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The plumber who piped the Y plan is going to disconnect the cylinder and put a hose through it and also cut flow and return and put water through boiler to see if either is blocked
 
Try running a magnet over the pipework near the pump, if it sticks then theres a good chance theres a blockage. Prime candidate is where the cold feed from the F & E enters the syatem or neutral point as its more commonly known.
 
When He disconnected the cylinder there was a little amount of scale and brown water.The coil was flushed through with fresh water until clear.He fitted a vent after the 3 way valve .Only the rads upstairs are getting hot .I have had a climpro fitted .The tap water is set for 55 degrees but I have noticed the boiler is reaching temp of 95 degrees.He disconnected some rad pipes in the cellar and there was a lot of what I think was scale .He has said I might have to change the TRV's.only the rads upstairs are getting warm.
 
Try running a magnet over the pipework near the pump, if it sticks then theres a good chance theres a blockage. Prime candidate is where the cold feed from the F & E enters the syatem or neutral point as its more commonly known.

its so so common
 
When He disconnected the cylinder there was a little amount of scale and brown water.The coil was flushed through with fresh water until clear.He fitted a vent after the 3 way valve .Only the rads upstairs are getting hot .I have had a climpro fitted .The tap water is set for 55 degrees but I have noticed the boiler is reaching temp of 95 degrees.He disconnected some rad pipes in the cellar and there was a lot of what I think was scale .He has said I might have to change the TRV's.only the rads upstairs are getting warm.

any thoughts on this?
 
I cant believe this has not been sorted yet either

I agree that it is not good practice to combine a single pipe system with a two pipe system even so you still expect some sort circulation. The fact that your boiler is getting up to 95 degrees is not good for the boiler so I would suggest that you should turn it down so it reaches a maximum temp of 60 degrees the fault is not on the boiler its on the system.

My suggestion for discovering what the fault is with the system is to purchase a lazer thermometer and follow the route of all the pipwork the best you can to find where the system stops circulating, so far you have spent a lot of time and money altering pipework and getting nowhere. I feel its time to go back to basics
 
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mate winter is knocking on everyone's front door ! get it sort it before x mas at least ,there is gys from here who will come and will sort it out with no time
 
Yes this is aworry if it's anything like last year.The plumber who has been working on it is gas safe but even he is scratching his head.:confused5:
 
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Can anyone recommend a good Lazer thermometer.Do they have a range of eg a meter incase I cant get close to the pipes.
 
[DLMURL="http://www.reginproducts.co.uk/thermometers/REGTN2"]REGTN2 - Infra Red Thermometer | Regin[/DLMURL]
 
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The plumber plans to take all rads off and flush through with hose.He also thinks the TRV's might be clogged up.If they are can they be serviced or are they scrap? they are Drayton TRV4.
 
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I had one done a few weeks ago but the plumber who's working for me wasnt impressed with the pump and still thinks there is a blockage.The hall rad and front rm rad pipes can be accessed from cellar and he disconnected the hall rad pipe which has a gate valve on and there was quite a lot of rust and bits came out.I have new TRV's and lockshield valves but I dont want them fitted until I know the sludge/rust has been cleared.
 
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are you sure that you have a 2 pipe system ? New boilers do-not like 1 pipe systems as they heat up to fast so make sure that you have got a 2 pipe system. What about pipe size ? if bulk of heating is on 15mm this will cause problems, you also say that you have scale in system, if so just flushing with a hose pipe will-not remove scale, needs a proper power flush with de-scaling chemical, I worked in Thames valley area for 20 years and scale was a major problem, glad I moved back to Devon (Soft Water) From reading through your problems it seems that your Local Plumbers have little knowlage of how new systems work , maybe I will move back up north ! could earn a fortune putting things right, Good Luck with your quest.
 
After speaking to the plumber he said that what came out when he disconnected the pipe was rust.
 
Hi if its a rust problem you are better off getting a proper powerflush and replaceing all of radiator valves when this has been done it would be a good idea to fit some sort of megnetic filter to the system , New boilers do-not like dirty systems, its possable that you now have rust particles in the heat exchanger of the boiler causeing overheat faults,
if the system has been like this since the new boiler was fitted, can you not get the plumber back who first fitted it to combe back and get it working ? again check the pipe size on the system . If you are showing a F22 fault its eather lack of water or a pump fault, looking at photo of pump looks like cheep type , if large system is pump the right size ? may need to fit a 15/60. Look in your installation / servicing book it will give you fault codes (take it you got left with this information) Sorry but with-out seeing the system alot of information is only a shot in the dark.
 

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