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Change a torbeck valve:

Less than 5 mins once infront if wc with tools and isolation valve present.

My gas man called me( he has a very bad back)

He was changing one for his neighbour but was struggling to get access.

Turned out that the cistern sat so the torbeck nut was hidden and wing nuts were rusted.

Turned into a job for the angle grinder. Disconnect bog. Flip it. Cut close couple kit. Change valve. Drive to dumbfix for a new close couple kit as didn't have one on van.

Reconnect pan. Job done.
Can't remember how long it took altogether but it wa daft.

I've been in and out in 20 mins changing one. That includes getting tools/wet vac in and out and collecting 50 quid when ya pass go etc

There is a lesson to be learnt here, oh yes found it. Jobs that you think are small can more often than not bite you in the arse....... Is my understanding right Kyle?
 
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Ok let's try rewording it then rather than say use mdpe pipe. What pipe should I be using and what fittings do I need for copper pipe that I need to go from.

Still can't understand why someone won't give me simple answers rather than saying get someone in etc. if I wanted water leaking in my loft I'd make sure it wasn't a water tight fit. Easy enough to check and test on trial peace out of loft, if I can't get it right out of the loft I'm in trouble simple.

Still can't see why mdpe pipe can't be used though as long is its all water tight and done correctly!

Having a pipe lagged or not down the rear face of your house exposing it to the elements risks freezing and failure of the pipe.
MDPE is UV unstable, meaning when exposed to UV light eg sun light, it breaks down and weakens.
If it leaks over winter and is pouring out more water than niagra falls over the frozen patio, youre going to have to scramble up stairs whip out the loft ladder, waking up baby in process ( have a child of my own, she is a light sleeper, so i can vouch for a scenario like this) scrambling around in loft to find that damned iso valve, when its covered in attic junk, i also have an attic full of junk well you get the picture.


No despite the bother, i would lift up some floor boards, and drop it in much further down, thereby reducing the overall length of pipe, and i would keep a full bore lever iso valve in the airing cupboard so if i need to shut it off i can do so quickly and efficiently.

preferably i would aim to take the feed from the kitchen but i gather you may have concrete floors, so there be no floorboards to lift.
 
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