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Ah that's a shame. Oh well if im.takibg the thing off I may as well replace it! I've found a you tube video explaining how to replace, but I'm guessing I'l need to drain the system down as I can't find the isolation valves to the pump itself.
 
That's it, I would say pump but without checking the voltage to the pump can't be 1000% sure

Can I suggest before ripping it out disconnect the pump supply and put it on a plug and extension lead to try it. it wouldn't be the first time I've found dodgy switch contacts meaning the pump isn't getting voltage.
 
Can I suggest before ripping it out disconnect the pump supply and put it on a plug and extension lead to try it. it wouldn't be the first time I've found dodgy switch contacts meaning the pump isn't getting voltage.

But then the display wouldn't light up ?

And op your best having a few plumbers quote
 
But then the display wouldn't light up ?

And op your best having a few plumbers quote

Basic version: dodgy contacts can cause high resistance. When the pump is off load the voltage is high enough to run the display. When the pump load increases the resistance causes the voltage to drop. LED displays don't need much to run but motors do, hence the 'fault'.
 
Thems the buggers
pump valves.jpg
 
Did you check and make sure the system has enough water in it before you rip anything out or a fill valve needs to be turned on system might be just going dry not enough water in it and the boiler will keep going to lock out
 
Just call your local plumber in I,d say it just needs to be filled and tested maybe a bit of balancing to be done nothing major get to have a look at the old leak on the trv pipework as well I recommend
 
Whoever wired the pump didn't do a very good job. Might be worth unplugging and checking the connections are tight.

What speed is the pump on? If it's on Autoadapt, try each of the fixed speeds in turn to see what effect it has.
 

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