Hot water cylinder replacement

[brian_mk]

I need to replace a leaking hot water cyclinder.
So far I've contacted about 4 plumbers but none have got back to me, so I'm considering tackling the job myself.



I have bought a drop in replacement cylinder with connections in the exact same positions.
I'm hoping to re-use the existing immersion heater as it has never actually been used.

My question is...

Will there be enough 'give' in the pipework to allow me to remove the old cylinder without cutting pipes?
As far as I can see, it means lifting the hot water outlet pipe up by about 1" to pull it out of the compression fitting to allow the cylinder to be slid to the right to remove the pipes to the coil. The horizontal 22mm section of pipe is about 20" long and the fittings are soldered.

The cold feed to the right has a conex conector at the top of the photo just below a gate valve.
You can't easily get to the elbow fitting at the bottom right of the cyclinder.
I'm hoping there will be enough give in the pipework to pull the cold feed pipe down and out of the compression fitting.

 

[erpkid]

Meaning what precisely?

Probably better in the arms. However we do swing from being incredibly helpful to less than at times - I know this is old ground. Hardly surprising as most here make their living from plumbing. Understandably we are occasionally in two minds with certain opening posts.

 

[Ermintrude]

Certification is a load of tosh, more eurocrat nonsense. It just pushes incompetence further under radar.

Idiots don't pay any attention and never get stopped. Gas safe is so badly policed g3 may aswell be gummy bears.

 

[mountainman]

Certification is a load of tosh, more eurocrat nonsense. It just pushes incompetence further under radar.

Idiots don't pay any attention and never get stopped. Gas safe is so badly policed g3 may aswell be gummy bears.

Fair comment!

 

[AWheating]

go for it, let us know how you get on.

 

[stevetheplumber]

What an unhelpful bunch we are these days. Go for it! Ont touch the gate valve. Just drain the tank as well. There will be enough movement in the hot pipe, disconnect the compression coupling on the cold feed. Don't forget to drain the heating and add inhibitor. Treat yourself to a new immersion heater.

i agree app which is why i rarely post on here now days everyone want to quote various rules and regs and taking the pee out of anyone who wants to have a go

 

[stevetheplumber]

i would just drain everything and while its out change the gate valve for a lever type valve
the drain of might not work so drain as much as you can take the top connector out put the hose in and syphon the water out if your hose doesnt fit through the hole use a couple of feet of 15mm tube and connect the hose to that
disconnect the cold feed at the valve and the two primary connections then you can slide the cylinder out or spin it to get at the bottom connection
as said i would get a new imersion as much as anything it saves you struggling to get the old one out
if you realy want to reuse it loosen it before you drain system as the water will hold the cylinder more rigid

 

[brian_mk]

i had a call today fm a disgruntled diyer who had sheared off his cold feed gate valve on his cyl. At 5 30pm he didnt get why any of the plumbers he called werent interested in fitting a new one NOW!. his comment of I know what I am doing, having admitted he kept turning the siezed valve till it freewheeled !, he expected us all to be sat in our chairs waiting for his call, and when I said mondayt pm at the earliest he flipped, so down went my phone. sorry ap some members of the public horde just dont get it.

The gate valve is ok - I check them all once or twice a year to make sure they don't seize.
However, if I do the job myself, I will probably drain the cold tank just in case the valve doesn't close off completely.
The tank probably needs a clean out in any case.

 

[brian_mk]

The only problem you will have is that the new cylinder will have thicker insulation so you will have to shorten some of the pipework. If you are going to DIY get a stainless cylinder with welded unions. Less chance of damage when you tighten up the compressions fitting to the irons..as there aren't any.

Sorry, but that doesn't make any sense...

The dimensions for a standard 900mm x 450mm copper cylinder are measured WITHOUT the insulation. So even if the replacement cylinder had thicker insulation, the pipework would not have to be shortened as you suggest. In fact, the replacement copper cylinder I have already bought has the same foam thickness as the existing one.

 

[SimonG]

I love threads like this. Does anybody think for one minute that the op will come back and say that his ceiling came down as it all went pear shaped?

To the op, you have enough info to give it a go, and good luck, but, if it does go pear shaped 'who ya gonna call' 🙂

 

[Killy Bing]

Sorry, but that doesn't make any sense...

The dimensions for a standard 900mm x 450mm copper cylinder are measured WITHOUT the insulation. So even if the replacement cylinder had thicker insulation, the pipework would not have to be shortened as you suggest. In fact, the replacement copper cylinder I have already bought has the same foam thickness as the existing one.

Erp said that due to the side oft he cylinder touching the wall.
we don't know the age of the cylinder, we automaticly assume its rather old with little foam.
obviously its a more recent one.

and how do we know what thickness the foam is on your replacement?

it wasn't suggested, you're being advised you might have to do it.

he outlined a possible problem, be greatful

 

[brian_mk]

I love threads like this. Does anybody think for one minute that the op will come back and say that his ceiling came down as it all went pear shaped?

To the op, you have enough info to give it a go, and good luck, but, if it does go pear shaped 'who ya gonna call' 🙂

That's what worries me. I'd rather get someone else to do it, but good plumbers are like rocking horse poo.

 

[Killy Bing]

No swearing!

where are you based, plenty on this forum.

 

[SimonG]

That's what worries me. I'd rather get someone else to do it, but good plumbers are like rocking horse sh*t.

I know exactly where you are coming from. The number of times that people are surprised that you return a call or turn up on time to look at a job. Annoys me a little that people can't return calls, but that's a different thread. Can't get a recommendation from friends, relatives, colleagues or neighbours?

 

[tamz]

Erp said that due to the side oft he cylinder touching the wall.
we don't know the age of the cylinder, we automaticly assume its rather old with little foam.
obviously its a more recent one.

and how do we know what thickness the foam is on your replacement?

it wasn't suggested, you're being advised you might have to do it.

he outlined a possible problem, be greatful

Have you never had to take the saw to the insulation to get it in the space ?
It is easily shaved.

 

[Killy Bing]

Have you never had to take the saw to the insulation to get it in the space ?
It is easily shaved.

Of course but thats the only thing i can think of erp mentioning it.

 

[Dotty]

Brian, going by your name I reckon you're Milton Keynes way.

Apologies if your confidence has taken a knock. Wasn't intended.

Follow Steve's advice. I would use all new fittings when you dress the cylinder too.

But if you are getting a squeaky bum then you might want someone off here to do it for you.

post a thread in the 'I'm looking for a plumber / gas engineer' section of these forums remembering to include your location - [DLMURL="http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/im-looking-plumber-gas-engineer/"]I'm looking for a Plumber or Gas Engineer[/DLMURL]

 

[happyflyer]

For God sack first take out those stupid bearers under the cylinder and replace it with two pieces of heavy ply that cover the whole base, lets get the stresses right on the rolled bottom edge of the cylinder. Now the chances of getting a replacement cylinder where the connection are 100% spot on is remote, the new cylinder may look and appear to measure up ok, if the new one is out on one connection slightly it may well push the rest out. This guy needs to know this, if any connections are out pulling the pipe even 1/2" may cause him leaks he can't tighten up, and no amount of PTFE will stop it leaking, the DOC Drain off cock like someone has already said is destine to fail, I would change the 22 mm connex connector for a gate valve and you may have two them but what the hell. If things don't line up he will be into soldering, if he is in a hard water area like someone say he might well rip off a union, yet again we don't know where he lives and member might live around the corner and would no doubt have it out and filled up in 60 mins, you could charge half a day and be in the pub by 12. :sweatdrop:

 

[lame plumber]

funny Iwas taught to use bearers under a cyl to allow for air flow and prevent condensation etc so the base doesnt corrode out. different methods for all around the country. why else do unvented cyls have nice little legs on them

 

[happyflyer]

funny Iwas taught to use bearers under a cyl to allow for air flow and prevent condensation etc so the base doesnt corrode out. different methods for all around the country. why else do unvented cyls have nice little legs on them

Not for that reason lame, the bottom of the SS vessel is convex to take the pressure and it needs the legs to stop it rolling over like a doll in a budgies cage.

 

[lame plumber]

still I always use bearers under copper cyls as taught by blokes with grey hair and only use ply under cwsc as per the regs.