Sorry, I didn’t read it as the boiler had been rebuilt some time before the builder had worked on the system.
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- Thread starter windle poones
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Sorry, I didn’t read it as the boiler had been rebuilt some time before the builder had worked on the system.
It’s generally not looked on favourably by the small claims court if you’ve refused to give a contractor fair chance to put right what may be an honest mistake.
Neither the pipework nor electrical work is notifiable under building regulations so not sure how you’d prove the guy wasn’t competent.
Again I was referring to whether or not the builder had acted unlawfully in terms of working on the boiler. They don’t get a second chance there
A 30s google search turned up the manual for your boiler, in section 1.6 it clearly stares the diverter valve must be open to fill the boiler. See attached image.
Doesn’t sound like your builders sub contractor has done anything wrong here.
Doesn’t sound like your builders sub contractor has done anything wrong here.
W
Welder
My Ideal Mexico is of 1997 vintage 😎
On a sep note, efficiency ratings as specified by all manufacturers are ONLY seen by a VERY small number of UK home owners.
Why?
The efficiencies are calculated at a flow temp of 50 degrees C and a return of 30 degs C. However, most UK home owners would claim the system is faulty at such low flow temps so new (efficient boilers) are commissioned to run at a flow of 70 & (at best) a return of 50. This delivers just a few % of potential and rarely (if ever) pays back the investment.
How do you achieve that then?
Increase the resonance time/reduce flow rate through radiators?
Surprising in this day and age of smart TRVs there not measuring flow/return temp.
W
Welder
W
Welder
If you read the manual it says the diverter valve needs to be be open to fill. There doesn't appear to be anything wrong with the work tats been done.
If the cold water feed to the filler loop is boiler side of the new valves you should be able to pressurise the system. It's unclear what's where from the pictures. It needs a sketch of the pipework with valve positions. If you turn a tap into you get hot water? Too much guesswork without a diagram.
The manual for the boiler clearly says the the diverter valve needs to be open to fill.
Get someone out to check it?
No point any of us guessing as by the sounds of it you shouldn’t be touching it anyway.
Regardless looking at your pictures you don’t have a bypass for when both zones are closed. Who knows if you’ve got a non return anywhere on the system.
You’ve also got a combi so hot water demand isn’t with the zone valve.
You’ll need a professional to diagnose on site it in my opinion.
No point any of us guessing as by the sounds of it you shouldn’t be touching it anyway.
Regardless looking at your pictures you don’t have a bypass for when both zones are closed. Who knows if you’ve got a non return anywhere on the system.
You’ve also got a combi so hot water demand isn’t with the zone valve.
You’ll need a professional to diagnose on site it in my opinion.
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