Also listen for the switch clicking before it locks out
 
I was thinking that, but every time I checked it, there was continuity through the APS. The fault finding basically says it's the pcb, aps, sensors, everything almost! Helpful! Not!
 
I thought the APS was ok to but you cant really test it properly cause it only failed with the case on! Had the same prob the other week with a Vokera compact, when i took out the APS there was a seal on it that had dried and peeled off which was causing the fault, again this one only failed with the cover on
 
I don't really know what to think tbh. The APS looks quite new and the fault happens with the case on or off. Every time I check it it's working, so I removed it from my fault diagnosis.
 
These boilers suffer from the aps melting where the tubes attach to it. Make sure you take it fully of and check the state of the connections to the sensing tubes, i've had them melted and the aps dropping off.

Just a thought
 

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