Honeywell Valve Not Working

[Harvest Fields]

Holding the valve in the MAN position will not fire the boiler but your water will get hot when your heating is on.

I know mate. That’s why I posted what I did earlier in the post

 

[Harvest Fields]

It will fire the boiler / it should

I’ve had some Honeywell’s that don’t mate. Not when they are Fu***d

 

[heatservice]

The MAN position doesn't trigger the switch, the motor has to power it fully open for that to happen.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

The MAN position doesn't trigger the switch, the motor has to power it fully open for that to happen.

That's stupid Draytons do that's the point of manual on the valves

 

[heatservice]

The reason for the MAN position to to aid filling a venting the system.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

The reason for the MAN position to to aid filling a venting the system.

Take the heads off for that

 

[heatservice]

Take the heads off for that

Its much easier to put the lever in MAN than taking the actuator off surely.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Its much easier to put the lever in MAN than taking the actuator off surely.

Don't know about Honeywells but Drayton one push there off take less than a couple if seconds

 

[pufferfish91]

Do you have any hot water at all or does it run cold ?

The hot water works when I manually open the valve but not when it is in the auto position. Thanks.

 

[pufferfish91]

Don't know about Honeywells but Drayton one push there off take less than a couple if seconds[/QUOT

Holding the valve in the MAN position will not fire the boiler but your water will get hot when your heating is on.

This is the only way I can get hot water - when the valve is in the manual position. The problem is, it obviously switches the heating on as well. I would like the water/heat to work independently but I can't get the hot water to work in the auto position. I can hear a clicking sound from the Nest control box but the valve does nothing.

 

[heatservice]

This is the only way I can get hot water - when the valve is in the manual position. The problem is, it obviously switches the heating on as well. I would like the water/heat to work independently but I can't get the hot water to work in the auto position. I can hear a clicking sound from the Nest control box but the valve does nothing.

If your electrican confirmed that 240v is going to the motor but the valve is not driving open then you can change the complete actuator without having to drain down.

 

[S.P.S.]

I’m not being funny, as had been previously mentioned. A heating eng or electrician (who actually knows central heating wiring....) should be able to give you a definitive answer in less than 5 minutes.... I know you know and trust your electrician dearly, but if they do not understand central heating wiring, or have much experience working on, then how do they know what to test for? That doesn’t have any bearing on them as an electrician, this is control wiring, electricians I know, trust dearly and work with on projects week in week out, don’t like to touch control wiring...!

Something is either not wired right, or is not functioning correctly, both of which will be very evident when checked...

Stu

 

[Chalked]

Don't know about Honeywells but Drayton one push there off take less than a couple if seconds

Honeywell valves don't operate the end switch in manual mode Shaun. It needs the motor to get the extra distance. ( or a conveniently placed screwdriver.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Honeywell valves don't operate the end switch in manual mode Shaun. It needs the motor to get the extra distance. ( or a conveniently placed screwdriver.

ta will remember the hack 😀

 

[firemant]

This is the only way I can get hot water - when the valve is in the manual position. The problem is, it obviously switches the heating on as well. I would like the water/heat to work independently but I can't get the hot water to work in the auto position. I can hear a clicking sound from the Nest control box but the valve does nothing.

GM, you have got completely the wrong idea ref the valve operation. So does, it seems,your Sparks and your plumber.
The valve motor will turn when energised. It will close the m/switch, which (being permanently at 240V) sends the power to the boiler. Manually opening WILL NOT close the MS, but leaves the valve open. When your heating is fired, the HW will get hot. I assume that is what is actually happening.

As has been said, it is basic. I guarantee that I would find the fault inside 5 minutes. I cannot see where you have confirmed there is 240V at the valve motor. Is there 240V at the MS? If there is 240V at the MS, has this been tested across L&N?

 

[heatservice]

Please let us know the outcome thanks

 

[firemant]

I cannot see where you have confirmed there is 240V at the valve motor. Is there 240V at the MS?

Just noticed that I did not write the above correctly. One cannot edit the posts, so

I meant to say:
If there is 240V at the MOTOR, has this been tested across L&N? (as opposed to a neon screwdriver etc

Is the motor driving, when energised, at all

 

[pufferfish91]

L&N

Hi,

Sorry for the delay. I've checked this myself and can confirm that the valve is receiving 240v. So either it's a fault with the motor, or it isn't wired properly, so won't operate. I took a picture of the Nest box and it looks a little strange. As you can see from the picture below, I have drawn a red circle around numbers 4 and 5. Although there is cables connected to this, there is nothing connected at the other end in the junction box. There is a brown wire sort of hanging but not connected to anything. I can take a few more pics if it helps. Thanks!

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Wired wrong

4 is no heat/no call best get it wired by a pro

 

[Harvest Fields]

6 is call for heat for hot water