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10mm microbore drops down to the rad in question. Microbore behind 'dot and dab' plasterboard.
Could i force mains water up the return pipe via the bleed valve and 'hope' the blockage shifts?
 
067256
At the start of my troubles I took off the rad and attached a hose to the flow valve, connected to the outside tap ( but any mains tap will do ). Then I opened the valve and opened the outside tap. The mains pressure should force water into the pipework and hopefully shift the blockage.
I then repeated the process for the return valve.
BUT only run the mains for 5-10 seconds or it will back-fill the F + E tank ( you will know this because water will start coming out of the overflow!!! )
Also, it can be fiddly trying to attach a hose to the valves but worth persevering.
It might clear the blockage.
Good luck.
 
Pump switched off.
Closed both valves on rad and removed the rad in question. Opened flow valve and get a good flow of water.
Open lockshield valve and only a trickle, there is nothing wrong with the valve as i have actually tried it on another rad when i fitted a TRV.
I'm just convinced now that it is a blockage.

sounds like it mate, maybe force mains pressure back up
 
Microbore is well known for being soft and getting squashed easily. It is also prone to blockage being of narrow bore.
I wonder if there is a squashed bit behind the dot and dab?

Its like a garden hose being kinked. Water may well flow through, but will be unable to reach top flow rate.
 
Ok, so today i have traced as much of the pipework as possible by taking up floorboards etc....
i cannot find any kinks. squashed bits. It goes 22mm down to 15mm down again to 10mm for about the last 2 metres.
I have taken off the rad in question and connected a washing machine hose between the flow and return...opened both valves, turned on heating briefly to check and now i have a good flow and the washing machine pipe is getting hot!!!
Why dont i get this when i connect the rad back up???????????????????????????????????????????????
 
maybe a restriction in the radiator? take it outside and put your garden hose on it and flush it out
 
Ok, so today i have traced as much of the pipework as possible by taking up floorboards etc....
i cannot find any kinks. squashed bits. It goes 22mm down to 15mm down again to 10mm for about the last 2 metres.
I have taken off the rad in question and connected a washing machine hose between the flow and return...opened both valves, turned on heating briefly to check and now i have a good flow and the washing machine pipe is getting hot!!!
Why dont i get this when i connect the rad back up???????????????????????????????????????????????

take rad outside and flush it out
 
must be greater resistance, the system needs balancing

when rad off did you open both valves for split second to check they both run well?
 
its often not needed with powerful pumps and well designed systems, but when something like this happeneds its required
 
Stupid question.
Shall i open the valves and check for flow with the heating switched off?
Should i get a good flow of water from the flow and return??
 
Ok, so i now have taken off the washing machine hose and both valves are closed. HEATING TURNED OFF.
Open wheelshield(flow) lots of water coming out and good flow, no air spluttering. Close wheelshield.
Open Lockshield(return) bleed valve closed.........a trickle of water coming out.....constant but trickling, no air spluttering.
Opened bleed valve aswell...the same result
WHY IS THIS HAPPENING ON THE RETURN??????????
 
Ok, so i now have taken off the washing machine hose and both valves are closed. HEATING TURNED OFF.
Open wheelshield(flow) lots of water coming out and good flow, no air spluttering. Close wheelshield.
Open Lockshield(return) bleed valve closed.........a trickle of water coming out.....constant but trickling, no air spluttering.
Opened bleed valve aswell...the same result
WHY IS THIS HAPPENING ON THE RETURN??????????

have you tried valve open on return with rad off?
 
Valve open on return...water trickling out. There is no TRV, just a lockshield on return and wheel valve on flow.
 
Either mains pressure water to unblock it as Fuzzy says, or attach a footpump and give it a couple of jabs. Thats what usually works for me.
 
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Hi guys.
1 week and rads still working!
I think we've cracked it.
Thanks to everyone for their help, especially Fuzzy and Halesowen1, who have stuck with this from the start.
Great site and great help.
Once again, THANKS
 
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Hi guys.
1 week and rads still working!
I think we've cracked it.
Thanks to everyone for their help, especially Fuzzy and Halesowen1, who have stuck with this from the start.
Great site and great help.
Once again, THANKS

im made up, hope it stays working, well done
 
Hi guys.
1 week and rads still working!
I think we've cracked it.
Thanks to everyone for their help, especially Fuzzy and Halesowen1, who have stuck with this from the start.
Great site and great help.
Once again, THANKS

Thanks needs to go to OP for listening, describing the problem and doing as suggested, so many people come on here and don't do what we advice and then wonder why it isn't working.
 
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I have 1 cold rad in a downstairs cloakroom.
I have flushed it, tested the valves ( not trv ) and connected a hose from the o/side tap to each valve to blast any air-locks.
I have turned off all other rads and it still won't work.
I have replaced rad with a length of 15mm pipe and the pipe gets hot immediately! Put a new rad back on and it works for 2/3 days then fails.
If I draw 1/2 a bucket from the return pipe, hot water is drawn thru the flow pipe and the rad works for 2/3 days.
I know it could be a blockage, either air or sludge, but how come I can always draw hot water thru if I drain from the return pipe?
It seems as if there is something stopping the free flow thru the system which I can by-pass by encouraging the flow when draining.
I would be interested in advice as to what should be my next step.
Someone must have come across this before!!
Thanks

Let's go again!

500 posts before xmas :santa1:
 
i have a radiator in the dining room that never gets warm???

i think its because i disconnected 2 years ago and have never been bothered to reconnect it, but im not sure 🙂
 
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Can you not fit wireless radiator valves? Surely that would do the trick.

funny you say that, i once got into a argument with a council tennant because after id fitted his new radiators i wanted to run pipework to them and he insisted that he wanted infra red radiators and no pipework 🙁

he never managed to tell me where you get infra red water from LOL.
 
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Don't mind me while I bump some threads in the plumbing forum category. This thread might not be a current topic, if it isn't, just let it drop off the list.

If you DO want to reply to it, go ahead, that's fine. Your post might add some value to the thread and help newer members in the future.
 
Don't mind me while I reply to a few of the threads. We need the new thread pages to be picked up correctly. If this thread isn't current, just visit the plumbing forum and post your own new thread or checkout the other existing threads.
 

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