Help! Speedfit Pipe and compression fittings, loft tank

[andrew1]

Hi all, im wanting to no weather i have done the correct thing, i have just installed a pumped electric shower and 25 gallon cold water tank to solve the problems i have with low water pressure and not being allways able to run a standard electric shower.
To allow my tank to fill as quick as poss i installed a 3/4 flote valve to the tank, i have use the tank support but when the flote valve moves up and down to fill the is some movement in the side of the tank, so i was a little worried about useing copper to supply the flote valve as i didnt think that there would be enough movement in the pipe and could poss end up with leeks! so! i feed the flote valve in speedfit pipe to allow for the movement, my question is have a done the correct thing ? i have also used two compression elbows in the run of speed fit pipe and a full bore isolating valve with the correct pipe inserts, i have read some posts on hear about speedfit blowing out of compression joints! its been installed for a week now and have had no problems as yet but im worried about winter, i have laged all the pipes but im now concerned if this will be enough or should i change it to copper ? any advice would be very much appreciated. Cheers

 

[mcniven]

My god...




:-(

 

[mcniven]

You should have NO movement in that tank!

 

[mcniven]

".......

 

[andrew1]

it does! moves with the weight of the ballvalve! its only a little movement but was worried it may cause leeks if i used copper

 

[mountainman]

You should have NO movement in that tank!

For sure he speaks the truth.

Turn it off, drain it and get someone in to do it properly.

 

[andrew1]

ay! i have no geren stuff growing in my loft 🙂

 

[mcniven]

Is the surface level?

 

[andrew1]

yerr spot on level! tank from screwfix sat on 6x2 joists 25mm ply on the top tank on top of that, lavel as water lol

 

[AWheating]

what moves the side of the tank? or the tank and stand? if its the side of the tank where the float valve is fitted did you fit a metal support plate against the side of the tank?

 

[andrew1]

its the side of the tank, it came with a support and that is fitted! it seems to be the weight of the 3/4 flote valve

 

[AWheating]

change it for a 1/2 one if you are worried and see if it helps, if it was piped in copper with the copper clipped it would help.

 

[andrew1]

emmm i used the 3/4 so the tank would fill quicker than normal but now you have mentioned copper and cliping it! of course! sometimes you get so raped up in what you are doing you dont see the obvious!! will do that, copper and clip it as it can easyly be done like that,

Cheers for that

 

[Howsie]

I'm laughing my **** off at that speeling mistake!

 

[andrew1]

ohh dear! missed the w and a p lol

 

[mountainman]

Bloody predictive text!

 

[mcniven]

Your pump in the shower Probibly won't pump faster than what a 15mm float valve could provide anyway

 

[andrew1]

wish i could blame it on predictive text! lol

 

[andrew1]

mcnivens, Your correct! but at times my water pressure can be so low, thats why i used the bigger valve to gain a bigger opening to allow it to fill as quick as poss in time of low pressure

 

[mcniven]

But if your water pressure at times became low then hoe would having a 3/4 valve in rather than 1/2 make a diff?

 

[lambchop]

You will have to be more subtle if you want to really wind the lads up.... nice try though

 

[mountainman]

But if your water pressure at times became low then hoe would having a 3/4 valve in rather than 1/2 make a diff?

Cos a larger opening in the valve will allow more water through than a smaller opening at the same pressure.

I have often solved the same problem in Fortic tanks by fitting a low pressure seating into a half inch ball valve.

 

[Guest123]

You need to tee off at the ball valve and continue with a 150mm cutting of pipe with a blank end, This is called a air cushion and prevents water hammer and the ball valve shutting off too quickly.

A professional would have done that and you wouldn't be panicking over your pipework! LOL

 

[andrew1]

Thanks mountainman, that is why i used the 3/4 valve, much bigger opening then a 1/2 valve.


System3 i all ready have a mini-resster installed off the flote valve, the only thing im panicking about is the use of speedfit pipe! i had read a lot of posts about speedfit blowing out of compression joints! and didnt want that happing up in my loft!, think im going to be on the safe side anyway now and take it out and re-do in copper, i have also found a bigger tank support wich may help with the movement im getting in the side of the tank from the float valve, i think its purely to do with the weight og the 3/4 float valve, anyhow think i may have it sorted now.

 

[stevetheplumber]

Thanks mountainman, that is why i used the 3/4 valve, much bigger opening then a 1/2 valve.


System3 i all ready have a mini-resster installed off the flote valve, the only thing im panicking about is the use of speedfit pipe! i had read a lot of posts about speedfit blowing out of compression joints! and didnt want that happing up in my loft!, think im going to be on the safe side anyway now and take it out and re-do in copper, i have also found a bigger tank support wich may help with the movement im getting in the side of the tank from the float valve, i think its purely to do with the weight og the 3/4 float valve, anyhow think i may have it sorted now.

it just needs more support get a bit of two by one cut a vee in the end and wedge under ballvalve tail screw other end to base board job done

 

[andrew1]

Cheers stevetheplumber, thats what i like to hear! how to just get the job done!, Will defo give that a go, it is that simple that it just needs more support just to stop the flexing as the ball valve rises up, cheers for advice, allways appreciated.

 

[Howsie]

You need to tee off at the ball valve and continue with a 150mm cutting of pipe with a blank end, This is called a air cushion and prevents water hammer and the ball valve shutting off too quickly.

A professional would have done that and you wouldn't be panicking over your pipework! LOL

No!!!

 

[Guest123]

The only failure I've had with plastic was a 22mm compression fitting on a plastic hot water supply pipe. It had the correct insert, was compressed properly using the recommended copper olive and lasted 2 weeks before being sent into orbit.

 

[Avatar]

Speedfit manufacturers instructions state you use a 'superseal' insert if using with compression fittings. I have used plenty with no problems . . .

Having said that those who have had them 'blow off' probably used the smooth regular inserts, that don't have the extra o rings to grip with.

There is nout wrong with speedfit, only the way that it is fit - better to use speedfit fittings however, and make sure it is clipped out well.

Copper is super expensive these days!

 

[PlumbBobBob]

someone said on here that they cut the end off of superseal inserts so that they fit deeper into compression fittings. i can't remember who it was though.

 

[andrew1]

Thanks everyone for all the advice, £22 and i got the blow tourch out and have now re done it all in copper 🙂 should have just done that in the first place, gess its just me but some how when done in copper and you solder the joints togther, it some how just seem a better job lol i feel better about it now 🙂

Cheers againg everyone